Show me pics of your engine hoist rigging

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May 29, 2008
Boulder County Colorado
Gettin ready to install the newly rebuilt 2F . I want to lift the engine/tranny/Xfer case at one time for the install.i have a decent hoist and pulled the combo out this way (as a unit) but it was a bit sketchy. Just want to hear from others before I go for it. Lots of $$$ on the line this time. Thanks for the post up pics...:D
Can't get to my pics due to a computer crash, but if you have a good hoist then go for it and just take your time. It's easy to get tense but that will only work against you. I used a 4' section of chain with a hook at each end and played with the fore & aft distribution to get the right angle when I reinstalled my motor & tranny this winter and had no problems. If your hoist pulled the whole mess out without a problem then there's no reason it won't put it back in. I let the tranny and transfer hang down and just used my floor jack to support them once they were back under the floor pan. It takes some finagling and the occasional yank back and forth to get the motor where it needs to be bit it really isn't that hard. If you pulled it out you can put it back.
Build it!!!

I bought a 1FZ-E engine this week. It is still in the back of my truck and I am needing a hoist ASAP. Went to the shops around here and everything was TOO expensive.

Searched the internet and found this:

Seems prety easy to build :banana:. I will do so this weekend and post pictures. :popcorn:
Harbour Frieght for good inexpensive hoists.I will try and post up a pic. for you of my engine pull or install.It's all about rigging it up and going for it!
I have a sloped driveway and it's asphalt,so not good for rolling the engine.So I took the rollers off the hoist and left it staionary,then pulled my 40 to the engine/tranny/tc.It worked really good.
1969 FJ40 002.jpg
1969 FJ40 031.jpg
The last pic.was putting the tranny/tc on the eng.not really a good shot of rigging an engine! That HF 2-ton hoist I got new for $150 on sale! I pulled and installed my engine solo,not the best idea.
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Thanks for the pics...however, Im thinking about using a diffrent method to chain up the lift.

Unless otherwise convinced, I dont trust the factory headbolt /alt. mount hooks for engine and trans and transfer case...Im thinking they are for engine only removal

Please tell me Im wrong...:grinpimp:
The head was off my engine when I pulled it out.. I made some someple L shaped brackets to go into the head bolt holes.. I used some clutch housing bolts to bolt the brackets to the block.. I lifted the block and transmission assembly out with the front end loader on the tractor.. To install the assembled engine only, I used the factory brackets that go under the 2 rear head bolts and the alternator bolts.. I wouldnt hesistate to use these hooks for installing the engine/trans assembly, but I would use a load leveller.. I have a two post hoist and transmission jack to install the transmission with, infact my soft top 40 is on there right now..
I had my head off when I pulled mine... made an H bracket out of some 2x2 steel I had laying around with holes drilled in 4 spots to match up to the head bolts. Used the head bolts to mount the H bracket with some loop straps I had gotten down the dock between the bracket and the engine hoist. To adjust for angle I tied a knot in the front strap so that it sat in the middle and used a ratchet strap from the knot to a solid point on the back of the engine. Tightening the ratchet strap pulled the front loop strap in and created more than enough angle and it came out with no problems. If I needed to put it back with or without the head I would use the straps again. Cheap and simple at least for me.
Thanks for the pics...however, Im thinking about using a diffrent method to chain up the lift.

Unless otherwise convinced, I dont trust the factory headbolt /alt. mount hooks for engine and trans and transfer case...Im thinking they are for engine only removal

Please tell me Im wrong...:grinpimp:


I have removed complete engine, four-speed transmission and transfer case assemblies on those factory hooks many times without any issues...

Not a problem. Always have help. There is a lot of weight hanging. Load leveler works best. On the one I have I have to bend the handle to make it work. Also a nice tall floor jack for getting the t-case up is a good idea. Also remove at least one bellhousing motor mount both makes it easier.

I can tell you they will bend if your chain is too short between them...

Otherwise, I pulled the engine/tranny/t-case as one unit easily with my harbor freight special hoist.

I know you probably already know this but that looks unsafe as hell.:D
Trollhole Poser and Collermans Rep. hangs in the balance

OK guys...
Its all on you....:D

No really, thanks for the pics and advise...Ill chain her up and throw it in this weekend...maybe even post up some pics of the new rebuild
I just pulled and installed the whole package last week using alternator and exhaust manifold bolts. It worked wonderfully! I would suggest a load leveler also! I took both bellhousing mounts and my exhaust off to add extra clearence since I was doing all the work by myself.
Just did mine yesterday. Harbor Freight 2-Ton hoist, fully extended (1/2 ton position). Hooked to the lifting points on the engine.
Jacked up the engine high enough for the trans to clear the front cross member. (my rigging definitely made the setup rear heavy). Put a ratchet strap around the frame loosely to cradle the trans as I lowered it. Once lowered, I put a jack under the trans. I'm putting a 2F & 4sp into my '66. Still need to mount the tranny cross member. Like Coolerman, I did this by myself, but an extra set of hands would have been smarter.

PS - Having the tub off made it much easier...
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x5 on th engine leveler. I've pulled a lot of engine combinations trying to use chains and rope and you can do it, but you won't believe how much easier it is with one of these and I found it on line for $75 and they had it to me in about 5 days.
engine install resize 2.jpg
I personally wouldn't buy a HF hoist.

This one failed at less than half it's rated load. Not the hydraulic ram, or the hardware--the basic metal tube failed. The total weight of that bed was about 800 lbs.

I know it looks stupid, but I AM an engineer. When it actually lifted, it needed one nickel on a corner to balance it out perfectly. I had estimated it to be no more than 1200 lbs, and the tow truck we hired to get it off of there was able to use his load meters to confirm 800 lbs total weight. It was an expensive lesson.

After that, I went out and bought an Omega hoist. I HATE having that much weight supported by suspect equipment.

And x2 on the load leveler. Not required, but it makes pulling and replacing the engine so much easier.

using the trusses and some side wall support...

i use this design, i beef up a rafer and then set 4x's on top of that picking up the close rafters for addition wieght support, and then i add supports on each side with cripples at angle to capture any additional "sag" at the ends where damage to the building may occur. I have done this in three locations over the last three moves and it works well for me. i use a 2000# chain hoist to lift the engine out. I place the center of the hoist at about four feet in front of the length of a fj40, so that i can lift and then roll back the rig to get it away from the frame. i have done this on one fj62 as well and the positioning set up seems right there. i used the set up to pull the frame "off" of the motor, tranny, and transfer case (real long) on a fj40-72 project and did the opposite to install it back after rebuild.

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