Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

I've gone back and edited Post 79 -82 with a ton of pictures on: Installing stater, A.I. system, water bypasses & pipe, fuel injectors, intake manifold and more. Those that care, may like to go back and review.

Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard post #79.

 

[2001LC]

Flushed the brakes. Timing test booster motor run time is very good. Still need to drive and bed in the new brake pads.
30 to 40 seconds is spec for booster run time. The lower the better, so this is a good time.

Button up the engine found one more vacuum (vapor) hose a little loose, so replaced.

All new coils is so sweet with the new TT spark plugs, all vacuum lines that were a even a little weak, new intake gaskets, refreshed Fuel injectors & seals, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter,oil filter oil, idlers bearings, drive belt, newer timing belt done a Dealership. Clean MAF & throttle body. Only part not service is the fuel pressure regulator.
I had installed a Denso coil boot kit earlier. Now replacing all coils, I'll just reclaim the boots. So I just lost time.

Looking good.

 

[2001LC]

AHC flush.

I do my AHC flushing, just a little different than most. I start with AHC set in "H" rather than "N". It's just so I've less to draw from reservoir.

History showed Dealership "bleed air" from system, which was when front shocks replaced. Shock replaced is not often needed, if one flushes regularly. Even if shock lower half is a little wet for seal weep, it does not need replacing. Only if drip off shock does it need replacing. So many shop replace when they should be just flushing.

Accumulator yields about 1/3 qt., rear global a full qt. and front near full qt.

Fluid was dark as expected. I could also see practicals, which is normal for under flushed which most are. I recommend flushing ever oil change and actively working the AHC. After two or three more flushes, move to each other oil change, then every 20K miles once no practical seen.

Torque is very lite at only 62IN-LBf accumulator and 71IN-LBF for global bleeders.

I'll let bleeders set and dry before putting on the very important rubber bleeder caps.

I did have a chance to fire up tech stream and look at pressures. Rear at a respectable 5.8 with new coils and spacers installed., Sweet!. Fronts came down also. I'll adjust T-bars. But I really need to drive and settle before and as I do.

 

[2001LC]

Interior work.

The center row DS cup holder was busted up. So I purchased a new one, then R&R. Removing side panel, at least partially, was required to get at 4 screws from back side. I pulled the panel and all floor plastic, thresholds, etc. In prep for carpet cleaning. That way, I can more effectively clean carpet.

Cup holder center row DS.

 

[2001LC]

Cup holder center console.

The lid of cup holder, as most all lids, was scored. This is form being left open. The lid then rubs on console casting and scores it. This one was particular ugly, so I replaced cup holder assembly.

 

[abuck99]

NIce!- Does the new cupholder come with the adjustable holders?

 

[2001LC]

NIce!- Does the new cupholder come with the adjustable holders?

Yep, if you mean the butterfly. Which I need for another rig. So helps justify the cost for just a scratch..

 

[2001LC]

Steering column telescopic motor.

We see these pricey little motor fail all to often. I know some have pulled them apart and cleaned them up. But they seems to work for awhile, then freeze up again. So I replaced this one.

 

[abuck99]

They get weak like door lock actuator and while they still work when you bench test- not enough torque to move the steering column.

Fun job right? Laying upside down in the footwell, sprawled out on your back. Not sure what's worse- working on back of engine compartment or under steering column.

 

[2001LC]

For sure, back of engine for us old guys! ....

 

[2001LC]

I find that removing plastic molding, gives good accesses without lying on back. Tele motor being easier than tilt. With tilt we need to take off much more.

 

[2001LC]

Carpet cleaning.

The more plastic off, the more effective carpet cleaning. So now's a good time for cleaning the carpet. I use a very nasty dry clean shampoo at a car wash. Nasty in it's hard on lungs. Darn if I didn't leave my respirator in my DD (coviD-19 grocery getter). Oh well!.. This stuff requires vacuuming repeatedly after it drys. I also then work on more difficult stains. It's coming along.

My next cleaner requires no soaps or chemicals remain in carpet fibers. I use a wet vac and water to spot treat/claen soaps out areas I'll be focusing on later.

