Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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Couvi
SILVER Star
Wow, can't wait to see how this one turns out -- you're work, and attention to detail is phenomenal. Have you ever removed small dings/divets from the exterior? I have a few small ones and was wondering if you have a technique.
$$$$
- Thread starter
- #48
Small things with big consequence! .........Rubber bleeder caps........
Here's a bad one on a rear brake caliper. Rear's I find bad more often than fronts.
I'll be going back over bleeder caps of hydraulics (brakes & AHC) 9 in all, before washing undercarriage again. I knew some were were bad and needed replacing but all caps were on bleeders, which is great to see. I learned my lesson on the Redbaron to look close and make sure all rubber caps are not only in place, in good condition but also "water tight". Inspecting each cap before washing undercarriage then again afterwards for moisture is my new PM inspection.
I'll also being doing bleeding early so gives me plenty of time to watch for weeping/leaky bleeders afterwards. That gives me time to sources parts like bleeders or for rebuilding calipers if needed. As any moisture in bleeders will damage bleeder and may damage caliper. That little cap missing or just not water tight can lead to lots of extra work & expense.
It's also best to inspect caps before bleeding (one more lesson), as the bleeder themselves hold a drop or two of fluid after bleeding. Which I'll now blow out with HP air when done bleeding. This should get 90% of fluid (brake or suspension) out of cavity of bleeder. Helps to reduce false leak indication.
This one bleeder will need watching as the fluid may just be from spillage during bleeding, time will tell. It was also the third cap I found bad.
I suppose I could just swap them all out as PM without inspecting, but parts especially OEM parts add up $$. My Toyota Dealer parts guy stated no one orders more small parts then I. On Redbaron I had a bucket full of small Toyota plastic bags left over from small parts, hundreds of dollars worth. So I do work at just replacing those parts that don't pass inspection. Many of those small bags were from broken clip, missing fastener or nuts from prior work, along with bleeder & bleeder caps. Nice think about Snowy, he's a virgin (Untouched Jewell), well nearly a virgin
that I'm not seeing broken or missing small parts from speed freak mechanic's.
In this case I only found the two rear brake bleeder & the accumulator caps bad. All other were tight, flexible, and water tight. But some had micro cracks: 6 of 9 pass and could be kept for next inspection PM, but I'll most likely be order a complete set this time, will make for nice PM base-line. Hard to see but appears to have two micro cracks, tough call, when in doubt.... replace!
Also found a wire harness that could use re-taping. Pictures are so helpful during inspection.
Here's a bad one on a rear brake caliper. Rear's I find bad more often than fronts.
I'll be going back over bleeder caps of hydraulics (brakes & AHC) 9 in all, before washing undercarriage again. I knew some were were bad and needed replacing but all caps were on bleeders, which is great to see. I learned my lesson on the Redbaron to look close and make sure all rubber caps are not only in place, in good condition but also "water tight". Inspecting each cap before washing undercarriage then again afterwards for moisture is my new PM inspection.
I'll also being doing bleeding early so gives me plenty of time to watch for weeping/leaky bleeders afterwards. That gives me time to sources parts like bleeders or for rebuilding calipers if needed. As any moisture in bleeders will damage bleeder and may damage caliper. That little cap missing or just not water tight can lead to lots of extra work & expense.
It's also best to inspect caps before bleeding (one more lesson), as the bleeder themselves hold a drop or two of fluid after bleeding. Which I'll now blow out with HP air when done bleeding. This should get 90% of fluid (brake or suspension) out of cavity of bleeder. Helps to reduce false leak indication.
This one bleeder will need watching as the fluid may just be from spillage during bleeding, time will tell. It was also the third cap I found bad.
I suppose I could just swap them all out as PM without inspecting, but parts especially OEM parts add up $$. My Toyota Dealer parts guy stated no one orders more small parts then I. On Redbaron I had a bucket full of small Toyota plastic bags left over from small parts, hundreds of dollars worth. So I do work at just replacing those parts that don't pass inspection. Many of those small bags were from broken clip, missing fastener or nuts from prior work, along with bleeder & bleeder caps. Nice think about Snowy, he's a virgin (Untouched Jewell), well nearly a virgin
that I'm not seeing broken or missing small parts from speed freak mechanic's.In this case I only found the two rear brake bleeder & the accumulator caps bad. All other were tight, flexible, and water tight. But some had micro cracks: 6 of 9 pass and could be kept for next inspection PM, but I'll most likely be order a complete set this time, will make for nice PM base-line. Hard to see but appears to have two micro cracks, tough call, when in doubt.... replace!
Also found a wire harness that could use re-taping. Pictures are so helpful during inspection.
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- Thread starter
- #49
It was such a nice evening, I decided to pull wheels and inspect brake rotors & pads, and get sneak peak at how last wheel bearing service was bearing done. They pads & rotor are near new looking very good. I will be during a bearing service so front rotor will get a good inspect on both sides. One more lesson I learned on Redbaron is to pull rear rotor to inspect back side. So I'll being doing that here. But this inspection give me good handle on first parts list I'm working on. I also wanted to swap out those snow tires & LC wheels for my Tundra's. I know the ride they'll give is smooth and quite, which also aids inspection.
Rear rotors are newer, but e'brake adjuster rubber plugs are missing on both sides: Count one against shop that did last brake job! But looks like they used good parts.
Pads look good on fronts side, but there's more mud. I'll be pulling caliper to clean and inspect, before bleeding brakes.
Only one tire had puncture that I've found this time. Front Tire wear pattern wasn't to bad. Seeing more wear on inner seem to be what I find. This aren't bad at all considering indication is they never were rotated, as rear have twice the tread depth on them.
Finished the evening getting the Tundra wheels & tires on.
Rear rotors are newer, but e'brake adjuster rubber plugs are missing on both sides: Count one against shop that did last brake job! But looks like they used good parts.
Pads look good on fronts side, but there's more mud. I'll be pulling caliper to clean and inspect, before bleeding brakes.
Only one tire had puncture that I've found this time. Front Tire wear pattern wasn't to bad. Seeing more wear on inner seem to be what I find. This aren't bad at all considering indication is they never were rotated, as rear have twice the tread depth on them.
Finished the evening getting the Tundra wheels & tires on.
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- Thread starter
- #50
But before finishing I took a sneak peak at front axle hub flange snap ring gaps. Found both sides too wide at .30mm that is .10mm over spec. Last wheel bearing service was ~30K ago, so I feel gap should not have been that wide if job done correctly. So I suspect these are factory snap rings, should be replacement's by now. Will see when I do wheel bearing service, but that is possible two counts against last shop to work on. As they did brakes (missing e-brake rubber plugs & bad bleeders) along with wheel bearing service. I'll no more once I completely tear down. Still they seem better than most shops.
That cap has seen better days.
Also better view of front drive shaft boots, confirming my findings that CV boots are ok. Just leaking at the one band on each side.
Also better view of front drive shaft boots, confirming my findings that CV boots are ok. Just leaking at the one band on each side.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Me too (can'y wait).
Been many years since I did any real body (took auto body & paint classes as a teenager), or dent removal. I've seen some interest techniques on you-tube for DIY like heat & cooling to pop out. But the paint less dent removal guys have some amassing tools these day. On my 01 I had shop do Paint less dent repair 14 years ago, with over a dozen dings, can't see a one now. Well except new one's, OUCH.
I saw only two very minor door dings next to each other on this one, that's why bodies a 9+. Well I though I did, as I couldn't find last I looked. I will be doing a minor body job to rear quarter at mud flap fastener and body. I find some minor damage on near every rig behind rear bumper skin, even The King has some. It's not a great design, as bumper support hits body (see Redbaron) or mud flap(s) get ground. Both do some damage that needs attention. Not a big deal, the key is preventing rust by de-rusting then painting any bare metal starting with self etching primer. Just as paint chip that show metal.
Rear PS mud flap fastener hole needs some loving..
Looks like I'll be spraying rubberize undercoating in wheel well also. I've can around here somewhere, was used for The Kings last touch up. Rear wheel well are just one more little PM that s a good idea for a long life.
Redbaron turned out very nice in ride, handling & mechanical. I saved time not detailing paint or undercarriage, by request. This one I hope to be more efficient with time, and as said do detail or majority to start with. That way if some wants to contract it now for purchase, I can avoid going over things twice, I hope.
Thanks my friend!
If I get time, I've several members & neighbors been asking me to detail, PM or even more (SPA treatment)
Was nice to see grease pass seal. Notice the color at tip of grease gun on zerk. That's the moly in #1 grease. I've found a little in slip yoke of propeller shaft mixed with the M1 #2 grease to be a nice touch.
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This attention to detail is just flat out incredible, next time anyone I know needs an LC, I'm sending them to you!
- Thread starter
- #54
Thanks buck. I did zoom in and crop for that picture posting and made reference to the micro cracks.
I don't think it's "dry rot" just normal cracking, actual better than normal for age. Rubber felt surprisingly good actually. Regardless, leak is at clamp not boot rubber. Final call will be when I pull knuckle for wheel bearing, axle bearing & bushing R&R. I've some play in flange, not bad but i'll match up axle with new hub flange to see condition of axle teeth, whether they are passable for age or not. If the boot is margin-able & teeth of axle are too, a rebuilt from CVJ may make senses.
For now I'll budget just clamps & one boot kit. I need the kit as at minimum for factory grease/lube. I'll inject some factory grease in and re clamp is current plan. It looks as one side lost ~ two table spoons and the other three. Only way to get factory grease is in kit. So I may just reboot anyway as i'll have, they're ~$35 IIRC. Beside I have the new clamp tool just waiting to be used.
One of my bigger concerns is the high pressure power steering line. I recall reading about shop that can pressure fit new hoses on. Have you seen that link?
Thank you, that is very kind of you to say.
