If you just want an 80 to drive till it dies, this might do for less than $2k if you bargain. If you want one to make pretty and keep long term, this isn't the one. Lots of body rust, the poor repair, and I'm sure neglected upkeep elsewhere.
Body Delamination - should I buy this 97? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jadesdan
- Start date
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ChaseTruck
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Yes, there is, but certainly not MUD-approved…
Simply put a large adhesive sticker over the entire area. That’ll prevent further water ingress for a bit.
I’ve had good luck with this, decades ago: my Renault 5 was rusting badly (well, that’s what all Renaults of that era did, but hey, it was a good student’s car…) around the gas filler neck. So I placed an 8” FC Bayern Munich sticker over the area, cut out the center to permit fill-ups, and it stayed that way until I sold the car…
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Are 80s collectable?
Sure.
Is this one a collectable? Absolutely not.
Point being, don't pay any premium for collectable status. There's none on this truck.
Could it be a good beater? Sure.
Buy it as being disposable if you find major issue.
If you can do repairs and maintenance yourself, why not.
If you have to pay someone to work on it, you could quickly spend more than the truck is worth.
Sure.
Is this one a collectable? Absolutely not.
Point being, don't pay any premium for collectable status. There's none on this truck.
Could it be a good beater? Sure.
Buy it as being disposable if you find major issue.
If you can do repairs and maintenance yourself, why not.
If you have to pay someone to work on it, you could quickly spend more than the truck is worth.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Was that truck repaired by the Cleetus Body Shop?
TBH, I would probably buy it as a parts truck, and/or a dedicated trail rig.
If you take ownership, you have tenets that need eviction. They are probably making swiss cheese of everything behind the dash.
TBH, I would probably buy it as a parts truck, and/or a dedicated trail rig.
If you take ownership, you have tenets that need eviction. They are probably making swiss cheese of everything behind the dash.
- Thread starter
- #26
My planned use case is extra family vehicle (for when my son's Ford is in the shop, again), bad-weather vehicle (for when we get more snow than my AWD car can handle), and fun/hunting rig. Our current "extra" vehicle is a '95 F-150 single cab 2WD, which I could probably sell for $2500, so in my mind the LC would be better.
- Thread starter
- #28
Literally everything?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Search for threads on "baselining".
Depending on how susceptible to MUD-OCD* you are, "everything" could be literal.
There's a bunch of stuff that fairly typically needs attention on a 30ish year old vehicle.
* its a known communicable disease
I disagree....for an extra rig could be worth it I'd take it over the Ford you mentioned
Could probably drive that for the next 10 years as is and be fine
Definitely not one i'd choose to put money into
Could probably drive that for the next 10 years as is and be fine
Definitely not one i'd choose to put money into
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
This is not a fixer-upper. If it is a drive it till it dies, and you don't care about the way it looks, drives till the doors fall off, then it may work for you. Also remember, when it comes to maintenance, everything but an oil change, spark plugs and filters on these things are expensive. 2-3 times that of a normal vehicle. Factor that into the purchase price.
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NeverFinis
SILVER Star
You know what, a clean 1995 F-150 2WD Single Cab is a keeper. The 4.9L straight six is as durable as it gets. Keeping oil in it is even optional.
The truck is dead simple, and cheap to repair. Parts are easy to come by. People are hunting for clean OBS trucks.The FZJ80 does have 4WD, and does have more seats, but it will not be cheap to maintain and keep on the road. Parts are getting harder to come by and many parts are no longer made.
Some of you guys are total divas. For $2500 I'd drive the hell out out of. Not bad at all for a running and driving 80. I'm not going to recommend the "fix it as it breaks" approach, but I would refresh whatever is past its prime and drive it. The quarter panel would require the entire skin being replaced to be properly fixed, and that isn't even considering how the D pillar could be shifted. In all honestly that wouldn't be worth it, but I wouldn't hate you if you just gave it to a cheap-o body shop and had them grind off the cracked bondo and lay down another "skim coat". A shot of paint and it'll be way more presentable than that rust! Yes it would be wrong to sell it without disclosing that, but as a driver? F it! I'd bully the hell out of people in NYC traffic with it.
