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I have a spare ready for rehab. Can those metal mount brackets be gently manipulated off the plastic housing? Mine needs some surface rust attention.Drop me a PM whenever you're ready!
They can be if you're extremely careful. Takes some finagling but certainly not impossible.I have a spare ready for rehab. Can those metal mount brackets be gently manipulated off the plastic housing? Mine needs some surface rust attention.
hmm, maybe I'll try an different method of cleaning the metal. Not worth breaking the case.They can be if you're extremely careful. Takes some finagling but certainly not impossible.
If it's light surface rust I would just mask off what you can of the plastic and spray the metal with a rust converter. These are fortunately fairly protected from the elements so it takes a long time for rust to progress. Even minor prevention will go a long way here.hmm, maybe I'll try an different method of cleaning the metal. Not worth breaking the case.
The new felts are a great first step, and usually the most beneficial to fixing slow windows. I'll tackle each of your issues one by one here.Hi Spook,
Like lots of others here I've got some issues with my power windows, door locks and rear windshield washer (the fronts could be faster too). I recently replaced all the window felt as part of a paint job and now my car is home and I'm tackling the annoying "little" things that don't work at all...or don't work properly. So, can I get your guidance for fixing the following problems:
1. Slow windows: Is this most likely a relay problem, or is it the bad ground in the main window control switch? For repair...what is your turn-around time?
2. Windshield wiper relays: Do you also repair these two relays and is the front different than the rear?
3. Door locks seem like they want to work, but the fronts just don't quite have the umpf to move up and down. Suggestion?
Thanks
There is no main ground for any of the doors, but on both A pillars about 20" up from the floor are the main body ground points. If those are corroded or have too much paint in them they could have poor contact which could cause a myriad of electrical issues. If you have a new master switch (I do as well. Also a Switch Doctor that I had to move a pin on) that wouldn't be a problem. The Switch Doctor assemblies are surprisingly good quality.Hmmm...you mentioned the ground on the A-pillar and door? I just got my truck by from Kelly Saad's shop and he cut-out and replaced a portion of each A-pillar. He also painted the doors and slapped it all back together under some pretty serious time constrains imposed by me. A bad ground somewhere is entirely possible.
I'm going to start with the ground wire. Not so long ago my master switch fell apart and I purchased the Switch Doctor after-market version. I didn't really notice a difference in window speed before or after, although I did have to re-pin one of the connectors to get everything to work correctly...so I don't think it is the switch?
I'm not particularly good at auto electrical stuff, but I think it's about time I rolled up my sleeves so I can learn something. I bought a small power source and I think I'll start by putting 12V to each of the solenoids and see if the motors work? Then work back from those points? If the grounds are good and the motors work, then I'll be sending you a one or more relays.
Thanks @Spook50 for the helpful suggestions!