Continuing from my first post, here we see the meat and potatoes of an unmodified window relay board. Like I said before, this is a very simple circuit and the components prone to wear were easily identified.
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Since I had all the parts already available (save for the resistor array; the long black component at the top of the pic, which tested good, but more on that shortly), I depopulated the board. Resistors don't typically wear out unless there's damage, which I saw none in this case nor on my own part, but in the event I find an unserviceable one, I do have spares for those as well. You'll see I still removed the resistor array and tested each pin. What's interesting is that his was much more consistent than my own, save for pins 5 and 9. All others pins on his were consistent in readings to pin 1. Mine, oddly enough, were all over the place. Yet both units still worked perfectly after repair; HOWEVER, when testing 4Cruisers's part in my door my window actually raised and lowered slightly faster than with my own part. This is why I would like to more thoroughly analyze the circuit so that I can determine what exactly is affecting the current allowed to pass to the window motors. Regardless, testing his resistor array allowed me to source a proper, long lasting replacement that's already on its way should I come across any that are as out of whack as my own or actually damaged.
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Here is the completed and refurbished board. All capacitors and the relays have been replaced and the resistor array reinstalled. Also, before and after working, the PCB was thoroughly cleaned, first with plastic safe (for the connector) contact cleaner, and then after soldering with 99% isopropanol to remove excess flux. Like I said before, any resistors (and diodes) I find damaged can be replaced as well. Given the large holes in the PCB, I can also use larger wattage capacity resistors so as to avoid any possible heat issues in warmer climates (honestly doubt that's ever been an issue anywhere, but hey, why not?).
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On the backside now you can see the nice new solder joints. I use old school lead based solder, which to my experience is much more durable and longer lasting than ROHS compliant solders. I also beefed up the connection points on the small bus bar that runs between the relays. What's interesting is that my part had considerably more solder in place to begin with than 4Cruisers's. Wish I would've taken a picture of my own for comparison. I attribute this to variations in the manufacturing process from the late 80s. Nothing wrong with correcting it now, huh?
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My hope is that this will help anyone whose driver's window has stopped working in any aspect, or just runs very slowly (caveat: a simply slow window can be caused by several factors. Refurbishing the relay box can/may help, but it is NOT a guaranteed magic bullet for a slow driver's window! Please research the other causes as well if you're tackling a slow window).
For those who are interested, I offer this service for $100 per unit, plus shipping to me. Shipping back to you is included. This provides you with a practically new part for far less than the cost of a used part that's already worn and 30+ years old.
For any Cruiser oriented shops or businesses who are interested for restoration purposes so that they can be putting better than old used parts in customers' rigs, five or more parts are charged at $80 per unit (shipping deal is the same).
My goal is to fill a small niche for FJ62 owners and at the same time use my skills to fund my own projects and maintenance on my 62.
