Builds Skips FJ 35 BUILD (1 Viewer)

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Looks like that will work well. The 45 cab has a lip on the inside of the lower tub where the top meets the tub.

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TNX for the pic Mike, the inside of mine will also have a lip similar to yours it gives it a little more finish as well as keeps the moisture out. Making progress inch by inch.
 
Working on the drip rail, all welded together and working the edge with the dolly and hammer think it will be good, a little media blast on the corners paint and good to go. next will start fitting the top fiberglass pieces. Just got some clecos from my friend Ron today TNX bud, so the work goes on, measure many times and cut once no mistakes allowed.

drip rail.jpg
 
that's what I need for mine. not sure my skills are up to hand making one like that, but I may give it a shot. that looks very good.
 
I took a 40 drip rail off a stock top and cut it down to fit taking the parts out to make it fit, see previous pics. Next step is to match the 40 fiberglass to the drip rail. Right at the B pillar is where it flows, cutting the back and putting it back together. I Took aprox 36" out of 40 top if you are curious.
 
Ahhh, I see. I can't find a top around here yet. still looking. :D
 
As you can see I have been working on the top. Re mounted it to the drip rail then cut to fit as we say with metal butt welding but the same principal with the Fiberglas. When I started this I was not aware that the top was not solid but had a foam center. A thin layer of cloth on both sides with a 1/4" foam center which is fine. I tapered the cut area back about two inches so I can glass back and fill in the void and create a strong repair and ultimately have it stronger than the rest of the top. Also I will be adding cloth to the underside for strength and resin to smooth it also as it will require very little time and material to make it ready for the next step. Not sure what I will use for the headliner have read some of others decisions, would like to hear from you about your travels with how you did your headliner.

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As you can see I have been working on the top. Re mounted it to the drip rail then cut to fit as we say with metal butt welding but the same principal with the Fiberglas. When I started this I was not aware that the top was not solid but had a foam center. A thin layer of cloth on both sides with a 1/4" foam center which is fine. I tapered the cut area back about two inches so I can glass back and fill in the void and create a strong repair and ultimately have it stronger than the rest of the top. Also I will be adding cloth to the underside for strength and resin to smooth it also as it will require very little time and material to make it ready for the next step. Not sure what I will use for the headliner have read some of others decisions, would like to hear from you about your travels with how you did your headliner.
I found some headliner on ebay I was thinking of buying, looks very close to the oem stuff from the pics I see.
 
Spent a little time today fitting the two pieces into the drip rail and seeing how it looked in place. Next step is to place a piece of flashing about eight inches wide in the center of the cut and screw it in place. I will use masking tape to keep it from sticking to the flashing and do the final fit with clecos before I screw the second half in place. Then bring on the resin and fiberglass. Been awhile sense I have played with this stuff but it is like riding a bike I will pick it back up, the good part is you can always sand off the excess.
 
WOW!! AWESOME work SKIP!!! That FJ55 frame went to good use :) You neglected to tell me you are a BAD mo Fo fabricator! I have heard a lot of stories over the years from guys who have purchased parts from me and how they plan to use them, and I remember you sharing your plan years ago thinking how cool of an idea you had but wondering if it would ever get done with consideration to the scale. Well look at you now! This is AWESOME and I can't wait to see it DONE!
 
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Can't wait to see what your going to do to the back end of this thing.... there is endless options. The J4 body ROCKS!
 
TNX, nugget i am in the market looking for a stock 45 bed. I will have to do some mods to it to make it work. Back of the cab to center of the axle will be 30" with a total length of 66". If you are looking for a visual miker and his 45 bed has the same looks and the numbers are similar. He narrowed his slightly however I will be leaving mine stock width.
 
TNX Josh
Kind words keep me going, the hard part of the process is keeping the $ part full and flowing. Been working on thinning the stables from the previous life of Hot Roding and to filter in and keeping this project flowing along with enjoying my 65 LWB 45 both are great fun. Sold one of my cabovers yesterday sorry to see it go however life changes and now it is back to getting busy.
 
Bet your curious to what these are, spent some time today cutting out the plugs to weld/
Frame Plugs.jpg
fill in the holes in the FJ55 frame. This will complete this operation and then a bit of mods to the front where the bib mounts to the frame, then it will be ready for sand blasting and primer painting.
 
Stumpalama
i would think there are two reasons that I can think of. The first is to keep water and mud out of the inner channel so the rust will be to a minimum. Secondly to clean up the looks of the frame and make it smooth. Ya I know you will say you don't see it and I have to agree somewhat however that is what I have been doing to the cars I build for fifty plus years don't think I am going to stop now.
 
There is more than one way to skin a cat and there certainly is no "right" or "wrong" when it comes to personal preference.
I thought your reasoning may be the case.
So, before you close up the frame rails, do you do any sort of rustproofing to the insides?

Out East, we run into enough mud and water that I prefer frame openings so I can get the power washer in there, clean out the mud then bomb the inner parts of the frame with rust bullet.

Your attention to detail is phenomenal and your welds are things of beauty.
Keep up the good work.

Cheers,
Stump
 
TNX Stump
I started when I was 14 never looked back. That was a 27 T roadster bought it for 40 bucks.

Went on to school and got a degree in teaching, 34 years Auto and Metal shop and principal ship for some.That was way back, Hot Rods up until a few years ago. Needed a change so I took up four wheeling so I could keep fishing the tough places to get to. 53 years of great fun still plenty of life left in this Ol body, guess when I stop it will be time to go into the hole with my pride positions beside me...,;)
 
Stump
Passed on the inside of the frame. when i took the two frames apart they were real clean as there are no side holes like the 40 frames. so I am not worried with any frame rust. Might spray some conditioner in before I button up the ends. I live in California and we don't have adverse road salts going on. However I am doing more than most for future problems.
 

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