Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard (1 Viewer)

[TheForger]

I need to do this to all 4 of my windows.

I saw another recent thread on inoperable sunroofs and it made me think, do you run into many and if yes how do you clean/inspect/lube them? Mine is inop too but I haven't had the time or desire to tear into it.

 

[2001LC]

I need to do this to all 4 of my windows.

I saw another recent thread on inoperable sunroofs and it made me think, do you run into many and if yes how do you clean/inspect/lube them? Mine is inop too but I haven't had the time or desire to tear into it.

Sorry I can't help. I've never had issue with windows or sun roof. Knock on wood!

 

[2001LC]

Extra Mechanical work:

The decision was made to do extra PM work. This is stuff not really in PM schedule. It's stuff that is still within factory spec, so outside of my restore work. It's stuff any Dealership would say, "you don't need yet". So why will we do extra on this one. Well, it's stuff that will likely need attention within, 25K, 50K or 75K miles. Stuff that would end up costing a tone of cash over time at Dealership or specialty shop. By doing now, it can be done right and save long term. It's like moving into a used house. We've stuff we can do before moving in or wait and do over time. Doing before-hand, you enjoy benefits from day one and at today cost.

I've been working on detail work, mostly paint chip. It's my least favorite. Just because it's so time consume and unrewarding. By this I mean rock & scratch touch up never looks great. I have to keep telling myself "it's not a paint job" object is to protect body metal from rust. I've 80 hours log on it now, and not done. Rather than post up that work and then come back. I'll just post later for continuity of thread..

Here is list of extras:

1. Fuel pump & filter. Seeing this as weak spot in 06-07, and older models are now failing.
2. 8 new Coils (COP), with Denso from trust source, drop shipped from Denso USA.
3. Intake service. ie new gasket and seals, fuel injectors sent to be tested and rebuilt, ,
4. Starter. With intake manifold off it's a must do.
5. New A.I. pump and hose. Like starter, A.I pump failure is a matter of time. It's a $3K job when it does. It can take out the CAT and cost additional $4k.
6. New OEM front driveshaft (FDS), seals, hub flange, etc. a personal favorite. Dang if Toyota didn't just increase cost by $50 each FDS.
7. Rear coils (springs) with 30mm spacers. Increase life of AHC globes.
8. Steering rack bushing. Rubber, to keep factory feel & design.

Spent hours and hours ordering parts. While waiting on parts to arrive, I've began prep.


Pulled second row bench seat and clean top of gas tank, Getting ready for fuel pump R&R.

Set up on jack stand and disconnected fuel wire housing block. Then crank engine. Relieves fuel pressure.

Disconnected fuel line at filter and pulled intake manifold.

I like pulling intake manifold (IM) to pull fuel injectors (FI). It reduces chance of dirt/sand falling into intake ports of head and then cylinders. I do wash top of engine first, then blow with HP air. But still some sans remains around seals of FI. So pulling IM is a best practice.

See what I mean, in FI port hole. This is center PS side of IM, which is hardest side to get clean.

Remove fuel rail on bench, just reduce risk!

 

[2001LC]

Fuel injectors bag and ready to go to FIS for testing, cleaning & rebuilding. I'll pick up rubber mounting bushing from CVJ, while on the road delivering the FI.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearing, knuckle and FDS (front drive shaft) tear down was next. I've Fuel Injectors at FIS begin rebuilt and moving on to front end while I waiting on them and other parts.

I ran into a stuck wheel speed sensor. It was apparent this had been found stuck and worked around, as bracket was broke loose from sensor. I took my time and tapped out from inside. This meant pulling wire with sensor, rather than just hanging with caliper and brake line.

 

[2001LC]

Fuel pump & fuel filter R&R.

So most stuff dissembled and I'm cleaning & recondition. I'm also ordering more parts, based on what I've found. So I be jumping around a bit on what I work on.

 

[2001LC]

New o-ring need wetting with gasoline as a lube, an set in before drying.

Then new tank top seal place on pump assemble.

Bolts down evenly, tightening a little a time. Helps insure and even seal.

 

[2001LC]

I'll not install molding until after carpet cleaning.

 

[2001LC]

New fuel filter with new pump is just best practice.

Lightly oiling the flare nut threads and point pipe contacts, is called for. I like getting the flare nut hand tight than back off 1/4 turn, before bolting down the fuel filter to fender well. Once bolt down, I come back of torque the flare nut.

 

[2001LC]

Steering rack mounting bushing R&R.

The mounting bush were better than often seen at this age. Mainly because no oil leaking on them. That, and it's also had stock tires and suspension during it's history. But still over the years and miles, rubber gets old. So we preemptively replaced with OE style rubber bushing. I've swap out rack bushes a number of times now. Originally I was using poly bushing, but switch to OE rubber style a few years ago. The feel is stock and they don't exert the shock throughout the system and to hands on the steering wheel, as poly's do.

Sometimes old bushing come out without too much trouble. Sometimes they're a pain. These were somewhere in-between. It took me 5 hours to complet the R&R, I was shooting for 3 hours..

