Builds Sean's FJ40 Restomod? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Homemade/Modified throttle pedal bracket. Just hugs around steering column flange but wide enough to give some side to side support.

20200214_192141.jpg


Chose position for rear roll bar.

20200214_192150.jpg


I made the passenger side longer so that I can tie into the frame underneath and not interfere with my fuel filler neck.

20200214_192158.jpg


Mumma doing some sanding before painting the bumper. Sporting the Rosie's Workwear attire I learned about from @BenjaminCA

Basket:

20200214_210051.jpg


Grille:


20200214_210106.jpg
 
Crossmember 2.0, this one allows for a front driveshaft!

20200217_140119.jpg


Wiring from Aussie Tail lights, Why they gotta do everything diffren??? @BenjaminCA

20200217_194915.jpg


Discovered that with aforementioned front driveshaft the oilpan and the driveshaft were likely to become better friends than I would prefer.

20200218_180445.jpg


This is after I burred off a few fins and with the truck at full bottom of travel, clearly not going to cut it.

So, a call to Cummins and 2 days later:
20200220_173416.jpg

Unfortunately Cummins has no clue about any of this repower stuff. So these parts offered on the "R2.8 Shop Cummins" area have no drawings, no support, no instructions, etc. Got help from the facebook R2.8 Engine swap page. This pan is much narrower but deeper at the front, meaning I will have to double check the 3rd member clearance.

Crankshaft!!!

20200220_172915.jpg
 
Thanks to @amico I discovered that Chad from Quick Draw discovered a clearance problem with the inside of the bellhousing and the clutch. I hadn't rotated my engine since I fried the battery with the starter so I had no idea about the problem. Unfortunately I had just that day installed my driveshafts.

Out comes the trans and tcase assembly along with the shafts.

This is what I discovered:

20200220_140436.jpg


The clutch plate was getting stuck at that left scratch and just under the bump on the right.

Chad said that the clutch that he designed based on must have been lower profile than what some people bought. He reached out to everyone who had this bell and offered to send them a machined bell. To me that seemed like a waste of money for shipping AND I would have to wait around for it so I just made the clearance with a burr and a grinder.
20200220_165113.jpg


That entire bump had to go and up to 1/4" x 8" of clearancing. Lots of grinding!!! but it is done.

Tell you what, installing a trans/tcase assembled is a lot tougher than a trans only!!!

Rear roll bar tacked in. It looks weird that it is on an angle but the boss and I agreed that it should follow the angle of the leading edge of the curved window.

20200221_131158.jpg


Eyeballs and park lights. Yes, I know the driver's side is the turn light bulb, this has been switched now!
20200221_182142.jpg


Note the Mishimoto M on the intercooler hiding in the background, I kind of love that!

Power steering lines running behind the winch.



20200221_213913.jpg
 
I had photographic evidence of work this day!

20200221_213948.jpg


PS fluid going in. I went with non-ATF. couldn't find good answers on which to use. Seems liek the engine is new enough to want the new stuff.

20200221_220031.jpg


I tried to start it that night at around 10pm, we were both tired and couldn't get it to work.

Mumma making out with Mattie:


20200221_221128.jpg

In the morning I read the install guide and learned about the hand priming pump in the fuel filter housing. Once I pumped it up (SNL reference), this happened:
20200222_075124.jpg


As I mentioned Cummins proper knows nothing of these engines and parts. It had taken me about 4 months with a Cummins parts guy in Winnipeg to get that connector lying on the floor there, including one pair that I ordered, were wrong and had to return. This one was slightly too big and fuel sprayed all over the place.

I had the straight connector to use instead that did fit but its not as nice as a 90 would be.

Anyway, not sure how to post a video, but yesterday she came to life!!!

I had some wiring gremlins to fix after that:

I shortened all the wires in the cab side harness and had made a mistake with the murphy switch wiring. I had the resistor connected to the ECM but the ODBII and the Murphy connector were only connected to each other! Fixed, then the murphy told me I had no throttle pedal.

