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Honestly I've never seen totally destroyed wheel bearings. Sure some pitting, but that was due to years worth of neglect on trailer bearings. Either way, I need new parts and start over. Something that I'll have to pull and check each Winter.
My Drive flange came from RCV and I believe it's an 80 front drive flange. Kurt will hook you up with Marlin seals.
Ron, no one doesI believe the only parts I need from them is their drive flange and inner axle seals. I know a bearing and seal company in St. Louis, so I'll try to get the seals there. I think the axles shafts can come RVC direct, but without a good shaft to measure from, I'm not sure. I did ask Front Range that question. All the other parts are stock FJ60 and 4runner brake parts. I do like the Diamond housing and what Front Runner has put together, but when they went to just email costumer service went down. I like to talk to people about problems. Even my kids don't want to talk anymore, they text.
. Talking is becoming an Art Form! Feel like Smashing my phone sometimes 
Is when they welded it.
3/8 dom which is very Stout. My questions would be 1 @J Mack said after welding and 2 what material thickness was used on the housing itself, and what material and heat control is done during weld and assembly?? So you have Stout axle tubes and from what I see as a weak link is the fabbed diff housing, with the excessive heat during welding causing a an issue with material integrity .
and were the housing meets the axle tubes if they didnt bevel the material it would compromise the penetration. I would ask for C of Cs on the materials both housing and axle tubes and ask for weld coupons that that were submitted and passed by a metallurgist . If they are not willing, I would shop elsewhere. Ya ima bitch. But I dont like friends getting Screwed 
Kind of my thoughts as well, along the same line as not wheeling it hard enough to break an axle shaft. Not saying there couldn’t be some misalignment somewhere, because I’m still not getting why the axle shaft broke in the first place. That axle was doing what it was designed to do, basically the whole point of even having a full-floater. If the housing was bent, I would think we’d have seen a carrier bearing fail before the axle broke, not to mention there would be a noticeable difficulty getting the axle flange to line up with the hub studs.Scrapdaddy isn't going to bend one. The only possible way it's bent is from the factory in my opinion.
9.5" Diamond Axle housing Builder style
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Let me reword this! I want to remove SCREWED! If this was my company and rely entirely on my my word and the strength of my product, I would personally investigate this myself to ensure that my housing was'nt bent or improperly set in the fixture and welded incorrectly(seen it a million times.) Or a worn out fixture. I would KISS
the customers s Arse until they would be satisfied. Thats how small businesses survive. Brain hurts 
Most of the big guys will use a weld fixture, it’s what they do after welding that separates them. We can all agree that it's not possible to weld something like a spring perch on one side of a tube and not warp it to some degree. Pre heat and post heat along with a stout fixture will all help minimize but you should always check for straightness after it’s removed from the fixture and the pro shops that I know of will all do that.
