I have a spark plug (#6) on my 100 series that is seized pretty badly, I tried to put pb on it overnight but it still feels like it wins budge. I’m ready to just use my longest breaker bar and try to wiggle it out. If I happen to snap the plug what should my next move be to repair it?
Seized spark plug 6 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MACKSDAD
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- 100 series help spark plugs
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I'd put 2 cans of 44k in a full tank of gas. Diver until on empty. Then come back after #6. If still stuck, repeat 44K treatment. Chevron techron and or Sea-foam can also be used as second choice.
I have had to put more torque on some spark plugs in the 4.7L 2UZ, than I every thought they could handle. I've had to use a 3/4 breaker bar, putting a lot of torque on them. 3/4 breaker bar will not flex. If tools used flexes, bolt wins (spark plug).
Use great care, to not let spark plug tool or extension, ride on soft metal of spark plug tube. Work to keep tool centered in tube.
Number one reason they get stuck in head. Some well meaning DIYer used anti-seize on thread. As the plugs walk out. Hot gasses cook the anti-seize in the threads.
Good luck and take your time. Last thing you'd want, is a busted plug in heads.
I have had to put more torque on some spark plugs in the 4.7L 2UZ, than I every thought they could handle. I've had to use a 3/4 breaker bar, putting a lot of torque on them. 3/4 breaker bar will not flex. If tools used flexes, bolt wins (spark plug).
Use great care, to not let spark plug tool or extension, ride on soft metal of spark plug tube. Work to keep tool centered in tube.
Number one reason they get stuck in head. Some well meaning DIYer used anti-seize on thread. As the plugs walk out. Hot gasses cook the anti-seize in the threads.
Good luck and take your time. Last thing you'd want, is a busted plug in heads.
^^Good advice
- Thread starter
- #4
Sounds like a good idea! If it breaks off what would my next step be? This is my second attempt at getting it out so it doesn’t look promising.
The ceramic might break but the threaded end shouldn’t come apart - just be careful of not dropping debris down into combustion chamber.
Longer fulcrum on your wrench- try a socket and 1/2” extension over the end of your breaker handle
I had a full set really stuck last year. We just kept come back after repeated 44K treatments. 1st time got 4 out. 2nd time got 3 out, 3rd time I got last one, which was either #6 or 8 IDRC. It was the last one where I really put pressure on it, using a 3/4 breaker bar.
It's better to leave in, than bust in the head. Drilling out a spark plug with head on block, is not a good option. So don't let tool get off at an angle, busting porcelain of spark plug.
It's better to leave in, than bust in the head. Drilling out a spark plug with head on block, is not a good option. So don't let tool get off at an angle, busting porcelain of spark plug.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
All good advice above. I’ll add that once it does start breaking free, I suggest working in increments. In other words, turn counterclockwise until it starts getting tight again, then spray PB blaster, then turn clockwise, then repeat. @86R100RS had a few plugs that were like your #6 and it took me 3 days of working them in increments plus a full can of PB blaster to get them out without breakage or stripping the threads in the head.
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Here are a few ideas. I don’t recommend going straight for the impact but it may give you an idea of some worst case scenarios:
I hope it helps!
I hope it helps!
Glad we don’t have ford 5.4L 3valve motors… or have to use extended reach plugs- what a drag.
He sure likes to slather on the anti seize - he admits some may argue that choice- I’m one to minimally use hi temp copper antisieze towards the top of the first few threads- but very slight, and I wipe off most of it and ensure nothing gets down by the end or electrode
He sure likes to slather on the anti seize - he admits some may argue that choice- I’m one to minimally use hi temp copper antisieze towards the top of the first few threads- but very slight, and I wipe off most of it and ensure nothing gets down by the end or electrode
- Thread starter
- #10
Do I need the full fuel system cleaner or will chevron fuel injector cleaner do the job?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
44k only. The Chevron s*** doesn’t do anything.
- Thread starter
- #12
I had same issue a long time ago on 1998 mercury sable which no mechanic wanted to touch when I towed it into their shop.
