Seized spark plug 6 (1 Viewer)

[DBULL]

A deep-well socket and extension that will clear the porcelain and seat on the hex given a few taps with a small hammer before the attempted removal may be of some assistance.

 

[abuck99]

First mistake was telling them about the stuck plug. Admittedly not a high integrity move but better off taking in for new plugs and allow them to create and solve the problem.

Right now it’s stuck but not broken right? You’re going down the worst case scenario rabbit hole. Follow 2001s instructions and see how it goes. If it goes pear shaped In that attached video the proper extraction tool is mentioned and illustrated use that not the typical easy out shown above.

You’ll get it ( I like engine warmed up during removal)

 

[2001LC]

So MR T said it will be 1300$ for the new head and another 15 hours of labor to install, would you recommend I buy the head from them and have a trusted mechanic install or best to go through them?

You'll not likely need one.

 

[flintknapper]

All good advice above. I’ll add that once it does start breaking free, I suggest working in increments. In other words, turn counterclockwise until it starts getting tight again, then spray PB blaster, then turn clockwise, then repeat. @86R100RS had a few plugs that were like your #6 and it took me 3 days of working them in increments plus a full can of PB blaster to get them out without breakage or stripping the threads in the head.

^^^^^

This is exactly what I had to do when I first got my LX. Four of the plugs acted absolutely seized. 2 days of soaking with PB blaster, moving each plug just a little (maybe an 1/8th of turn then back clockwise, then back C/C once and sprayed it down again. Wait a few hours and go back at it. Eventually....the plug would turn about 1/4 turn (with repeated Clockwise/Counter Clockwise pressure), then got better and better to a point where it didn't feel like the plug was galling the head.

I certainly wouldn't just force it, its not worth the risk. Working it back and forth slowly and keeping it sprayed down with penetrating oil should work. Just takes time. At anytime you feel the plug seizing or 'chattering as if dry' STOP and spray it, then let it sit for a few hours. Took me over two days to get 4 plugs out...but no damage.

 

[Romo]

^^^^^

This is exactly what I had to do when I first got my LX. Four of the plugs acted absolutely seized. 2 days of soaking with PB blaster, moving each plug just a little (maybe an 1/8th of turn then back clockwise, then back C/C once and sprayed it down again. Wait a few hours and go back at it. Eventually....the plug would turn about 1/4 turn (with repeated Clockwise/Counter Clockwise pressure), then got better and better to a point where it didn't feel like the plug was galling the head.

I certainly wouldn't just force it, its not worth the risk. Working it back and forth slowly and keeping it sprayed down with penetrating oil should work. Just takes time. At anytime you feel the plug seizing or 'chattering as if dry' STOP and spray it, then let it sit for a few hours. Took me over two days to get 4 plugs out...but no damage.

 

[Romo]

Seized #7 spark plug (DS, closest to firewall). Replaced the plugs and one is seized. Really tough to move in either direction. Soaked over night in WD40, tried again this morning to re-tighten and only moved about a 1/8 of a turn. I am considering trying the 44K fuel cleaner method mentioned here, but what if I cannot get the plug to tighten back to it's seated position? It'll run like crap I assume, but what other options do I have?

 

[flintknapper]

Seized #7 spark plug (DS, closest to firewall). Replaced the plugs and one is seized. Really tough to move in either direction. Soaked over night in WD40, tried again this morning to re-tighten and only moved about a 1/8 of a turn. I am considering trying the 44K fuel cleaner method mentioned here, but what if I cannot get the plug to tighten back to it's seated position? It'll run like crap I assume, but what other options do I have?

Ditch the WD40 and use a dedicated penetrating oil. There is NO option....the plug has to come out or eventually it will fail to fire and will only be building up MORE deposits on the threads with the passing of time and use. You have two issues. The spark plug and head are dissimilar metals....so galvanic corrosion occurs at the threads. To make matters worse, some amount of the threads (spark plug) stick down into the combustion chamber and can get a build up of burned gas and oil on them.

IF you can move it at all....then penetrating oil and TIME will get it out. It might only turn very small amounts at first, but that is progress. IF you force it.....you'll either strip the threads or gall them so badly that you need to install a helicoil or source another head.

 

[Romo]

Ditch the WD40 and use a dedicated penetrating oil. There is NO option....the plug has to come out or eventually it will fail to fire and will only be building up MORE deposits on the threads with the passing of time and use. You have two issues. The spark plug and head are dissimilar metals....so galvanic corrosion occurs at the threads. To make matters worse, some amount of the threads (spark plug) stick down into the combustion chamber and can get a build up of burned gas and oil on them.

IF you can move it at all....then penetrating oil and TIME will get it out. It might only turn very small amounts at first, but that is progress. IF you force it.....you'll either strip the threads or gall them so badly that you need to install a helicoil or source another head.

I have now used a penetrating oil and having it soaking (I only had WD at the time). Thanks for your reply, it gives me hope that it's not cross threaded, just a PITA spark plug.

 

[flintknapper]

I have now used a penetrating oil and having it soaking (I only had WD at the time). Thanks for your reply, it gives me hope that it's not cross threaded, just a PITA spark plug.

Yes, lets hope it is not cross threaded. A 'sticky' spark plug on the other hand is a very common problem. IF you have the time to be patient with it, soak it and move it in small increments... it will come out. You'll reach a point where you are getting 1/4 turns and it doesn't bind or chatter. Then you are almost home free. Just go slow. Best of luck.

Flint.

 

[2001LC]

Add 2 can of BG 44K to a full tank of gas. Try removing plug again, after run out gas tank (~300 miles).

 

[pvchaitanya]

Freeze out oil penetrator can do the trick at times. (It freezes the area and add oil to it to loosen).

 

[Romo]

Freeze out oil penetrator can do the trick at times. (It freezes the area and add oil to it to loosen).

With patience and good penetrating oil, the problematic spark plug came out after soaking for 4 days. No damage and the new one threaded in nicely!

 

[flintknapper]

With patience and good penetrating oil, the problematic spark plug came out after soaking for 4 days. No damage and the new one threaded in nicely!

This was my experience as well.

It is critical to give it time (whether you like it or not) and go slowly.

Good job Sir.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Whoever said use 44k I love you. I have hardly messed with it since I started the 44k treatment . After about 4 fill ups with the 44k this little ****er slipped out like butter Shoutout to the boyz on mud.