Builds SLOW 71 (5 Viewers)

[J Mack]

Not sure where this came from but it was on my cell phone when I was cleaning out some files..

 

[bobm]

Cool

 

[PabloCruise]

Not sure where this came from but it was on my cell phone when I was cleaning out some files..

Nice!

You had to get the guy with the shorts in there, didn't you?

 

[scrapdaddy]

That was so much fun ( better if I didn't have to work on it! ). We look forward to next year with you guys.

Thanks for posting that, I'll show Jeri.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I took the rear spring packs in to get more leaves and found the spring perches have fallen victim to my over zealous tightening to cure the SNS ( stretchy nut syndrome ). So, now I need some opinions before pulling the axle housing out, cutting off the old perches and welding on new. Any better ideas? Heat and bend back, etc.

Sorry for the dirt, some of Utah's finest.

 

[bobm]

Replace them while it's out. You righty or lefty, like to see that arm . Need to change your name to Johnny Overtorque .

 

[scrapdaddy]

I blame J Mack, he lent me his extra long ratchet. Real problem was those damn shims. They were just a tad smaller than the perch. You can see the imprint in the perch.

You're right, cut them off and start over.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Careful when you weld in the new ones... It's amazing how much the housing bows with the heat from a good solid weld...

Having been down the road of welding in new perches, and developing a bow that ate the axle bearings, I'd weld new perches in and straighten the housing.

 

[J Mack]

IMHO welding on a factory housing without warping it to some degree would be nearly impossible, you can do some pre and post heating to minimize but then you cook the oil on the inside creating other issues.

I would repair the existing perch with minimal heat and reinstall this rear end, if I remember correctly you were telling me that you wanted to build a full float rear and that would be the time to address all the issues at the same time with a fresh housing.

Good luck!!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Exactly. If you guys think it will warp, then I'm not going through all that to just replace it later with the FF. At the least, I should try to heat and bend back first before cutting off.

Hey J Mack, first thing I did after Moab was buy a long handle ratchet like yours, really like that thing!

 

[J Mack]

If both sides are warped I would heat them and try to straighten them trying my best to keep the housing reasonably cool. If you can’t get them as straight (flat) as you want weld a ¼” plate to the bottoms trying to keep the plates as level as possible and run it until you get time to build your new FF rear.

That’s my fourth long handle ratchet, MAC keeps replacing them after I blow them apart using a long pipe cheater, the most used ½” drive ratchet in my box…

 

[PabloCruise]

I took the rear spring packs in to get more leaves and found the spring perches have fallen victim to my over zealous tightening to cure the SNS ( stretchy nut syndrome ). So, now I need some opinions before pulling the axle housing out, cutting off the old perches and welding on new. Any better ideas? Heat and bend back, etc.

Sorry for the dirt, some of Utah's finest.

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View attachment 1293648

Did you eat your spinach before you went at it?!?

We are going to have to start calling you Sir!

"All the downtown ladies call him 'Treetop Lover', all the men just call him 'Sir'"

 

[scrapdaddy]

Yeah, I got a little carried away! Just received my new 5/8 u bolts, no more stretchy nuts.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Just got through the whole thread after many evenings, great read, thanks for documenting the good (and not so) mods for the rest of us.

Question on what rear axle with disks you are planning on? I'm putting 60/62 axles under my '74 55 but haven't found a rear disk setup I like yet, currently I'm thinking to adapt '03 + newer gen 4Runner rear disks to the 60 axle...love to hear your plans.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks for going through all that. To be honest, I haven't started looking deep into it yet, but there a several companies making axles and adapters to turn my axle into a FF with discs. Axle Flange, Rear, Toyota, Full Float Looks to be a good one.

 

[J Mack]

I'm putting 60/62 axles under my '74 55 but haven't found a rear disk setup I like yet,

if you keep your 55 axle and use the Frontrange bolt on kit it would give you a wider disk setup without all the hassle of a weld on kit.

FJ40 Full-Floater Conversion Kit

 

[scrapdaddy]

Would it be easier for me to source a FF 60 axle from Canada and just convert to disc brakes? I'll be using the aftermarket axle shafts ( RVC ), also.

 

[J Mack]

Ron,

I don't know enough about all the different Toyota rear ends to have an educated opinion, will a Canadian FF 60 axle bolt right into your 55 without moving mounting pads?
The front range bolt on FF/Disk kit gives you the option from as little as 1/2" to as much as 3.75" wider than stock, if you start with a factory 55 rear housing you could make it 60 width without all the welding on your housing so I guess it all comes down to cost and ability to straighten the housing after all the welding is completed.

 

[NookShneer]

@xtiaan2000. What I was talking about. ^

 

[scrapdaddy]

I already have 60 axles on it, so don't have to move the hangers. I need to do a lot more reading!