Finally I was able to extract it with this tool:
Amazon product ASIN B072FS3GXDI tapped it gently, used a lot of compressed air (liquid) to freeze the plug area.
Flipping the compressed air can unside down or holding it at angle will get you liquid which freezes.
With that I tried little bit of cranking and freezing it again and again and finally it came out smoothly.
It really depends on where exactly it broke. The most common areas where it tends to break is below the hex socket (due to rust). So you will have the thread area still remaining in place. You can remove the ceramic plug part out with some glue to a thin stick or a long forceps or plier.
I believe freezing will get it out although I read everywhere to use a blow torch to make it hot. I fear that blow torch can cause more damage in the spark plug socket if the heat accidentally melts other wires or hoses.
Patience is the key,
If you still have the hex bolt part stuck in, you can try these extractors:
Amazon product ASIN B083FSBFQ6
Worst case you may need a mechanic to remove the head of the engine and get it extracted at machine shop.
Finally I was able to extract it with this tool:
Amazon product ASIN B072FS3GXDI tapped it gently, used a lot of compressed air (liquid) to freeze the plug area.
Flipping the compressed air can unside down or holding it at angle will get you liquid which freezes.
With that I tried little bit of cranking and freezing it again and again and finally it came out smoothly.
It really depends on where exactly it broke. The most common areas where it tends to break is below the hex socket (due to rust). So you will have the thread area still remaining in place. You can remove the ceramic plug part out with some glue to a thin stick or a long forceps or plier.
I believe freezing will get it out although I read everywhere to use a blow torch to make it hot. I fear that blow torch can cause more damage in the spark plug socket if the heat accidentally melts other wires or hoses.
Patience is the key,
If you still have the hex bolt part stuck in, you can try these extractors:
Amazon product ASIN B083FSBFQ6
Worst case you may need a mechanic to remove the head of the engine and get it extracted at machine shop.
I use more of the 44K, and have for very long time. Toyota Dealership use and sell it. Which on the can states for 10 to 20 gallons. In speaking with local BG rep. He strongly recommend 2 cans with our 25.4 gallon tanks. I does make a difference.
I've used Chevron Techron once. I called Chevron asking about the two they offer. I went with Chevron techron "complete". It's a bit stronger and goes after more. If going with this stuff, and after first treated tank of gas. You still can break #6 loose. I'd either use 44k or Sea-foam.
Each time you try, to loosen plug, move a little than back and forth as suggested above. Add a few more drop of penetrating oil. BTW: PB blaster is my least favorite. I also try with engine hot and cold, mixing it up.
The time I used Chevron techron complet. I also used 44k, Sea-foam fogger, then Cataclean. Doing high RPM HWY runs (Italian burn) during and after each treatment. Other than the fogger, each was used by themselves in the gas tank (didn't mix at same time). I subsequently pulled the intake manifold. WOW intake ports look like near new. Most all the gunk & carbon from valves was going. These products work, each to vary degrees. I can't say which is best. But BG is very trusted here in Denver, always has been.
I use BG EPR & MOA. BG flush and supper cool. BG throttle body cleaner (WOW) hands down beats CRC. BG 44K. I get most all from Toyota. They sell and us nothing but BG.
I'm not very concerned you'd break nut from lower body of spark plug. Those long reach ford plugs are not like our Denso or NGK plugs. I can assure I put 10 or 20 times the torque on our plugs, than what I saw (appeared) in the ford videos.
My saying "Drilling out a spark plug with head on block," was very poor choice of words. Which seem to spark talk about remove a busted plug. Which I doubt that happens, or at least not busting the nut off base.. My first concern is you angle the spark plug wrench so much, you bust he top off spark plug. Then you must get it out. Second concern is threads of head damged. When this happen a tool is used to put a time cert in (new threads). Some metal most times gets in the cylinder., when the procedure used. We don't want that! As to date every time cert I've subsequently test compression behind. Compression was down (out of spec). They tend to get worst with time. Not worst thing, but we don't want this.
