2001LC
SILVER Star
Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Sounds good to me. If idling there in the driveway- and youre checking temp, 186 is not low. Once trans temp gets above 120-125degrees, Coolant temp will come up and then fluctuate a little. My cooling system is 12months old (coolant, thermostat, waterpump and radiator) I monitor with my ScanGuage and range 186~190~occaisionally 191; temps on highway 188-190, around city 188-190 in all types of ambient air temps from 20’s to 90’s. When doing radiator burps or techstream work Idling in my garage for 20 minutes its steady at 186.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Front end and undercarriage inspection.
Pre wash I also inspect undercarriage for leaks from end to end.
This includes front driveshafts & boots.
I found front drive shaft CV boots showing cracks. These are the same cracks I see in the CVJ rebuilt FDS boots, after only six months. Rebuilt FDS were installed at 129K miles in 2015 according to history. Impressive; no boot leaks at cracks no remarkable play in CV's. The play between hub flange and axle of FDS was very minimal. Much less than one would espect with rebuilt's installed 70K miles ago. I've yet to check the snap ring, its axle spline/teeth or groove for snap ring.
No leaks at CV boots of FDS. Just some mild cracking of rubber boots.
No leaks detected in front suspension area. Steering rack boots looks good, but has had some wetness attracting dust, likely leaks from above (i.e PS reservoir and PS hoses). Shocks and ball joint boots all look good. Wheel speed senors look good. No play observed in UCA & LCA bushing.
Anyone that would like me to show how I inspect each component, just ask, I'l post it for you.
Inspecting all tubing (fuel, brake, hydraulic and AC) from front to back for leaks. Nothing observed of any concern. Nor anything of concern found in exhaust, fuel tank, AHC components or charcoal canister above spare tire.
Pre wash I also inspect undercarriage for leaks from end to end.
This includes front driveshafts & boots.
I found front drive shaft CV boots showing cracks. These are the same cracks I see in the CVJ rebuilt FDS boots, after only six months. Rebuilt FDS were installed at 129K miles in 2015 according to history. Impressive; no boot leaks at cracks no remarkable play in CV's. The play between hub flange and axle of FDS was very minimal. Much less than one would espect with rebuilt's installed 70K miles ago. I've yet to check the snap ring, its axle spline/teeth or groove for snap ring.
No leaks at CV boots of FDS. Just some mild cracking of rubber boots.
No leaks detected in front suspension area. Steering rack boots looks good, but has had some wetness attracting dust, likely leaks from above (i.e PS reservoir and PS hoses). Shocks and ball joint boots all look good. Wheel speed senors look good. No play observed in UCA & LCA bushing.
Anyone that would like me to show how I inspect each component, just ask, I'l post it for you.
Inspecting all tubing (fuel, brake, hydraulic and AC) from front to back for leaks. Nothing observed of any concern. Nor anything of concern found in exhaust, fuel tank, AHC components or charcoal canister above spare tire.
Last edited:
So, how do you check for play in upper ball joints?
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
Sorry I missed your question.
I put a crowbar under shock tower and across top of UCA (upper control arm). I then pull down on UCA with crowbar. As I do, I feel and or film the relation between steering knuckle & UCA. If I feel or see play (the gap between the two close). Which is where ball moves into socket. It is bad.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #33
I've been getting request for more pictures. I've not done any detailing, so these are before pictures. Carpet needs cleaning and some PDR work and polishing is in the game plan. I pulled the whale tail and have no plans to replace it. The floor mats are my shop mats, used to keep the stuff off the factory mats. Tires and wheels are Tundra shop test wheels/tires. I've a full set of the Land Cruiser wheels with snow tires, sitting on my back porch. 
.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
Graybeard is under contract, so i'm digging into for the winter. So nice to have a heated shop.
First up was replacing high pressure line from power steering vane pump to steering rack & pinion.
Since ~50% of the 06-07 HP lines over 150k miles I see are leaking, I'm good with aftermarket. First one I replaced was on Snowy, which I had the OEM HP line rebuilt. This time I'm giving this one a try. Seems to be a perfect match, no fitment issues at all.
It came with 4 separate copper washer. But I used the OEM connected washer for the rack side. They're nice, because the stay put. Working in tight area that is very helpful.
PN # ****-***30 is goes on rack (DS), the one ending in 40 goes on vane pump (PS). The difference is spread, with Vane pump side having widest spread.
Tick is to flush out fluid first, much less mess that way. This fluid was surprising good condition. Even the reservoir was clean as was it's screen. Nice to see a well serviced rig. History showed Groove Toyota at 140K used BG 108/322 a synthetic and on 3/21/18 at 174k both reservoir hoses replaced+ 2qt unidentified fluid.