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If you'll be tearing it down to the knuckle, you're already there to easily pull the cv. If it were me, I'd reboot them. It's an extra hour for each side to RR. Even if you're going to spin this rig when your done baselining, it will be a nice selling benefit to the new owner.
Fyi I think the boot kits are approx $50 Ea now.
Let me ask about flanges: What kind of added life would you expect out of swapping them from side to side?
Fyi I think the boot kits are approx $50 Ea now.
Let me ask about flanges: What kind of added life would you expect out of swapping them from side to side?
- Thread starter
- #56
Good question; Swapping "sides" of hub flange, was idea CVJ & I came up with or a call one day. Not really adding life, but rather reducing play. The idea being, by change direction of travel we're put the least worn side into direction of travel. Really I've found the amount of reduction in play is very minimal at best. A new hub flange will reduce play more "generally", it depends on condition of teeth of both the axle & hub flange.
But even a hub flange with badly worn teeth can last a very long time, provide wheel bearings and snap ring gap are keep tight.
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- Thread starter
- #57
Snowy basking in the sun today all lathered up with Leatherique!
The leather is so much nicer then the pictures show, i'm so jealous. As I rubbed in the Leatherique I couldn't believe how good the leather felt. It's the best I've seen, the cracks seem to just be in the dye for the most part. The seat were so clean I didn't even need vacuuming. I only found one or two grains of sand as on rubbed with the Leatherique. It must of had been detail recently. Even so, that wouldn't make seats leather feel so good. I'd really would like to know whats been used on them over the years.
I angle the sun shade to increase heat of sun, while keeping sun off leather the best I can. With the dark window film (looks cool) I'm turning Snowy to face the sun best I can through the day.
While Snowy basked in the sun I washed undercarriage again. I found my long reach 90 deg spray wand difficult to reach on top of frame and stuff with. I could have saved a great deal of time washing with a shorter length 90 deg wand.
Next I'll pull plastic off carpet as I clean off Leatherique with step two of the process. Then vacuum and "Dry" shampoo carpet.
The leather is so much nicer then the pictures show, i'm so jealous. As I rubbed in the Leatherique I couldn't believe how good the leather felt. It's the best I've seen, the cracks seem to just be in the dye for the most part. The seat were so clean I didn't even need vacuuming. I only found one or two grains of sand as on rubbed with the Leatherique. It must of had been detail recently. Even so, that wouldn't make seats leather feel so good. I'd really would like to know whats been used on them over the years.
I angle the sun shade to increase heat of sun, while keeping sun off leather the best I can. With the dark window film (looks cool) I'm turning Snowy to face the sun best I can through the day.
While Snowy basked in the sun I washed undercarriage again. I found my long reach 90 deg spray wand difficult to reach on top of frame and stuff with. I could have saved a great deal of time washing with a shorter length 90 deg wand.
Next I'll pull plastic off carpet as I clean off Leatherique with step two of the process. Then vacuum and "Dry" shampoo carpet.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Work is progressing, all be at a slower pace then I planned. Cleaning just keeps taking longer than anticipated, white does hide!
I let Leatherique soak two days rather then the one day I had planned. I could see grim coming out so felt extra day would be best course. But I've learned not to over-due seat leather or carpet cleaning in one sitting. It's better over time genitally each time so not to pull out dyes anymore than necessary.
After cleaning with Leatherique. Each cleaning in the future should show further improvement.
Before:
After: Carpet came out OK for first cleaning, I'll keep working spots that need it as I go with special spot removers & cleaners.
Before:
Plastic is soaking:
I let Leatherique soak two days rather then the one day I had planned. I could see grim coming out so felt extra day would be best course. But I've learned not to over-due seat leather or carpet cleaning in one sitting. It's better over time genitally each time so not to pull out dyes anymore than necessary.
After cleaning with Leatherique. Each cleaning in the future should show further improvement.
After: Carpet came out OK for first cleaning, I'll keep working spots that need it as I go with special spot removers & cleaners.
Before:
Plastic is soaking:
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- Thread starter
- #59
Finding best procedure for cleaning & restoring Snowy's paint!
I started at worst area for my test by double washing with dish soap to strip off wax & grease:
TRIX helped some, but specs still remained:
Heavy Clay helped a bit more, but specs still remained. Some lacquer for the though spots used sparingly. Then cutting compound with DA buffer cleaned remainder off.
Waiting on a bottle of Lexol P,V&R cleaner, conditioner & protect to treat black rubber & black plastic before clay & buffing with compound. I find it helps keep clay & buffing pads clean by working rubber & plastic trim first, also makes cleaning compounds of rubber easier.
I started at worst area for my test by double washing with dish soap to strip off wax & grease:
TRIX helped some, but specs still remained:
Heavy Clay helped a bit more, but specs still remained. Some lacquer for the though spots used sparingly. Then cutting compound with DA buffer cleaned remainder off.
Waiting on a bottle of Lexol P,V&R cleaner, conditioner & protect to treat black rubber & black plastic before clay & buffing with compound. I find it helps keep clay & buffing pads clean by working rubber & plastic trim first, also makes cleaning compounds of rubber easier.
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