 

[2001LC]

Before first faze of cleaning carpet.

 

[2001LC]

Windshield install.

I hate dealing with installers. I'm always needing to find a new guy, as they move around. I do most work myself. That is I remove all molding. If any rust I do the migration. I rely on installer to remove and set-in new glass, that is all.

I had not pre-removed inside molding. I just waited until I got call, installer on the way. It only takes 2 minutes per side normally to remove this molding. But apparently last time windshield installed, inside molding was not removed. They glued the molding inadvertently to the windshield inner frame. I've not seen that before. I had to sharpen and use my carbon fiber scarpers tools and a razor to separate it.

Then installer used hand tool to remove glass. That I not seen before either. In doing so he scratch my body paint. Only very small protion will be visible and I'll touch up. But had he taped the area, it would not have happened.

Windshield is in, and all will be better than it was. I'll finish my paint touch up and paint correcting compounds and waxes. Then I'll come back and install exterior molding.

One extra twist in this job was mask and gloves. I worn mask and asked installer too. He did for about 5 minutes, and then pulled off. So now I need to go clean dash, front body, windshield areas for covid-19. Or let it set for 9 days in the shop or perhaps a day in the sun. I'm taking this virus stuff very serous.

 

[2001LC]

Molding (windshield) install.

I'll come back to this and post here. First I'll show body paint correcting.

 

[2001LC]

Paint correcting.

Cleaning, chip & scratch touch-up, buffing with correcting & polish compound.

Body paint needs caring for. Cleaning and waxing is how we maintain and keep the paint beautiful. Beyond beautifying, paint protects the body metal. So it's important to touch-up any breaks in paint that expose bare metal. Wax can be very helpful at sealing breaks in the paint. Wax will keep bare metal dry and block oxygen from metal to a point. But it is best, that small chips and scratches are touched-up as they happen. As is so often the case, touch-up is done late or not at all. Late in that the bare metal has begin to rust. The rust spreads under the primer of the body paint. The older a break to bare metal, the more rust will have spreads. A 10 year old chip, only the size of a pin hole (less than 0.10MM). May have spread under the paint ~10MM more or less.

Cleaning in prep for inspecting and correcting:

First part of washing is using HP water to wash away loose grim. Than agitation of the surface with a good lubricating soap and micro fiber (deep pile, cut fiber) mite. Than wash away soapy and grim with more HP water. Then dry with air, micro fiber or combination.

Once paint is clean as I can get. I come back at it with a synthetic clay and more soap water for lubricate. Clay bar removes even more of the stuck on grim (bird, iron, sap, bug, etc) it also removes wax. I most often use a car soap here, which has wax in it. Not that I want too wax, but it lubricates the best of what I've in my cleaning supplies. After drying, the real condition of paint is now exposed. I'll come back and wash one more time with dish soap. Dish soap is not recommended for auto paint cleaning. But it will help strip waxes and oils, which we want before correcting paint (cutting with a compound).

Here and old stock photo of synthetics clay bar cleaning:

Once body paint cleaned and de-waxed, imperfection reveal themselves. I've been negatively surprised more than once after these cleaning steps. I've found approximately 100 chips and scratches in the paint in this one.

I use a handheld microscope to inspect each chip and scratch for to see if to bare metal and rust.

Once a rust spec found, I use micro grinding bits to de-rust. My latest set of bits are from HF, where I bought grinding tools kits, just to get enclosed bits that came with them. One set is diamond bits of various sizes and shapes. The diamond bit that is on my tool in below picture, has been my go too. I found they remove paint and not much metal. So they give me best control. Once this grinding processes begins, I keep vehicle in the shop at all times, to keep dry and clean.

I grind away as little paint as possible, starting in center of chips. I them look with microscope to see if I've a clean line between bare metal and factory primer. I keep grinding, targeting any dark at line going under primer. This is so tedious. The average chip takes halve a dozen times of me going back and grinding than reinspecting time and time again. Older chips may take 20 times back into on this faze, as the rust travels further under the paint. So 100 chips means at least 600 times repeating the inspection and grind process. A PITA. But any rust remaining and it will grow. So I take great care in this step.