I shortened and repinned the throttle cable and the pins didn't lock, so when I pushed it onto the throttle the pins shoved back out of the way. Got it to work now but may need to replace that connector. I learned from the facebook group that you aren't supposed to cut the thottle cable at all, it uses a duplicate signal as a failsafe. So far it is working so I will assume that they are still close enough in length not to cause an issue.

The headlight power pin in the connector was in upside down so when I pushe it on, it pushed the pin back and I had no headlights, now fixed.

No driver's headlight, wires had pulled out of the deutsch pins so I redid them and crimped the small ones twice (one downside of LED lighting, wires are generally quite small).

Reinstalled the driveshafts.
 
I did some more stuff on the basket too.

It has a custom made cable to lock them down and a bar to attach a ratchet strap for tightening them down.

20200219_215525.jpg


Tigged the bars on, this one with the cable inside.

20200219_215450.jpg


I put the lock ring on the underside so it wouldn't be banging and clanging into anything going down the road.

20200219_215459.jpg


My nice r-tubed driveshafts had a weight pop off when I was removing them, I tigged it back on to minimize extra metal I was adding.
20200220_124840.jpg
 
Man that is AWESOME!

Nice work. I'm sorry you had so many issues with those fuel 90s on the Water sensor. I put mine in the other day and they did feel like they clicked in a little too easily... I hope I don't have the same problem.
 
Man that is AWESOME!

Nice work. I'm sorry you had so many issues with those fuel 90s on the Water sensor. I put mine in the other day and they did feel like they clicked in a little too easily... I hope I don't have the same problem.

My problem wasn't on the water sensor, it was the one that connects to the fuel pump from the fuel filter housing. That one is a little smaller than the ones on the fuel filter housing. They only provide a straight version of this connector.
 
My problem wasn't on the water sensor, it was the one that connects to the fuel pump from the fuel filter housing. That one is a little smaller than the ones on the fuel filter housing. They only provide a straight version of this connector.

Oh ok. Yes I have that straight connector. It feels like it's the right one. It snapped on nice and tight
 
Oh ok. Yes I have that straight connector. It feels like it's the right one. It snapped on nice and tight

Yeah, feels right and all but in my setup I would really prefer a 90 there. Not the end of the world but I searched with all kinds of suppliers just based on sizes vs part numbers and no bueno.
 
Love the build. Do you have any updates on it? Would really like to see some photos with the hard top sides on the truck? Thinking of going with the 18" stretch as well.
 
Love the build. Do you have any updates on it? Would really like to see some photos with the hard top sides on the truck? Thinking of going with the 18" stretch as well.

I haven't completed the hard top sides. I have been focused on getting the main body painted and things back together before winter (inflatable spray booth in northern BC!)

It is a ton of work to adapt the sides/top to the 18" stretch.

I have been meaning to do an update on here but it's hard to find time sitting at the computer.
 
Glad to hear it is moving forward! Add some photo's when it gets too cold to paint. Can't wait to see it.
 
I haven't completed the hard top sides. I have been focused on getting the main body painted and things back together before winter (inflatable spray booth in northern BC!)

It is a ton of work to adapt the sides/top to the 18" stretch.

I have been meaning to do an update on here but it's hard to find time sitting at the computer.
I had it running again last week. Redoing wiring logic, finalizing some stuff I hadn't done before. (Brake controller, AC controls, etc)

View attachment 2485541

View attachment 2485542
That green is turning out Great.
 
Wow ... how did I miss this build
Very nice build Salem ... Curious, what diff gears are you running ?
I'm going to have to spend some time going through all the pages

Steve
 
Wow ... how did I miss this build
Very nice build Salem ... Curious, what diff gears are you running ?
I'm going to have to spend some time going through all the pages

Steve

I am using the 3.73s because I have a 5 speed and the R2.8. The 3.73 knocks the highway rpm down by a few hundred RPM iirc. I had 4.10s in both donors so I had to trade for a set of 3.73.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom