DTC report AHC C1718 & C1776, ABS C1223 & C1241

[2001LC]

I've just done a short (pressed for time) inspection on a 2006 Land Cruiser with AHC. I didn't see any CEL on dash with engine running, just "Maintenance Required" light. I did get some codes when I hooked up to Tech Stream and did a health check. 194K mile on the odometer. A Slee Off Road installed switch to cut off AHC or lock in position. 10 hash marks from low to high in AHC reservoir.

I'm just now learning how to use my cable, so please bare with me.

What is the FFD column. All NO except the one YES. Is this Freeze Frame Data report?

Any thoughts on what could be going on, and what it will take to clear/repair?

Health Check Results: Note: Not move in park with engine running!

AHC

The rig had been driven and at operating temperate when I got to it. I noticed jumper cables in cargo area. Reportedly not driven much in last year.

On short test drive, brakes very grabby. Just a little peddle pressure and brakes grabbed.

Is freeze frame when DTC was first recorded?

ABS: Note: Not move in park with engine running, while I had cable hooked up!

Note: not move in park with engine running!

 

[abuck99]

Interesting that you're going 9mph standing still- if Im reading that correctly-

 

[2001LC]

Interesting that you're going 9mph standing still- if Im reading that correctly-

View attachment 1462791

I was thinking same thing, at first!

Then I realized that it's a freeze frame of when DTC was activated (I believe, still learning). It was the only freeze frame I found. Notice the Shift Lever Position D (M) not sure what (M) is for? Also Stop Light SW "ON". So I'd say it happen when brake was being applied. Steering angle is -234, so left turning IIRC. Rig had a lot of mud on undercarriage so could not get a clean look at speed sensors, but no apparent cracks on them.

Could these be a loose wheel bearing, setting off the ABS DTC!

"Master Cylinder Sensor1: 0.66, 1" is this normal?

Anyone know what "Left and Right G -0.23, and Back and Forth G -0.14 G" is?

 

[jerryb]

What is the slee override? isn't that if you remove the AHC stuff?

I get a stored air bag code whenever I unplug/plug the one under the passenger seat for removal. I don't remember which one exactly though. Yours is the circuit itself indicating a short I believe. You notice the x in the history column for SRS code.

• The center airbag sensor assembly receives a line short signal, open signal, short to ground signal or B+ short signal in the passenger airbag ON/OFF indicator circuit for 2 seconds. • Passenger airbag ON/OFF indicator malfunction • Center airbag sensor assembly malfunction

install a new battery and drive a while, re read codes again. if he'll let you. Sounds like a few sensors and a battery. But I know nothing of AHC.

I personally start my truck and then hook up TS and do live data checks. I've only driven with techstream hooked up one time, while I was looking at fuel and AFR stuff.

This one sounds like it's right up your alley. Hopefully he wants to ditch it for the trouble is has?

 

[2001LC]

What is the slee override? isn't that if you remove the AHC stuff?

I get a stored air bag code whenever I unplug/plug the one under the passenger seat for removal. I don't remember which one exactly though. Yours is the circuit itself indicating a short I believe. You notice the x in the history column for SRS code.

• The center airbag sensor assembly receives a line short signal, open signal, short to ground signal or B+ short signal in the passenger airbag ON/OFF indicator circuit for 2 seconds. • Passenger airbag ON/OFF indicator malfunction • Center airbag sensor assembly malfunction

install a new battery and drive a while, re read codes again. if he'll let you. Sounds like a few sensors and a battery. But I know nothing of AHC.

I personally start my truck and then hook up TS and do live data checks. I've only driven with techstream hooked up one time, while I was looking at fuel and AFR stuff.

This one sounds like it's right up your alley. Hopefully he wants to ditch it for the trouble is has?

The prices is ok (not great) provided these issue and others I found are manageable. Brakes/ABS and AHC can be expenses parts to fix, so these codes do concern me. But not enough to walk on the deal.

Seller said the Slee SW was so he could stop "AIR ride" from automatically changing and keep it there at any speed. He seemed a little foggy on it's use. SW didn't seem to work, said it was loose. He's not a car guy, so he said.

Good info on the SRS thanks! The SRS was not a current DTC and indicated no diagnostic necessary, so I'm not to concerned with it at this time. He did say something about some radio work done by a car toys or someone dealing with SAT radio. Said they messed up DVD, which he gave up on them and getting it to work after that. Could be this shop set off that SRS DTC. Be nice if every DTC showed a date, or if I could find it.

The jumper cables in cargo made me think dead or low battery, which may have played a part in one or more DTC. Although I've had dead batteries and low battery without any DTC's, in pre 02's.

Seller also had a none Toyota shop do brake and wheel bearing work. I was at Slee Off Road the other day, and a comment was made to me:"most work we do is correcting what corner shops have worked on" I said the same many times. So it's a high probability the ABS issue is related to work done.