My saying "Drilling out a spark plug with head on block," was very poor choice of words. Which seem to spark talk about remove a busted plug. Which I doubt that happens, or at least not busting the nut off base.. My first concern is you angle the spark plug wrench so much, you bust he top off spark plug. Then you must get it out. Second concern is threads of head damged. When this happen a tool is used to put a time cert in (new threads). Some metal most times gets in the cylinder., when the procedure used. We don't want that! As to date every time cert I've subsequently test compression behind. Compression was down (out of spec). They tend to get worst with time. Not worst thing, but we don't want this.
- Thread starter
- #16
I’m going to take a crack at it overtime and leave the plug in for now. Car runs fine just want to get it dealt with. I have Toyota writing me a quote to replace the head (what they said could be a resolution.) for 1300$ A new head sounds like the best plan. What do you think?
That works! Just keep up with 44K and other cleaners for now. BG rep said the 44K can not hurt seals or any engine or fuel system parts. Said he runs every tank. But he gets it free, so why not.
But don't use Anti-seize on our plugs.
I learned my lesson on this. If plug start walking out with the stuff in threads. The stuff cooks and harden in the threads. (Which flips side they stop walking out). I learned the hard way, and have subsequently learn to spot when it has been used. Unless you get to plugs before they walk, which our Denso do walk-out. Your asking for a big headache, as we see here today.
I did same as you @abuck99 on my first restore project "Whitelady". Wipeing off all but a thin coat of anti-seize I put on. About 60K miles later it came to me for a tune-up. What a pain getting those out. The anti-seize work against me. Then another came to me that had anti seize on the plugs. This time I could see a lot of anti seize was used. It's that one, I had to use a 3/4 breaker bar on. Plugs walk about 1/4 to 1/2 turn an froze. Just enough walk, some combustion gas kept escaping on start up or possible some after warm up. I thought for sure, I bust them or damage threads. But with 44k and patient got them out. It took nearly 2 months.
The Denso used nickle IIRC, to keep from galling in our aluminum heads. No anti-seize is needed. It will not help, trust me on this. The only Denso I've had issue with either were cross thread in, or had anti-seize on them.
But don't use Anti-seize on our plugs.
I learned my lesson on this. If plug start walking out with the stuff in threads. The stuff cooks and harden in the threads. (Which flips side they stop walking out). I learned the hard way, and have subsequently learn to spot when it has been used. Unless you get to plugs before they walk, which our Denso do walk-out. Your asking for a big headache, as we see here today.
I did same as you @abuck99 on my first restore project "Whitelady". Wipeing off all but a thin coat of anti-seize I put on. About 60K miles later it came to me for a tune-up. What a pain getting those out. The anti-seize work against me. Then another came to me that had anti seize on the plugs. This time I could see a lot of anti seize was used. It's that one, I had to use a 3/4 breaker bar on. Plugs walk about 1/4 to 1/2 turn an froze. Just enough walk, some combustion gas kept escaping on start up or possible some after warm up. I thought for sure, I bust them or damage threads. But with 44k and patient got them out. It took nearly 2 months.
The Denso used nickle IIRC, to keep from galling in our aluminum heads. No anti-seize is needed. It will not help, trust me on this. The only Denso I've had issue with either were cross thread in, or had anti-seize on them.
- Thread starter
- #18
So MR T said it will be 1300$ for the new head and another 15 hours of labor to install, would you recommend I buy the head from them and have a trusted mechanic install or best to go through them?
if your truck is running fine, just keep using 44K, try to patiently unscrew the sparkplug when its cold. (1st put a bit of pbblast) let is soak and then try.
Next time, try compressed air liquid which literally freezes the area (Apply a lot and lot of it) and then try unscrewing.
Its matter of time and patience than to put on a new head for 1300$ for a working car.
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- #20
So I got the final quote from my local Toyota dealer, they want $5800 for the repair if I want it done. $2300 for the new head and then the remaining for labor. I’m going to wait and see if I get a better quote from the other Toyota dealership near me but I think if it comes down to it I’d rather just buy the head from them and have Gary at mudrak install it. For now I’m just going to keep adding 44K to the fuel and trying to wiggle that spark plug out every few months. Thanks for the help mad boys I’ll update you guys when I figure it out.