When using OE rubber bushing, which are a metal cup with a steel core and rubber between. There is 3 things to remember.
1) The PS side center holes are ovals. DS side are round holes in center.
2) The cut protion of bushing cups & tops go parallel to the rack. Get this lined up the best you can.
3) Each side has two bushing. Place top bushing in first, then bottom. You can finish one side with both bushing, as I do, or do tops first. Here's the trick. The bottom bushing will hit the top bushing internally while pressing in (crank down bolt), with its own washer, nut and bolt. This leaves a gap where bottom bushing is about 1/4" away from seating into the rack. It's now important to loosen the bolt, so it's no longer compression the bushing. This way it will not make contact internal. Then hook a clamp on rabbit ear where pipe (HP & low pressure hoses) bracket is hung, and under cross member. Then just clamp down pressing in lower bushing that last 1/4".

I buy these from Steering rack rebuilds.

Here's PS with ovals

Air chisel and few hours and old bushing are out. Look at that sweet jack stands @abuck99, they're so much safer and easier to use than my 100 year old ones.

Here the new in, but still need to seat the last 1/4"

 

[2001LC]

Torque to 89ft-lbf and mark to indicate torqued in. Attach all the hose brackets and done.

 

[FxFormat]

I want to do my fuel pump too as the vehicle now has 200K miles, is that the same part number for my truck? 2007 LX470, checked on Amazon and says part doesn't fit.

 

[2001LC]

YES, same PN #. It not for a listed for 06-07 100 series. We take out the pump, and toss the sock and housing. If you look close at pictures, you'll see!

 

[2001LC]

Rear coils (springs) & 30mm spacers.

Here again we did not have anything noticeable wrong with ride. Rear pressure were on high side but better than most wit AHC. So replaceing this are and extra. It something @PADDO key me in on. That is; by add 30mm spacers we reduce load on hydraulics. By replacing coils we improve ride and reduce weight/pressure on hydraulics. Doing both is best of both worlds.

While installing coils/spacers, I also replaced the rubber bushing in the stabilizer to link connection. I find these wear out fast. It's small gain in stabilizing. Not that noticeable. It may also eliminate a small clunk.

I do use spring compression. Especial on systems w/AHC. I know many just press down hard on one axle at a time. But I find this put excessive strain on brake lines while doing LH side. The arm for the AHC can also be bent. Spring compressor eliminates the worry.

Interesting the new RH (PS) coil is taller than old.
Coil on your LH (clean one) is new. Don't let the stick w/PN on it fool you. I just stuck that their as I took off the new coil.

LH (DS) is the taller coil. Both new and old look very close to same height.
New on your left

Job went well, noting surprising or concerning.
Torquing in shocks.

 

[2001LC]

Rear link to stabilizer, bushing R&R.

Just a dab of rubber grease sure makes this easier.

 

[2001LC]

Water bypass joint gaskets:

I'm back to work on starter, water bypass joint gaskets, A.I pump and hoses. I had planed on FDS, knuckle and wheel bearing work first, so I could lower the vehicle. But found upper ball joint boots cut, so I'm waiting on parts (boots). While waiting I moved on to engine top end.

While inspecting and cleaning I spot a possible coolant leak at water bypass joint front DS. Typical I like to clean up any suspected leak. Than watch to confirm leak. But in this case I'm just assumed it is a weeping gaskets and R&R.

Here what I spotted, at water bypass joint front DS (LH)

Pulled the joint to expose gasket.

PS for comparison.

 

[2001LC]

I spent more time cleaning parts, then anything. Preparing gasket surface for new gaskets, is key to a good job.

Yes, doing the rear water bypass joint also, along with A.I exhaust side gaskets

 

[2001LC]

Starter, A.I. pump, water bypass frt & Rear, fuel injectors, intake & throttle body install. Are all held up.
The Denso stater took shipping damage, so waiting on replacement. This is first part of top end that needs installing. So the whole top end is held up.

So I'm going to hold a few spot to and come back and post in later this stuff.

 

[2001LC]

A Denso starter, in good condition, is finally here. It must go in first.

I do a finally wipe down of all gasket surfaces with a de-greaser before laying in gaskets.
Next rear water bypass joint gaskets

The VVT engine have the A.I. system, which secondary air valve switch to each sides exhaust, is located on the rear water bypass. These have a metal gasket that have convenient clips to hold them in place during install.

Rear water bypass joints is in and torqued down. Note: I evenly sung down all 4 nuts, a little at a time. Then I torque to 13ft-lbf.

A.I pump and No.1 switch assembly is next. I always replace the hoses if removed. Longer hose is always replaced, so during disassemble I just cut it off. The shorter, only needs replacing if removed to swap out Air pump or switch. In this case I did replace shorter hose as I'm installing a new OEM air pump. This pump was not bad. But it seems the filter within goes bad overtime. That this causes impeller to go bad. It can then seen debris down stream. So if pump goes bad Toyota recommends the entire system be replaced. That is a ~$3,000 job at Dealership. So replacing pump and other parts associated with this job is really a PM in this case. It may save thousand in repairs. Also we may be seeing CATs go bad due to failed A.I pump impeller, sending debris down stream. There's is another ~$4K in repairs this may avoid.

 

[2001LC]

Next is water cross over pipe. I clean out and inspect back of water pump, where pipe with O-ring fits in.

New O-ring is placed on pipe and lubed with soapy (dish soap dove is best, some use grease) water.

Pipe is in and torqued down.