Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (2 Viewers)

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I finished cleaning the paint with my porter-cable DA buffer using a 5" micro fiber medium cut pad with cutting compound. I had to adjust my timing to catch early mornings while the ambient temperature was cool. Much above 72 deg and the cutting compound just worked me to death.

The paint looks good, but the deep cleaning did reveal more paint chips than I hoped to see, they're going to take a long time to workout. Fortunately it looks like most chips aren't to the metal, that will save me some grinding time.
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The carpet really fooled me. It's in good condition no rips, holes or burns but it was much dirtier than it appeared. Seem it was well vacuumed not just recently but always, as it had very little sand. But it was so dirty with mud & coffee lots of coffee, coffee & dirt that was covering some very bad red stains. These red spot resisted the best cleaners I had available, nothing I had would make any difference. It look as though someone thrown a glass of wine from end to end (front PS to rear DS).
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Then a neighbor gave me Unique Complete, a product that's working "slowly". It going to take many application over time but it is working.
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This cleaning is taking so much longer than the 20 hours I anticipated. More like 80 hours, which includes engine, undercarriage, paint, carpet, plastic & seat-belts. I'll keep working carpet as I clean headliner next.
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Trying some PowerOut & woolite on the seat-belts
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Under console cover was cleaner than I thought it would be, after dealing with all the spilled coffee elsewhere.
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Sprinkled a little bake soda in console.
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Cleaned up the switches and applied a little Dielectric grease on contacts.
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Fixing little things like "as I go". Like gluing back on these small pieces of fabric, that I assume are to reduce vibration sounds from cup holder.
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Christo Slee called (he's a good communicator) and let me know the AHC override switch is glue on cover plate. So I used some rather pricey two part plastic glue, seem to hold well. I also confirmed override does work.
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Very cool!
 
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Thanks again to @LXColorado HVAC Troubleshooting for pointing me to exact spot to fix Auto Climate control. No way the wire housing block & hose fell off by themselves.

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Cleaned the sensor while I had it out:
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Cleaned the ducting and replaced the blower fan while I was working on Climate control. Found this Land Cruiser doesn't have cabin filter door option. My 01 didn't either, but I converted it last year.

Darn forget to place a drop cloth down first, oh-well I was still cleaning carpet anyway.
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Again, I love seeing your progress.

Wonder what the red crud is?

Wine?
Kool-Aid?
Nail polish?

Oh and why replace the blower fan? Was it slow or noisy?

Interesting about it not having a filter door, my 2000 does and I installed the filters after spending about 30-min vacuuming out packed crud in the corners, wow that was a pain.

Is the fan motor a different part number for a newer unit? I wondered if the models with the pollen/particle filters would be a bit stronger but I don't know.
 
Again, I love seeing your progress.

Wonder what the red crud is?

Wine?
Kool-Aid?
Nail polish?

Oh and why replace the blower fan? Was it slow or noisy?

Interesting about it not having a filter door, my 2000 does and I installed the filters after spending about 30-min vacuuming out packed crud in the corners, wow that was a pain.

Is the fan motor a different part number for a newer unit? I wondered if the models with the pollen/particle filters would be a bit stronger but I don't know.
I don't know, but doubt it's nail polish. Whats interesting there was no sign of the red on the leather. It's for sure it got on leather. So leather must have been cleaned or replaced at time of red spill, which may explain why leather was in such good condition.

Some Land Cruiser do and some don't, whereas all LX470's I've seen do have cabin filters trap doors. I reached my hand up in ducting and didn't feel anything like leaves or what-have-you, very clean actually.

All blowers motors are the same in 100 series, filter door or not. This one was a bit noisy so I just replaced. Fortunately they are so easy to swap out.
 
What kind of stain? My guess would be: Back seats= Cherry Icee, Front seats= Coffee :)

Edit: Searching "cherry icee stain"....

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I thought what was under my front passenger seat was the end all be all. You win.
Friends don't let friends or rug rats eat or drink or play with crayons in their SUV or large sedans. I'm sick of it.
yes.. I have no kids.
 
My rules are no food/drink in the sports or luxury car. Food/drink OK in the Cruisers and minivan. I believe in purpose built. Look at all those cup holders in the 100! =)

Yes, I have kids.
 
What kind of stain? My guess would be: Back seats= Cherry Icee, Front seats= Coffee :)

Edit: Searching "cherry icee stain"....

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Good example. Coffee was mostly in front. But I think in this case it was more the adults:coffee: and one glass of red something "tossed" from front to rear, it was not just a spill.

I thought what was under my front passenger seat was the end all be all. You win.
Friends don't let friends or rug rats eat or drink or play with crayons in their SUV or large sedans. I'm sick of it.
yes.. I have no kids.
I've seen much worst, but this one surprised me as it looked so clean.

My rules are no food/drink in the sports or luxury car. Food/drink OK in the Cruisers and minivan. I believe in purpose built. Look at all those cup holders in the 100! =)

Yes, I have kids.
Wouldn't be a Cruiser without a few messes and dings would it;)


Great work there bringing the truck back to it's glory.
Thanks, it starting to shape-up. I'll not find everything, but cleaning helps me find most stuff. Next will be working paint chips, concentrating with those to bare metal. I'll work on painting chip a little each day, letting paint cure between coats as time passes.

But I'll sneak in a little mechanical each day I can for now. Then by mid July I plan on hitting the big mechanical job, as I keep on detail a little each day.

As I've said so often; cleaning is a big part of any restoration project.
 
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I did manage to finish propeller shafts & spiders lubing last night after picking up a new tub of grease. Would have done rear differential & transfer gear lube, but priming my "PITA" HF pneumatic grease gun, wasted one hour maybe more:bang: Note: to self; don't buy HF brand tools that have moving parts!

Check lubing off the list:
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I did manage to get a little time in to change out gear lube of rear differential & transfer case yesterday. I'll wait to do front diff, until working on front end stuff. That way If I end up pulling front drive shafts I'll not need worry about loss of new gear lube.

Rear differential takes the most lube but is the easiest to pour (squeeze) in 3.5 qts.
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My 24mm socket with a 3/4" breaker bar, makes easy work removing first the fill then drain plug.
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Fill until some runs out.
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Then wait at least 5 minutes to check level.
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Level should be at or just below fill plug, then torque both drain & fill plugs to 36ft-lbf.
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It's not a bad Idea to save new fill washer until after a short drive and recheck. But by waiting 5 minutes or more to check level, I've never found a change in level.
 
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Transfer case gear lube done.

Just as with differentials, I like check level of old gear lube to start.
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Old gear lube looked good.
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Not much on magnetic drain plug (24mm socket same as rear differential)
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A cheap hand pump is slow but does the job. Once done wait 5 min or more for gear lube to settle then recheck. I find it usually needs a few more pumps. As always replace the washer (gasket) and torque both drain & fill plugs to 27ft-lbf. It's also recommended to take short drive then recheck, so save the new fill washer for final check.
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Very nice work.
 

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