I've a long drive down from the mountains to get home. I felt something with the brakes grabbing as mentioned and heard a clunk clank as AHC raised from L to N at ~16 MPH. So I'm bit concerned. I'd like to get a handle with the data I have on hand, to know what I should check or field repair when I pick up.

Coming off the Continental divide with questionable brakes is risky. Although I'm pretty good at staying off the brakes on the down hills, by using transmission and compression to regulate my speed. Don't want to end up on a runaway ramp as this guy.
This week I saw this guy and two other smoking the brakes and hundreds riding brakes down hill:

 

[jerryb]

C1223 and C1241 codes..... Somewhere along the line the C1241 code set and this code means that there was low-voltage to the ABS actuator motor. This could be due to a low state of charge in the battery or the alternator not correctly putting out enough power or the battery simply being run low at some point. By default then the C1223 code sets in the traction control computer detecting a malfunction in the ABS control computer which makes sense because of the C1241 code.

I found these two when I bought mine, I had to go back and look to male sure. Then I found the above, copied from online.
So new battery might/should fix three of them.

c1718, maybe this pic helps you.

c1776 thread here, Height sensor dead in 05LX

So that one might be crummy one to deal with looks like. If he thought the accumulators were bad maybe that's why he went with the override thing.

if you need anything I have all the 06 books

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @jerryb, that's very helpfully info, and thank you for the FSM offer. I'd did just buy a 07 FSM 3 volume set, so i'm good. I've now got 01, 05 & 07 FSM hard copy's.

Parasitic battery drain only takes a few weeks, especially if lights set in auto mode. He drove a few miles down a mountain road to meet me. Makes sense low voltage plays into these DTC's, possible on first curve in the road. The fact FFD shows he was turning at the time, concerned me a bit.

Could be a loose wheel bearing yielded a bit of slop in wheel speed sensors, combined with low amperage. Then as battery charged on drive, lights went off. I may take a small jack and a few tools to inspect bearings & tighten if needed.

The no CEL or ABS/VSC/TRAC lights, could be explain by battery AMP's coming up by time I got there, I suppose?

Could be as he started his drive, low current yielded the FFD of DTC C1224 (even all DTC's) on first braking. Shamefully I don't recall checking dash lights at moment of key on (sun was on dash). So I don't know that all lights are working. That said I can't imagine CEL and ABS/VSC/TRAC all out at same time on and 06. If I'm not mistaken the dash bulbs are LED in 06?

I also noticed one (DS) front shock leaking, something setting for a long time I suppose could do. Surprised both fronts or all would leak. I didn't notice any others leaking, should have taken more pictures just so I could now be sure. Seller mention it was garage kept until a year ago. So safe to assume it's not been driven much in a last year. @PADDO would know if setting would a be cause for shock leak at only one shock?

I don't know how long a DTC shows CUR CONF without flashing as CEL. I thought CEL would be on with CUR CONF, then go to HISTORY as it came off?

Bottom line, I'm not overly concerned with AHC as safety issue for a two hour mountain drive down the hill. I just need to keep speeds down if cornering becomes sloppy.

Brakes are a much bigger concern in any vehicle. They did work and had good stopping power. I know because on very short test drive (with advance "triple" warning to seller) I hit them hard. He/we forgot about his note PC in back seat, it went flying (my bad). Brakes where grabby coming to just mild stop, that along with DTC C1223 was my biggest concern for the drive. But if I find CEL & ABS .. lights come on with key on test/check then off, I should be good to drive.

I don't think CEL had bearing on his selling, but who knows. It just long-in-the-tooth for a none car guy. He's just drives them, and takes in shop when something is wrong. I found many owners like this, more so with the LX470 than Land cruisers.

 

[jerryb]

I found my 06 started fine with seriously low voltage. It just cranked very slow. Battery voltage was @ low 12's and it still turned over and started. I thought that was crazy. I figured it was a fairly low compression engine (but didn't know) and it didn't need much to crank.
I saw your +B voltage @12.7 I assumed it was bad.

Is that a leaky top seal on an AHC damper

 

[2001LC]

BTW: There was issues with AHC back in 2008 front glob replaced & fluid flushed. In 2010 rear gas chamber replaced & fluid flushed. Both done under warranty at local Toyota Dealer with good rep. I don't know when Slee put in override SW. But it's my understanding this local Toyota Dealer works closely with Slee so I doubt the Override SW would void warranty.

In 2011 it also had a P0420 and water pump leak. T-belt done as a result of water pump leak. It is seller's understanding they also replaced CAT's around then. I see some mention of fuel pump also in history. This could lead to some interesting data points for those dealing with the CAT issue. As it been fine for last ~100K miles since work done.

 

[2001LC]

I found my 06 started fine with seriously low voltage. It just cranked very slow. Battery voltage was @ low 12's and it still turned over and started. I thought that was crazy. I figured it was a fairly low compression engine (but didn't know) and it didn't need much to crank.
I saw your +B voltage @12.7 I assumed it was bad.

Is that a leaky top seal on an AHC damper

My 07 is running perfectly and battery seem fine. It also has a replacement alternator (not my work). It also shows +B at 12.7V. So I assume all good on the 12.7V. That reading was while running with no CEL. I need to look (again) to see if I've any other data points store in saved file.

The leak seem coming from inside of shock as only on lower (inner) tube. Low pressure will cause this from what @PADDO has said IIRC So I'm interest on his take of only one shock leaking?

You can't see it but drive shaft CV boots are seeping at inner boot outboard clamp on both DS & PS. Just like my 07 was, although I don't yet know if it's loose clamps or torn boot (like the 07 was). This looks to be a total rebuild of wheel bearing, knuckle and front drive shaft boots as my 07 was by the looks of it. Along with T-belt and associated parts. Plus full baseline for 5K through 120K miles factory PM schedule. I saw only minor crud build up on intake plume, more on fronts decreasing as moving to back on each intake plume. I'll probable do intake manifold gasket as well. Stabilizer system rebuild will most likely be in the cards as well.

Hopefully the AHC & ABS don't bit me in the wallet.

 

[jerryb]

both my inner small clamps were leaking at purchase @ 171k miles.
So you bought it then?

you mean LP in the accumulators? causing damper fluid to leak though blow off valve and consequently out past the piston seal? that make sense.

 

[2001LC]

both my inner small clamps were leaking at purchase @ 171k miles.
So you bought it then?

you mean LP in the accumulators? causing damper fluid to leak though blow off valve and consequently out past the piston seal? that make sense.

Yes on 07 (Redbaron). 01 LX470 (Whitelady) records indicate same. On three older 89- 01 LX I've also found either upper or lower of both side ball joint boots torn. IMHO both are due to AHC movement, probably associate with poor cleaning habits of PO's.

I rebuilt both front drive shaft (boot kits) on the Redbaron. It was torn boots just to inside of boot near inner clamp. I've seen this here on mud, in field inspection and in maintenance history often on AHC system.

I'll need to clean boots on this 06 before I know if tron or just clamp. I really clean well before assemble, so makes for PITA job.

 

[2001LC]

BTW @abuck99 I've purchased the Amazon.com: OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer: Automotive should be here today. Save on the hands and do better job I hope. Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

New toy is here

 

[PADDO]

@2001LC you will often see weeping on AHC shock actuators that have been exposed to high neutral pressures for a while - usually self corrects when the pressures are reduced to ideal. Additionally, fluid that is old and tired with reduced viscosity and depleted add pack (and likely carrying particulate contamination) will contribute to and compound any weeping. It's not unexpected to see high neutral pressures and aged out fluid together - sadly some people just don't show their AHC systems enough loving!

 

[abuck99]

New toy is here
View attachment 1463264

Let me know how that works for you

 

[2001LC]

I found my 06 started fine with seriously low voltage. It just cranked very slow. Battery voltage was @ low 12's and it still turned over and started. I thought that was crazy. I figured it was a fairly low compression engine (but didn't know) and it didn't need much to crank.
I saw your +B voltage @12.7 I assumed it was bad.

Is that a leaky top seal on an AHC damper

I took a new reading on the 07 after a 4 hour HWY drive. You're right +B voltage is low on this 06. I now see 13.7V on the 07 HWY drive charging battery to peak. Although the 07 didn't throw a DTC at 12.7v.

@2001LC you will often see weeping on AHC shock actuators that have been exposed to high neutral pressures for a while - usually self corrects when the pressures are reduced to ideal. Additionally, fluid that is old and tired with reduced viscosity and depleted add pack (and likely carrying particulate contamination) will contribute to and compound any weeping. It's not unexpected to see high neutral pressures and aged out fluid together - sadly some people just don't show their AHC systems enough loving!

So I suppose it's not uncommon for just one shock to weep if condition are right. Possible it sat with that tire/shock on a mound/rut/flat. FWIW: According to history AHC fluid hasn't been changed since 08 ~150K miles ago.

@PADDO How often do you feel AHC fluid should be changed (miles & years)?

It is sad, how some people treat these rigs.

Let me know how that works for you

Will do. I may go back and tighten the boot clamps I just installed. I say "may" because I'm reluctant since they're not leaking.

 

[abuck99]

Leave them alone if not leaking

 

[2001LC]

^

 

[jerryb]

you shouldn't get a code at 12.7 Mine sits at 12.8 right now after sitting for three days. I find that the new stock battery likes to sit there, even for two weeks without a battery tender on it.
I would imagine, at one point yours was dead and set the code, then recharged. Unless you have a new battery that the guy put in for you.
Personally I don't mess around with batteries, if they look old or of unknown age and don't measure up I get a new one.
For me it makes it easier to determine the starter and alt condition afterward on used cars I buy.

I did find that cleaning and swapping ground straps to 4 gauge wire improved my circuit. I bet yours would benefit from cleaning all those stock lugs. Since you're going to resell it I bet it's worth trying to save that battery also.