First up was replacing high pressure line from power steering vane pump to steering rack & pinion.
Since ~50% of the 06-07 HP lines over 150k miles I see are leaking, I'm good with aftermarket. First one I replaced was on Snowy, which I had the OEM HP line rebuilt. This time I'm giving this one a try. Seems to be a perfect match, no fitment issues at all.
It came with 4 separate copper washer. But I used the OEM connected washer for the rack side. They're nice, because the stay put. Working in tight area that is very helpful.
PN # ****-***30 is goes on rack (DS), the one ending in 40 goes on vane pump (PS). The difference is spread, with Vane pump side having widest spread.
Tick is to flush out fluid first, much less mess that way. This fluid was surprising good condition. Even the reservoir was clean as was it's screen. Nice to see a well serviced rig. History showed Groove Toyota at 140K used BG 108/322 a synthetic and on 3/21/18 at 174k both reservoir hoses replaced+ 2qt unidentified fluid.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #38
Next I find remove the idle up control valve a good idea. It threads into Hp line banjo. So break it free while banjo still attached to vane pump make easy work of it. Getting idle up off now reduce risk of breaking the vacuum hoses nipples, they can be brittle.
Next is the union bolt on vane pump side of HP line. It has nut of sort under the HP line banjo. Sometimes I find it necessary to hold the nut as I break the union bolt loose. This one it was not, as bolt broke free easy.
I cleaned the engine before start. I'll do like covering opening onto vane pump to keep out dust away.
Next is the union bolt on vane pump side of HP line. It has nut of sort under the HP line banjo. Sometimes I find it necessary to hold the nut as I break the union bolt loose. This one it was not, as bolt broke free easy.
I cleaned the engine before start. I'll do like covering opening onto vane pump to keep out dust away.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
Then I worked may way down the HP line releasing all securing points. Final was breaking free the union bolt. I found I could do this without remove oil filter. Makes it a little tighter working area but doable.
Then the union bolt on the vane pump is last one for the rout I took.
Then I snake to down from vane pump and then this end out from around oil filter.
Then the union bolt on the vane pump is last one for the rout I took.
Then I snake to down from vane pump and then this end out from around oil filter.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
Then simply clean the ports and union bolts.
Assembling in reverse order.
Snaking HP line on the rack (PS) around oil filter is first. Then place washers/gasket on top and bottom of HP line banjo at rack. Once I've rack union bolt in and sung, I get hard line routes to each securing bracket along the frame cross-member. Then snake flexible portion, up though the same rout it came out to vane pump.
Note both banjos have a keep on them. Keep must be against stop on rack & vane pump. So, as you torque the banjo does not move. On the rack side it seems to just falls into place. On the vane pump side it needs a little coaching. Check both before torquing.
I torqued:
Rack union bolt to 31ft-lbf.
Vane pump union bolt to 42ft-lbf
You may have noticed the pipe is to close to vane pump pulley to allow for installation of serpentine (drive ) belt. It was likely bent in shipping. No problem. Just bent it away enough to install belt.
Make sure all bracket and clips are secure.
Then thread on the idle up control valve and sung down. It's a flare fitting seal. I used a little FIPG on threads to act as a thread lock more than seal.
Now we flush the reservoir. We've air in system, so it is engine off flush. Extra turning of wheel is required to get the air out then just bleed as normal. I use 1.3 qts M1 MV full synthetic ATF
forum.ih8mud.com
Check for leaks, clean and recheck keeping eye of fluid level.
Assembling in reverse order.
Snaking HP line on the rack (PS) around oil filter is first. Then place washers/gasket on top and bottom of HP line banjo at rack. Once I've rack union bolt in and sung, I get hard line routes to each securing bracket along the frame cross-member. Then snake flexible portion, up though the same rout it came out to vane pump.
Note both banjos have a keep on them. Keep must be against stop on rack & vane pump. So, as you torque the banjo does not move. On the rack side it seems to just falls into place. On the vane pump side it needs a little coaching. Check both before torquing.
I torqued:
Rack union bolt to 31ft-lbf.
Vane pump union bolt to 42ft-lbf
You may have noticed the pipe is to close to vane pump pulley to allow for installation of serpentine (drive ) belt. It was likely bent in shipping. No problem. Just bent it away enough to install belt.
Make sure all bracket and clips are secure.
Then thread on the idle up control valve and sung down. It's a flare fitting seal. I used a little FIPG on threads to act as a thread lock more than seal.
Now we flush the reservoir. We've air in system, so it is engine off flush. Extra turning of wheel is required to get the air out then just bleed as normal. I use 1.3 qts M1 MV full synthetic ATF
Steering Flush & Cleaning
Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...
forum.ih8mud.com
Check for leaks, clean and recheck keeping eye of fluid level.
Last edited:
