Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

[REZARF]

when you power wash the under-body, do you use any decreasing solvents through the power washer or are you washing off loose grime then hand cleaning with the de-greaser?

Im not trying to cur corners, but if i could feed the de-greaser through the PW that would be good.

Have you ever tried to use a de-greaser mix of some type in your foam lance on the PW?

l

Not to hi-jack the OP but I use Oil Eater, I spray heavy stuff on the undercarriage straight but put a diluted mix in my pressure washer to break up grime. I just wouldn't use it on paint... At all

 

[KYLandy]

So, we are back to the fuel pressure issue. Seems easy enough to replace it but if testing is fine, then why should it be replaced? I'm not convinced yet on this one. I know your experience proves otherwise but it seems like there should be a code set if the fuel pump is weak or the PR is weak.

On a related note, my 1997 F350 (uses speed density not MAF) has a bug in it where the ECU will check the manifold air pressure when it first starts up and adjust the mixture accordingly. The ECU will monitor the MAP sensor but it can only adjust the A/F mix so much relative to the base pressure recorded at startup. Once the engine is restarted, a new base pressure is recorded and more adjustment can take place. It is a poorly documented issue for my truck but I can attest to it while climbing up to the Eisenhower tunnel on I-70 in the same spot. If I pull over, shut the engine off and restart it, it has more power for climbing. I wonder if the PO of your LC was experiencing something similar. Granted, my truck is NOT a MAF engine so I would not expect this issue from a MAF sensor. I know it seems far-fetched since my truck is much older but I am just spit-balling here.

 

[tacoduck]

I had o2 issues on my 07lx470. changed the o2 sensors both up and downstream. fixed my CEL. By the way, engine cleared the light in 20 seconds. Id been told it could take 24-48 hours and drive cycles for the CEL to go off. took 20 seconds...

 

[2001LC]

So, we are back to the fuel pressure issue. Seems easy enough to replace it but if testing is fine, then why should it be replaced? I'm not convinced yet on this one. I know your experience proves otherwise but it seems like there should be a code set if the fuel pump is weak or the PR is weak.

On a related note, my 1997 F350 (uses speed density not MAF) has a bug in it where the ECU will check the manifold air pressure when it first starts up and adjust the mixture accordingly. The ECU will monitor the MAP sensor but it can only adjust the A/F mix so much relative to the base pressure recorded at startup. Once the engine is restarted, a new base pressure is recorded and more adjustment can take place. It is a poorly documented issue for my truck but I can attest to it while climbing up to the Eisenhower tunnel on I-70 in the same spot. If I pull over, shut the engine off and restart it, it has more power for climbing. I wonder if the PO of your LC was experiencing something similar. Granted, my truck is NOT a MAF engine so I would not expect this issue from a MAF sensor. I know it seems far-fetched since my truck is much older but I am just spit-balling here.

You know I'm not big on just throwing parts at an issue. But PO's issues did not re-accrue and bank 2 CAT is good, it has been so for passed 100K miles now. No change to MAF or EUC, just fuel pump replaced!

You've checked everything I can think of, not much left is there. Keep in mind a very good Toyota shop one of the largest (they see a lot of Land Cruiser) checked this fuel pump repeatedly and founded nothing wrong, but replaced it anyway.

We've both read of issue with the 06 fuel pump here in mud, or I have!

 

[2001LC]

Have you ever tried to use a de-greaser mix of some type in your foam lance on the PW?

Need to get one of those foam lances!

l

Not to hi-jack the OP but I use Oil Eater, I spray heavy stuff on the undercarriage straight but put a diluted mix in my pressure washer to break up grime. I just wouldn't use it on paint... At all

Not heard of that stuff.

 

[2001LC]

So I've been cleaning and cleaning the undercarriage including wheel wheels, more than doing anything else. I scooped up 5 7 shovel's full of gravel beyond what washed away. Seems rig had been in some Rock Mountain mud at some point. Likely when PO's home was being building in the Vail CO area. Road I took to his home was newer, high up a hill (end of development) on North side of I-70.

Cleaning included power washing inside frame rails with a snake attachment. Thanks @benjawi4 for the snake, it came in handy making all the way, actual came out the front:

Still getting mud/gravel coming off undercarriage after 7 washes.

 

[2001LC]

I've now got a good handle on what needs to been done. At this point I'm not seeing much more than my pre-purchase inspection revealed, or experience has taught me. I've have confirmed some gray area; like DTC's were nothing more than a weak battery, and rubber of all boots look good. I'll find somethings as I do mechanical tear down, and exterior & interior detail which is normal, but shouldn't be anything big. I'll be replacing parts that are no longer serviceable (not to FSM spec) as I go though PM scheduled from 0 to 120K miles.

What I've done so far (other than power washing, man I spend so much time cleaning):

• Removed rear bumper & trailer hitch for frame cleaning & inspecting proposes.
• Inspected exterior end to end for leaks, rust & missing parts. Inters looks good, will know more as I pull apart for cleaning.
• Changed oil & filter and lube propellers & spiders with Mobil One. Will re-flush (change oil)
• Cleaned MAF.
• Resealed fuse box.
• Cleaned battery with baking soda, cleaned & greased post. Fully charged.
• Cleaned reservoir & flushed power steering w/M1 MV full synthetic ATF. FWIW: Steering Flush & Cleaning Will be re-flushing if work on HP line is needed.
• AHC system flushed. AHC very low, will off button keep pump from running?
• AHC pressures lowered in front, from 7.4 to 6.9 Mpg. By cranking up torsion bars.
• AHC reservoir level change more than 11 grads from H to L.
• AHC Test rise & lower time N to H 9 secs. & H to N 6 secs. (FSM up time 15 secs. or less, Down time 10 secs. or less)
• Air filter replaced, with my shop K&N for now.
• Looked over engine, drive train & undercarriage for missing or damaged parts. "looks good"
• Clear DTC. Sweet they didn't come back. Looks as @jerryb nailed that one, THX! DTC report AHC C1718 & C1776, ABS C1223 & C1241
• Brake booster pump test from empty ~34 secs. FSM is 30 to 40 secs. Sweet

What I've found that need attention, that I'll be doing:

1. Paint needs perfecting, found standard chip, swirls & no wax. Body surprisingly good condition with very dings. Bumper normal scraps.
2. Detailing undercarriage with wire brushes etc. & marine grease.
3. Headlight & other lenses need polishing.
4. Windshield side molding needs R&R.
5. Hood struts are weak.
6. Clean spark plugs & inspect.
7. Timing belt & water pump, no issues it's just passed due. Last done at 96K.
8. Power steering HP line needs R&R as was oil in one spot after cleaning. Will have shop pressure fit a hose on if I can, if oil spot returns after 2nd cleaning.
9. Clean throttle body.
10. Drive belt tensioner pulley needs further inspecting. Will most likely replace bearing, they always seem to need replacing.
11. Drive belt idler pulley bearing chirping.
12. Oil leak at dip stick O-ring. This seems to be common and oh so easy a fix once cleaned. (I need to check the King for this one).
13. Coolant due for flush.
14. Heater tees look tried.
15. Gear boxes (all) due for gear lube change.
16. Wheel bearing due for service.
17. Both inner drive shaft CV boots need re-clamping at inner (small) band. (No cracks on boot)
18. Fine tune AHC (with the help of @PADDO hopefully), I'm still learning these AHC system.
19. Front shock is oily (leak). Probable just need flush & adjust as @PADDO said, watching now.
20. Repair or remove Slee Off Road AHC override switch, appears it may have come loose.
21. Brake fluid, due for flush.
22. Brake peddle adjustment. Feels a little short.
23. Inspect and replace as needed all bleeder caps (brakes & AHC) All are in place, just something I'll be doing form now on. I'll spray with water the inspect for moisture under cap, " my water leak test".
24. Auto Climate control transition either hot or cold. Although heating & cooling works.
25. Three broken bolts need R&R (undercarriage shield & rear hook)
26. Skid plated rust from water soaking of vibration dampener. Is this necessary- Skid plate foam pad? I'll replace skid plate with OEM, but not foam pad (I quit using the foam pad)
27. Carpet could use cleaning. Not bad but still worth the effort.
28. Seat leather & plastic cleaning & condition include removing plastic. Not bad at all, but worth the effort.
29. Tire are snows with object(s) penetrating at least one. Replace with my Tundra wheels & tires with 5/32" of thread.
30. One clip missing from wheel well plastic. Only one..WOW.
31. Wiper arm paint chips, less than most.
32. Lots of cleaning & recondition as usual.
33. Little stuff not listed as found Like recondition parts, re-torquing bolt and replace fasteners..you know what I mean!

Plan of attack:

Will be ordering parts as I start on detailing.
I'll be following list servicing all items one by one.
I'll repair or replace parts that don't meet spec on above list and others which would come up in normal PM run through.

Exception that are low on my list, depending on time:

1. Auto climate control, as it works well manually. But I suspect it's and easy fix, as @LXColorado pointed me to and did (thx by the way). Personally I never use the Auto function, as I found not using it saves me about 10% on gasoline. That is ~$2k in savings since I've had The King. The reason is: fan is always on and AC compression is on most of time with AUTO set on, which takes horse power.
2. DVD player. I've not even checked it yet. Not something I'd use, and today most with kids have HD LCD screen in their hands (phone, ipad, tables etc..) I've also heard of (not confirmed) of parasitic battery drain form them. Redbaron had the headrest DVD players I just pulled out, This one has drop down. It's my understand these player are not factory installed, which I know is the case with headrest DVD players.
3. Unexposed to bare metal paint chips, are low priority.

Some stuff I'd consider extra will see about doing as work progresses. Stuff that is OK but ageing or not needed until next schedule service, yet hidden that may be nice to get done or just to get out of the way now. Such as:

• Front & rear stabilizer system. Generally done when a link breaks
• Fan bracket, just because of age, if meets spec.
• PVC hoses, look good but age unknown.
• PVC valve, works fine.
• Cabin air filters. To many choice depending on preference and level of protection desired.
• Cam & crank seals, as not normally leaking and no sign any leak from weep hole.
• Belt Tensioners. Normal good and appear to be.
• Intake manifold gasket. Doesn't have grim build up on all plumes as Redbaron did on every intake port plume and area. But not a bad idea to replace.
• Fuel injector cleaning, rebuild & tested along with bottom seals (at intake). This is a nice way to go: Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO (FSI). Not a bad idea, just not a factory PM: When to replace fuel injectors .
• Replace fuel pressure regulator. This is something new that was brought to my attention by @spressomon. I've not ever replaced or tested fuel PR, but I find this interesting. Also apparently Chuck at FIS feels this one will save gasoline, I'm all for that. Not to mention a better A/F ratio not over working ECU, sound like a very good thing to do. Match with fresh fuel injectors service would be sweet!
• Re-boot front drive shafts CV's, rubber is good but aged.
• Thermostat. No indication needed, but aged.
• Gas cap. No indication needed, but aged.
• Radiator cap. No indication needed, but aged.
• Fluid film anti rust or similar oil on undercarriage and in frame rails.

Addition extra which shouldn't need re-done, that I found done while doing DD on history.

• Transmission was flushed at 150K miles with Valvoline synthetic. Not due ever by according to Toyota standards, due in another 25K by "some" standards. I'll check level & smell with one can of WS ATF. Then decision can then be made if to flush again or not.
• Spark plugs were replaced 44K miles ago, nice to align with time belt job schedule. Number one killer of pricey coils are bad spark plug (wide gap).
• Front & rear brake pads (OEM) & rotors done at 163K. No need provided pads aren't below minimums. I'll be pulling all rotors and calipers to inspect, after what I found on Redbaron. But shop that did this has checkout as a good shop. I'll reserve my judge on them until I see into their work.
• Alternator replaced at 121K with re-manufactured Denso. Sweet!
• Fuel filter replaced at 150K (44K ago).
• Fuel pump done at 97K.
• CAT bank #1 replaced at 96K.
• Both rear AHC globes replaced at 71K.
• Battery 75 mo from NAPA dated 1/30/15.

No doubt I'll have some addition, updates and edited here once my eyes can focus again. Sorry for long post 6/7/17 Edited today to clean up typos.....

 

[REZARF]

Wow dude, get 'er done!

I might need to drop off my 312k mile cruiser off for your spa treatment! Keep it up, this will be a beauty when you're done.

 

[2001LC]

Wow 312K that is impressive, bring it on!

 

[looking4lc]

You know I'm not big on just throwing parts at an issue. But PO's issues did not re-accrue and bank 2 CAT is good, it has been so for passed 100K miles now. No change to MAF or EUC, just fuel pump replaced!

You've checked everything I can think, not much left is there. Keep in mind a very good Toyota shop one of the largest (they see a lot of Land Cruiser) checked this fuel pump and founded nothing wrong, but replaced it anyway.

i had the fuel pump issue as it stalls when it gets hot. possibly mechanic checked the fuel pump and tested ok when its cold but when driving for awhile, it gets very hot and stop supplying fuel and shut off the engine.
never stalled after replacing the fuel pump.

 

[2001LC]

i had the fuel pump issue as it stalls when it gets hot. possibly mechanic checked the fuel pump and tested ok when its cold but when driving for awhile, it gets very hot and stop supplying fuel and shut off the engine.
never stalled after replacing the fuel pump.

Interesting. I can only say Dealer records show testing was done several times during July & August driving I-70 at those times. One would assume hot summer days, but Colorado Rocky at tree-line, temperatures can vary widely.

 

[khoaiii]

@2001LC
I read some of your work, epic. Wish you could make some videos and share them via youtube.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC
I read some of your work, epic. Wish you could make some videos and share them via youtube.

Hello,

Thank you for your kind words!

At one time we could drop videos directly in mud. I've stop posting them since I can't any longer..

I do use short videos for things like inspecting steering racks, ball joints & TRE. It's great inspection tool when working alone.

A GoPro mounted to undercarriage to inspect bushing, suspension & shafts would be handy. I need one of those in my tool box's.

Is there something in particular your interested in viewing?

 

[geanes]

@2001LC ....

