- Thread starter
- #301
Plopped the engine in!
The little hoist made it super easy!!
The little hoist made it super easy!!
Builds "Scout" the 1977 FJ40
- Thread starter 77CruiserDog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #302
Got the flywheel back from the machine shop. They machined it and balanced it. Apparently it was out of balance by 18 grams, which isn’t bad according to the machine shop. 60-65 grams is where it would start to be noticeable.
Installed the flywheel and plate with blue Loctite to proper torque specs along with the new Aisin disk after thoroughly cleaning the pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner. Very lightly greased the splines on the clutch and installed it in the correct orientation. The alignment tool comes out pretty easily so lining up the trans should be easy too.
Installed the flywheel and plate with blue Loctite to proper torque specs along with the new Aisin disk after thoroughly cleaning the pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner. Very lightly greased the splines on the clutch and installed it in the correct orientation. The alignment tool comes out pretty easily so lining up the trans should be easy too.
- Thread starter
- #303
Then I took off all of the 90’s era plastic split loom I used on the headlight/driving lights relay harness and replaced it with some cool stuff I found in another build thread.
The stuff on the left is too aftermarket looking for my taste. I think the loom on the right is just more factory looking.
Alex Tech 25ft - 1/2 inch Cord... Amazon product ASIN B07FXF12HC
The stuff on the left is too aftermarket looking for my taste. I think the loom on the right is just more factory looking.
Alex Tech 25ft - 1/2 inch Cord... Amazon product ASIN B07FXF12HC
- Thread starter
- #304
I am going to attach the rear harness to the frame using something I saw on an episode of Roadkill Garage. The clips that normally hold on the harness would scratch the powder coating and these things are simple, clean and super strong!
Amazon product ASIN B08MJQRC7W
Amazon product ASIN B08MJQRC7W
Nice work. Did you end up buying new springs? What did you go with?
avicenna110
SILVER Star
Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #307
Thank you! Not exactly... I'm going to stick with the OME springs I have for now and get some miles on it "as is" so that anything that might come up (drive line vibrations or whatever) can be easily traced back to what I did do, drive line rebuild, trans/xfer case rebuild and so forth.
Another Mud Member gifted me some Skyjacker 4" springs they took off their rig not long ago (Thanks @EmanC ). I'll try those out after I've done some considerable shakedown driving.
Ideally, I'd like to stay at about the same height or perhaps an inch taller as I'm eventually going to the Yoko MT in 255/85/16's with some 16" Racer City wheels. I don't want the stance to be too high but I'd like to have a bit more rubber overdrive.
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- Thread starter
- #308
I refreshed the choke cable a bit by replacing the old cracked cable housing. I secured it by both crimping and using heat shrink tubing to lock it in to the housing on the back of the knob. I just used bike shift cable housing, worked well, we’ll see if it lasts.
I ordered a metal bike cable housing end to finish off the housing at the carb side of things.
I ordered a metal bike cable housing end to finish off the housing at the carb side of things.
- Thread starter
- #309
All of the brake lines are installed, both on the body and on the chassis. I picked up the stainless steel set from Cruiser Corps. They agreed to return the incorrect lines I originally had... amazing customer service from them.
The reproduction stainless steel lines aren't perfect, but they're so dang close that installing them was as simple as unbolting the old ones, putting a tiny layer of anti-seize on the threads of the new ones and tightening them down. I was dreading this task as replacing brake lines on past vehicles has been less than ideal.
This one was the worst example and all it took was a tiny tweak to make it perfect. Easy job!
I attached the fuel line, rear harness and frame rail brake line using stainless steel hardware and various clamps that seemed to be simple and available.
The magnetic wire harness attachments worked like a dream!! I put a fish scale on the magnet and it takes just about 9lbs of pulling pressure to remove the magnet.... these are solid!
The reproduction stainless steel lines aren't perfect, but they're so dang close that installing them was as simple as unbolting the old ones, putting a tiny layer of anti-seize on the threads of the new ones and tightening them down. I was dreading this task as replacing brake lines on past vehicles has been less than ideal.
This one was the worst example and all it took was a tiny tweak to make it perfect. Easy job!
I attached the fuel line, rear harness and frame rail brake line using stainless steel hardware and various clamps that seemed to be simple and available.
The magnetic wire harness attachments worked like a dream!! I put a fish scale on the magnet and it takes just about 9lbs of pulling pressure to remove the magnet.... these are solid!
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- Thread starter
- #310
For some reason, it's really satisfying to bolt on these freshly powder coated parts with new stainless steel hardware and a dab of anti-seize.
Perhaps it's in knowing that future removal of these items should be easy, maybe it's because the pile of parts is getting smaller which means it's nearly done!
Perhaps it's in knowing that future removal of these items should be easy, maybe it's because the pile of parts is getting smaller which means it's nearly done!
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- Thread starter
- #311
Here's the last of the freshly powder coated items...
I installed the radiator too, it's starting to resemble a vehicle!
I'm dang near to the point where I can't go any further without the trans and transfer case. I called TORFAB for a progress report and they said they might be done tomorrow or early next week. I'd say that's not bad progress considering I started 24 days ago! Hands down the one tool that helped me the most was the invaluable information that people have shared on this site. Thank you to everyone who has shared their knowledge here, it makes projects like this very approachable.
In a few years I'll go through the bottom half of the engine and have the body blasted and painted, maybe even go through the axles. But for now it's going to get put back together and taken on adventures!
I installed the radiator too, it's starting to resemble a vehicle!
