Builds SLOW 71 (1 Viewer)

[bobm]

Needs another Wing

 

[RUSH55]

Needs another Wing

GlampingHD@mudhen.com

 

[riderjgs]

Not feeling quite so bad now about our latest rooftop tent with a king size bed, thicker mattress and push button open and close.

 

[scrapdaddy]

push button open and close.

That certainly beats watching you climb around on top of that old one trying to zip it shut.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Needs another Wing

Any more wings and it will be able to fly.

 

[riderjgs]

That certainly beats watching you climb around on top of that old one trying to zip it shut.

Back at the gym doing "Hunter Boot Camp." Soon be able to leap tall rooftop tents in a single bound but old age does demand some adjustments. Won't have the new one mounted for a bit. It came off a Conqueror off-road trailer from Australia and didn't have the typical mounting arrangement. Found the channels from Thule/Tepui but the hardware, specifically the little sliders that go inside the channel, are backordered, now until January! Headed to NM week after next for some time with our son so it'll be the last trip with the old tent.
Enjoy SSS2021. Shouldn't be any problem staying dry with that awning setup. Looks like room for all of us when we go to Alaska!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Started working through my "to do" list for this season and first up is I'm going back to the original clutch master. When mating a chevy motor to a toyota clutch system you can have some problems shifting because the throw of the toyota master/slave is a hair too short. Adjusting everything out and adding to the slave rod, etc. doesn't work totally. Mine shifts fine for most situations, but in the heat of rocking back and forth on a rock for example, sometimes it grinds going into reverse. So, I've read where a couple guys went with a single circuit BRAKE master instead of the clutch master in order to get that extra bit of travel. I tried it last year and while it worked great, the pedal was extremely hard to push all in and at sometime this Winter either the master or the slave hung up and held everything in, so back to the original. I'm replacing the slave with a new one due to some scarring and deteriorated seals.

Jim Downey sells his own clutch just for this problem, which If I remember right I used back in the eighties on my 40 with the 327 in it. Some of you might not even notice this problem with yours, more hit or miss. I think maybe the added horsepower of these newer chevys have added to the problem.

Anyway, I sent off the FJ80 steering box to Redhead getting rebuilt and maybe upgrading to 80 tie rod ends. I'm already using DOM tubing for the relay and tie rod, but would like to get rid of some of those 60 rod ends. More to come later...

Top one is the brake and bottom is the clutch, you can see the extra length and taller reservoir...

 

[wngrog]

I’ve been converting later 60 non adjustable slave cylinders to the early adjustable ones on all my swaps. I can’t stand those little short throw slaves in a single fixed spot and no return spring.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Yeah, my slave rod is adjustable, but you can only go so far without losing your endplay. You don't want any pressure on the clutch fingers.

 

[riderjgs]

Also having minor issues with the clutch between my 350 and the Toyota 4 speed. Adjustment is very tricky, otherwise there's a rattling sound either while idling or while under power that can only be silenced by some light pressure on the clutch pedal. Ideas?

 

[wngrog]

Also having minor issues with the clutch between my 350 and the Toyota 4 speed. Adjustment is very tricky, otherwise there's a rattling sound either while idling or while under power that can only be silenced by some light pressure on the clutch pedal. Ideas?

That’s your TO bearing hitting the fingers of clutch most likely.

 

[riderjgs]

That’s your TO bearing hitting the fingers of clutch most likely.

Suggested fix?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Jim, I agree with wngrog, have you tried adjusting the slave rod back a tad. You don't want any pressure on the clutch fingers because that will wear out your throwout bearing. Sounds like you might have the bearing too close and it's rattling. Maybe back the rod off some and try running and shifting it, see how it does.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Jim, I was just thinking you might have one of the wire clips come off that hold the throwout bearing to the clutch arm. If one of those clips popped out maybe the bearing would rattle until you put pressure on it, just a thought. Take off the inspection cover and take a look.

 

[wngrog]

Take a pic of yours. Does it have a return spring?

 

[PabloCruise]

I’ve been converting later 60 non adjustable slave cylinders to the early adjustable ones on all my swaps. I can’t stand those little short throw slaves in a single fixed spot and no return spring.

P/N, or application for the adjustable?

 

[wngrog]

P/N, or application for the adjustable?

1984 FJ60. Make a bracket of flat stock. Added a spring later to the later arm using a hose clamp since it does not have a tab on the end

 

[scrapdaddy]

P/N, or application for the adjustable?

Pablo, I'm thinking he's just talking about a stock 55 slave. Mine is a stock for an early one, but I think the later pigs are the same. The rod can adjust for length.

 

[PabloCruise]

Heh heh, I will spare everyone the obligatory quote…

 

[scrapdaddy]

The rod can adjust for length.

There you go! I didn't see that until you mentioned it.