Builds Skips FJ 35 BUILD (2 Viewers)

[47coeman]

New center panel welded in and roughed out along with the center top clamp bracket sitting there waiting to be welded. Wanted to finish grinding the welds and any body work that need to be done before I did weld it in. Next will be the corners and that will finish out the inside work.

 

[47coeman]

Set the tub on the frame and welded the body mounts. There is a total of six, four in the back to support the roll cage frame to body mounts kinda overkill but I like doing more than less. As you can see I have the front sheet metal in primer, not much body work to do block out and good to go. The white spacers will be replaced with different material these were used to get the right lift off the 55 frame there is a difference between a 40-55 anyhow, working on a cowl vent on the left side of the tub lets see how it comes out.

 

[Kief]

Awesome.. keep it up!

 

[whitey45]

Nice work Skip, I like how you replicated the back cab supports below the back window, guess it helps to have a 45 on hand!

 

[miker]

Looks great!

Just thinking, that you could come out straight with the frame extensions and possibly eliminate the need for a spacer between the body and body mount?

 

[47coeman]

Nice work Skip, I like how you replicated the back cab supports below the back window, guess it helps to have a 45 on hand!

TNX Whitey
Ya it does I do a lot of comparing and measure things on a regular basis. The body mounts are two inside as well as two outside the frame as you can see in the pics and a total of four across the back that should support the roll cage.

 

[47coeman]

Miker
Now you have me thinking, In your opinion how close can I get the body to the frame and not have problems. I could almost eliminate the white piece and have some room, as the pic is not to scale.

 

[miker]

IMO, the thickness of that 2050 body mount is more than an inch. Even after tightening it up, should not squish down much. Mine didn't. Think that inch or so is more than plenty clearance.

 

[miker]

And don't let my thinkin' slow you down.

 

[47coeman]

Miker
I value your input as it keeps me honest with extra eyes. My plans are to do the final measurement to get it as close to the frame as reasonable pending rubber squash, what is your input as well as any other MUD guys out there.

 

[47coeman]

I decide that I needed a 1/4 panel vent on the driver side as the passenger side was going to be used for the turbo air filter intake I like symmetrical. So I went and got a junk yard piece and as you can see it came

out nicely from the piece I was able to get. Don't think it will take any filler was lucky no shrinkage.

 

[47coeman]

Last couple of partial days I have focused on grinding the welds down on the inside of the top. Not my most favorite thing, tedious and have to be careful not to warp anything I was mostly successful. A little touch up with the shrink disk will get everything back to where I want it. Here we have the pics so you can see I have all of the inside done except for the center hold down which I am doing the last of the fitting tomorrow. Next will be the windshield install so I can get the final measurements for the drip rails and fiberglass top, inch by inch.

 

[RAYJON]

How well does a shrinking disc work on 40 sheetmetal?? Do you have a wave or flat one. I always used a torch, quench and a shrinking hammer/dollie while it was still warm,

may have to get one...

 

[47coeman]

I use both depends on what I am doing, both have there places. Takes a little exposure to learn how to shrink with a disk, what I like about it is I can get the panel much flatter/smother , faster with a disk and not much hammer dolly work if that makes sense.

 

[47coeman]

BTW I have a wave one have seen both and both work good, I just learned on the wave.

 

[RAYJON]

I have seen them and understand how they work just wondered with the thicker cruiser sheet metal if it worked the same. Guess i need to get one...thanks.. ohh nice build...

 

[47coeman]

It works on the friction model and heat created. Yes thicker metal takes more heat but the principal works well. Also the speed or RPM of the motor is important faster is not better. Just a constant medium turning and steady pressure is needed. Concerning the heat from the friction it doesn't have to get that hot to move metal. Never get it to hot to change color and you will do just fine. Takes a little practice.

 

[47coeman]

Was kinda dinking around and thought it would look a little more finished if I brought the top front edge all the way out on the B pillar to finish it off, what do you think.

 

[Kief]

That looks good. I hadn't thought about the difference in the seam, seeing that the 45 cab doesn't have the overlap,just a rubber seal.. That is probably a better design as the 45 cabs aren't very water-tight.

 

[47coeman]

Will be dong some work on the inside cab to deflect the water so it cant get in. The overlay will help also, you are right the 45 has many cracks for the water to get in and get the ol rust beetles going