I'm dang near to the point where I can't go any further without the trans and transfer case. I called TORFAB for a progress report and they said they might be done tomorrow or early next week. I'd say that's not bad progress considering I started 24 days ago! Hands down the one tool that helped me the most was the invaluable information that people have shared on this site. Thank you to everyone who has shared their knowledge here, it makes projects like this very approachable.
In a few years I'll go through the bottom half of the engine and have the body blasted and painted, maybe even go through the axles. But for now it's going to get put back together and taken on adventures!
- Thread starter
- #313
Thanks cbmontgo!
Nope, they were there when I disassembled, I just cleaned it up with some steel wool. I assume they're factory.
- Thread starter
- #314
Well, I have some time on my hands as I checked with TORFAB and my trans/transfer case won’t be done for a couple more weeks. Not a problem, it just gives me time to work on other things on Scout.
One of those is the ambulance door weather stripping. I picked up some of the awesome City Racer weather strips a couple of years ago and after trying the two types of 3M weather strip adhesives, I was never happy with the results. To put it mildly I hated the process, the finished product and the mess.
Some of the piss poor results could be attributed to me, but even after following the procedures on his website to a T… I felt like it looked as though two blind people put them on with their feet in a windstorm.
They were also prone to coming off in areas if you opened the doors, shut the doors or looked at them.
One day while looking through the Cruiser Corps website I found this stuff…
Today I tried it out with amazing results.
Here is the process I used.
First I pulled off the new weather stripping from one of the doors, they practically fell off.
Then I rolled off all of the 3M adhesive and cleaned the weather stripping with this stuff.
Then this stuff
Then did the same on the door until it was squeaky clean.
Then, working in about 6” sections I applied a small amount of the glue to the door and held the weather strip in place for 10 seconds. Then I sprayed a little of the accelerator on the seam and bam. That stuff works really well. The weatherstripping is PERMANENTLY attached.
ZERO MESS.
ZERO CLIPS.
I could literally lift up the entire rear ambulance door by the weather strip!!!
I plan on doing the other doors this way too. This stuff rocks. I think I need one bottle for two doors.
I’ll let you know how it works out in the long run but I’m confident this is the best way to attach weather stripping.
3M weather stripping adhesive can rot in hell.
One of those is the ambulance door weather stripping. I picked up some of the awesome City Racer weather strips a couple of years ago and after trying the two types of 3M weather strip adhesives, I was never happy with the results. To put it mildly I hated the process, the finished product and the mess.
Some of the piss poor results could be attributed to me, but even after following the procedures on his website to a T… I felt like it looked as though two blind people put them on with their feet in a windstorm.
They were also prone to coming off in areas if you opened the doors, shut the doors or looked at them.
One day while looking through the Cruiser Corps website I found this stuff…
Today I tried it out with amazing results.
Here is the process I used.
First I pulled off the new weather stripping from one of the doors, they practically fell off.
Then I rolled off all of the 3M adhesive and cleaned the weather stripping with this stuff.
Then this stuff
Then did the same on the door until it was squeaky clean.
Then, working in about 6” sections I applied a small amount of the glue to the door and held the weather strip in place for 10 seconds. Then I sprayed a little of the accelerator on the seam and bam. That stuff works really well. The weatherstripping is PERMANENTLY attached.
ZERO MESS.
ZERO CLIPS.
I could literally lift up the entire rear ambulance door by the weather strip!!!
I plan on doing the other doors this way too. This stuff rocks. I think I need one bottle for two doors.
I’ll let you know how it works out in the long run but I’m confident this is the best way to attach weather stripping.
3M weather stripping adhesive can rot in hell.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
I was reminded of the CA Glue option while watching a 40channel episode.
It does work amazingly well!
It does work amazingly well!
- Thread starter
- #316
I wish someone would have told me about the superglue thing before I tried all the different 3M stuff. Thanks for sharing this link to the video series for this build!
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Been a fair amount about the weatherstrip glue issues, good you found a solution that works. I’ve not had any issues with the 3M stuff, but one thing only I can see that’s different in my setups is I’m applying to old, original paint (mostly), or deglossed new paint. So I wonder if this is a paint/finish compatibility thing. Great work on this build!
- Thread starter
- #318
Thanks Middlecalf! Did you also use OEM rubber? I'm using City Racer weather strips, which are super nice, but I wonder if that's also one of the differences....
middlecalf
SILVER Star
I used City Racer’s too. There’s been a number of posts wrt issues with some of the 3M glues, but CR’s pretty specific about which one should be used with his weatherstrip. And that’s what I used, can’t remember offhand what it is but it’s posted on his website. I just wonder if there’s also issues with high gloss finishes, none of my rigs have high gloss 
and the weatherstrip has stuck well.
and the weatherstrip has stuck well.
- Thread starter
- #320
Yep, I used both 3M 8008 and 8011 both were not even close to reasonable results. HA! My paint does still have a tiny bit of gloss to it. Don't let the outside of the rig fool you, the "restoration shop" only painted the outside and only some of the outside at that... all of the surfaces I glued to were very much either original paint or 20 year old respray.. hard to tell.I used City Racer’s too. There’s been a number of posts wrt issues with some of the 3M glues, but CR’s pretty specific about which one should be used with his weatherstrip. And that’s what I used, can’t remember offhand what it is but it’s posted on his website. I just wonder if there’s also issues with high gloss finishes, none of my rigs have high gloss
When I removed the weather stripping from the ambulance doors, they both pulled off with ease. HA!However, with the super glue I can lift either ambulance door by the weather strip and it just stays put! So stoked. The best part is it's instant, no mess and no fumes. Such a different experience.