I wouldn't be afraid of it for a driver/beater/wheeler. I wouldn't consider it a candidate for a collector, but full disclosure: neither is mine! Honestly I wouldn't bother with most of the baselining threads on here because you'll just wind up convinced that you shouldn't drive another foot before going through it with a fine tooth comb. If you like it, use it as a cheap way to dip your toe into the LC world and if you discover you really like it, sell it a year down the road for roughly what you've got into it and buy a nice one.
These are all very bad ideas. I approve. Don’t press the sunroof button, ever. I’m joking above but the sunroof…ugh.
Tbh, I notice a lot of these "collector grade" trucks are heavily restored. Many still needed extensive body repairs and refinishing to look as good as they do. Not saying this should be the end goal for this particular 80, but the point is the dude only wants $2500. I've seen much worse for four times that. Of course you can dump 20k into it and ask for 35k on Cars and Bids with a "Quick Take" from Demuro on how much of a steal it is.
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks guys. I plan on buying it and doing the minimum maintenance, then driving it one weekends and holidays 
Agree with much stated above. If I were to buy it I would consider it an extra vehicle and not get emotional about it (meaning keep a strict budget). Ad or repair what is needed and nothing more. From the pictures, it looks as though the knuckles are weeping but at that price and use case just ensure you keep grease in there and call it good.
Two weeks ago, an LX450 popped up on CL for $1500. It had been hit in the rear and the owner just wanted to off load it, needless to say I called about 45 minutes after posting and he already had a list of people.
In the end, drive it and enjoy and consider it a potential parts truck if you find you really like the 80 and get a better example.
Two weeks ago, an LX450 popped up on CL for $1500. It had been hit in the rear and the owner just wanted to off load it, needless to say I called about 45 minutes after posting and he already had a list of people.
In the end, drive it and enjoy and consider it a potential parts truck if you find you really like the 80 and get a better example.
That's about what mine looked like when I bought it without the rust holes and the 4 LB of bondo. I knew mine had been wrecked a couple times, but it had "good bones". I bought it with 196K miles on it in 2012.Thanks guys. I plan on buying it and doing the minimum maintenance, then driving it one weekends and holidays
I dumped about $6000 in parts and tires into it and about three weeks of my time and it now has 373K miles. it's ready for another complete go-through on axles and brakes and stuff. It is my daily driver. I put on about 15-20K miles/yr. I average 11.5 MPG. These things will run and drive with extremely lacking maintenance.
First things to check are the knuckle studs on the bottom of the front axle to make sure they are tight and not coming loose. Particularly the RF knuckle. They are known to come loose and tear up the RF corner and axle.
Most likely you'll need the typical list of baselining stuff.
if the bodywork doesn't bother you, great! Drive it and enjoy it!
These are NOT cheap to repair and drive, but they are MUCH better if you do your own work. If you need to pay someone to do your work, then probably not the best decision. Parts are not cheap, but they will last a long time, especially if you use OEM. My truck "spits out" aftermarket parts and they only last a fraction of what the OEM stuff does.
If it has a WIX or NAPA oil filter on it, take it off NOW and install a Toyota oil filter (YZZD3).
Yes, you need a rebuild on the front axle, but if you fill it with gear oil and fill the knuckles with Valvoline Palladium, and make sure your wheel bearings are properly greased and tightened, you can drive for YEARS, as long as you keep filling the grease and oil.
Drive it, make a list.
Everyone on here would have a coronary about mine now, but I have no qualms whatsoever about jumping in mine and driving 2000 miles. Mine is starting to see some needs of body repair and paint, and I will at some point, but right now, I keep it in excellent mechanical shape and drive the heck out of it.
Read everything here, listen and take advice.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Until they don't, then that deferred maintenance is gonna take a bite out of your wallet . . .
Good summary though