• Brake booster pump test from empty ~34 secs. FSM is 30 to 40 secs. Sweet

Please elaborate...very interested in this as I know it can be a HUGE cost.

 

[aging fleet]

1. Auto climate control...... Personally I never use the Auto function, as I found not using it saves me about 10% on gasoline. That is ~$2k in savings since I've had The King. The reason is: fan is always on and AC compression is on most of time with AUTO set on, which takes horse power.

I'm not a fan of the compressor running either.

In case you didn't know, you can be on the Auto setting with the AC turned off. Just hit "Auto" then navigate to the Climate Control screen, and turn the AC off with the on-screen button. The climate control will remain on Auto but the compressor wont run. It will hold this setting until you switch out of Auto mode (you won't need to turn off the AC every time you start the car).

I have my climate control set this way most days unless I need to defrost or it's hot and I want to run the AC.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC ....

• Brake booster pump test from empty ~34 secs. FSM is 30 to 40 secs. Sweet

Please elaborate...very interested in this as I know it can be a HUGE cost.

Turn off key. Pump breaks 40 times. Now turn key to on, at this time booster pump will start. Time pump from start until you hear it stop. It may start an stop briefly a few times, your interested in total time.

You'll see level drop as booster fills:

Note: You'll feel peddle pressure drop as fluid leaves (evacuates) booster pump filling brake fluid reservoir. I'll normally feel pressure drop around ~30 pumps on brake peddle. Brake fluid level is set to max or below at this time (As Stated on reservoir). Never top off fluid without evacuating booster.

I'm not a fan of the compressor running either.

In case you didn't know, you can be on the Auto setting with the AC turned off. Just hit "Auto" then navigate to the Climate Control screen, and turn the AC off with the on-screen button. The climate control will remain on Auto but the compressor wont run. It will hold this setting until you switch out of Auto mode (you won't need to turn off the AC every time you start the car).

Thanks, I keep turning off Auto and hadn't notice A/C stays off when left in AUTO mode. There are many things I like about the NAV systems like; hands free blue tooth, back-up camera, maintenance settings etc.. But I do not like that I must turn on NAV screen to change temp setting. But that's me!

I've the no NAV three dial set-up in my 01 (The King) that I've become accustom to. I set heat to high just by turning dial (fan off). Then set air to out side air. Fresh air then passes over the heater core warming the cabin. The fresh air general eliminates the need for defrost. Then I turn on seat heat (my favorite winter button)

To be clear I found just running the cabin fan robs Horse Power, which reduce MPG. Even more so when running compressor of A/C & cabin fan combined.

 

[2001LC]

Here some pre-detail pictures. I think this one will turn out as good or better than WhiteLady did once done detailing, which I'm estimating 100 hours for. Body trim polishing & correcting compounds Not including the undercarriage & engine bay which I've spent ~20 hours on (so far) cleaning.

I'm pulling more and more parts off as I get ready to detail. It started with hub caps, then rear bumper & hitch. Next will be interior plastic to scrub & give me full access to carpet. I've got a place that has a dry carpet (water-less) cleaning machine. It works so good, that I've cleaned some carpet that look beyond hope that came out perfect. This one should turn out great as it not bad at all. Dry carpet shampoo cleaner soap is so strong I wear my respirator. I even drive back to my garage wearing it after I'm done. But once I vacuum out a few time, carpet is fresh and clean with out any smelling. Not that this rig smelt, in fact it has no smells at all now.

I'll do my first body wash this weekend with a wax striping de-greasing, dish soap. Dish soap is not recommend for every day use of body paint. But is a good first step before clay bar which is used to get impurities out of the paint. Clay bar is a must before using my DA buffer and cutting compound, if paint fail the hand-in-the-plastic-bag test. Any girt feel as fingers pass over paint while in the bag, is a failed test. If it fails (feels gritty) I'll then work with some medium clay & possible some heavy grad.

If thing go well I hit with cutting compound Sunday. I like to start with cut before I work the imperfect like rock chip and deep scratches. This allows/helps me see the paint better. Some consider this a waste of time, as I'll need to come back over paint again with cutting compound after I work the paint chips. Working chips' is my least favorite thing. It's days and day of micro grind every spec of rust out of chips. I use a hand held microscope to inspect each chip for rust, time and time again as I grind just a tiny bit each pass. Then I use a self etching primer before the touch up paint. One goof and I wipe out paint from chip and start again. I let coats dry 24 hours between each coats. Each chip take 3 to 5 coats. It's a very long process. Be nice if @landylover21 posted some helpful chip repair info, he's mention he may....please. I'll bet you've got some great tips..

The chip under the head light are my worst. I may just replace those molding pieces.
It had a Toyota bug shield that I removed, or the leading edge of hood would have been badly chipped as well. In Colorado we see a lot of bug/gravel shields.

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]