Stock photo of a white 100 series. The white really helps show the rust, most colors aren't so revealing.

Grinding a chip until all rust cleaned out, takes as long as it takes. I just keep at it, as long as it takes.

 

[2001LC]

Primer, is first paint into the bared metal of chips.

Epoxy primer is one of the best we can use. One can use a good self-etching automotive primer. But epoxy primer is best in most any case. If acid etching is done, I've been told by my auto paint supplier, I must use epoxy primer.

As with any painting job, prep is key. Once chips are de-rust, I wipe with micro fiber wet with de-waxers & de-greasers and blow with HP air. Than I dab in primer.

I use various tools for painting. From tiny paint brushes to needles. My go to and most used painting applicator, is a paper stick Q-Tip. I cut stick at and angle to create a fine or wide point as needed. I then dip point in paint, an let paint come off point by capillary action into my prepared chip. Sometimes dabbing in or bushing in.

I've a large magnifying lens with light, I wheel around to aid working these tiny chips.

Then I let dry overnight.

 

[2001LC]

Leveling without sand paper!

Once dry, I come back and level.

Leveling without sand paper, is something I've been working to perfect. I use a plastic card as my straight edge, covered with a lint free cloth. I wet the cloth with a drop of solvent. Either a paint reducer to pull/wipe off very dried paint or lacquer for lighter wipe. I let paint reducing and or cleaning of brush info, be my guild as to what I use.

The wiping, levels the paint and removes it from body paint around the chip. The grain or pile of the cloth, is key, to how much paint is lift from the chip.

By using different materials and piles, how long and what direction I wipe over, up to or swiping by edge. I can have some control on how much paint is lifted out or not.

By wiping to level, we do not thin the factory clear coat. So unlike sanding, we can repeat time and time again until happy with outcome. Just don't let thinner puddle or set on paint.

 

[2001LC]

Touch up paint (color).

Once epoxy level, I begin adding color (touch up paint) to the areas I'm working. Again leveling color the next day. I found 1 day drying between coats works well in my shop. With sun or heat lamp can be reduced that time. Too dry, and it takes to many wipes and too much thinner. Not dry enough and to much paint pulls from area I'd rather it not.

I keep adding color after each leveling wipe. Until I feel level and texture looking good. As the chip fills, the trick is to not pull any more paint than necessary out of chip to level. Goal is to get level with or within 1 layer of factory paint level.

How much I pull from a chip on each leveling wipe depends on a few factors. Which thinner, how wet the cloth, pile of the cloth and how tight a weave. Cloth selection is key. First it must be lint free and clean. It must not have dyes that will bleed into paint.

So from day of first grinding of a chip, it can't get wet until epoxy in. Not putting rig outside until final coats is best. Otherwise I must re wash (without a waxy soap). This is very time consuming process. I work each spot until it looks good. Each day that means fewer and fewer to chip & scratches to work build up and leveling faze. So takes time, it also takes up my shop space.

After 4 or 5 day of adding color and leveling.

I'm have a very difficult time match paint. Seem Gray metallic is one of the worst to match. Also as I wipe to level. The color is lightening. Seem the metallic float to top.

So I'm trying something new for me; Air Brush.

 

[2001LC]

Color match, Clear Coat & Air Brush.

I'm using a two part clear coat. It's a much harder finish than touch up paint or one step clear coat.

Due to color matching issues. I hope to get a closer match by not wiping last coat of paint. One issue, when bushing or dabbing in paint, is uneven and lumpy. Spraying in paint gives smoother surface, or so is my thinking.

So I'm using air brush for the first time. I spray color into chip, then a mix of clear coat and color.

Clear coat from PGP, the DC3000. Has formal for mix in the color (DBC)

Spraying in color, then a mix of color with CC is a nice way to go. I can then sand down to level and not disturb the color as much as leveling does. Or so I hope!

I found a neat trick to help me in keeping spray pinpointed and reducing over spraying. I took a clear plastic lid and punched holes of various sizes in it. Then I place over each chip as I spray in paint.