Should I replace fusible link just because?

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I bought a new one from Wits last year, finally getting around to looking into this.
The connections inside black box look great, no frayed wires to be seen. Managed to avoid destroying the box even though it was a BEAR getting the 12mm connections apart. I did wreck the positive battery terminal piece In the process, but that’s OK because it was a bit sketchy looking with some corrosion at bottom of post.
 
no
 
I say no. Just carry the spare in the vehicle
 
FWIW using a small cordless drill driver or impact wrench will zip those original nuts off the connections in the black box in a second, otherwise it's difficult using wrenches.
 
FWIW using a small cordless drill driver or impact wrench will zip those original nuts off the connections in the black box in a second, otherwise it's difficult using wrenches.
It sure was. Why are they on there so tight, I wonder?

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Here’s my positive terminal, with broken off part turned upside down to show corrosion. Ripped apart by cranking on that nut with a wrench.

42E1693E-7C3B-40C3-B632-082C438C38F6.jpeg
 
They are so easy to change, just make sure you keep the new one and some tools in your truck.

Don't fix it if it ain't broke.....
 
I have two spares, one in the truck and one in the shop and I left the one on the truck there as it's working fine !
But everything under my hood is clean and tidy, If my terminals looked anything like that it would all be getting replaced along with Land Cruiser Phil's anti-stress fusible link connection !
 
Sure. Why not.
It's called preventative maintenance.
It's a part that's known to fail.
It can cause problems without an outright failure.
It's mission critical.
It's cheap.
It's easily replaced.

Keep a spare in your tool/parts kit
Ha! To the bold above. Not true a couple days ago, but now it is.
I decided not to replace for the time being.

Looked at the website with anti stress fusible link connection. It's not clear to me what problem that piece fixes?
Also checked out his battery hold down hardware. It's said that all the battery boxes get ripped. At first I thought mine was, but after more investigation it is not. They are supposed to have that slot in the plastic where one hold down rod fits in.

D07D697A-A1C7-4019-96C6-DB1B8C6F410A.jpeg
 
25 years old and easily replaced. I'd rather do it in the garage rather than on the side of the interstate on a 100 degree day but that's just me.

Mine failed last year or so - in the garage!

:lol:

Always have a spare handy. Thanks for the reminder about the battery hold-downs, one of mine came loose again.
 
25 years old and easily replaced. I'd rather do it in the garage rather than on the side of the interstate on a 100 degree day but that's just me.

Mine failed last year or so - in the garage!

:lol:

Always have a spare handy. Thanks for the reminder about the battery hold-downs, one of mine came loose again.
Was yours original that failed?
Any idea why it did?
 
Copper wiring "fails" due to corrosion from exposure to the atmosphere and stress resulting from repetitive flexure due to vibration and fat thumbed mechanics.
 
Was yours original that failed?
Any idea why it did?

Copper wiring "fails" due to corrosion from exposure to the atmosphere and stress resulting from repetitive flexure due to vibration and fat thumbed mechanics.
⬆️⬆️⬆️

It was original. Plus the rubber grommet was missing when I bought it, so it was pretty chafed up.
 

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