Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard
- Thread starter 2001LC
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2001LC
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- #42
PVC hoses. They've needed replacing on every 100 series I've tuned. While replacing hoses, I inspect the PVC valve for proper function. Also in the 98-02 they have a rubber grommet holds valve in DS head cover that need replace if hard. The 03-07 PCV valve is threaded in. They use red thread locker on those threads. So not very hard to get it off. I just use my new hose to test the valve. You do not want air passing through when blowing into and air to pass freely while sucking from. Now I'm not suggesting you suck on crankcase fumes, they do make pump that both blow and suck.
They have two PN # for PS one is 98-early 00, they other works for late 00-07. The difference is the head cover side of hose is smaller in the 98-early 00.
There are two for DS one PN # is from 98-05 the other 06-07.
They have two PN # for PS one is 98-early 00, they other works for late 00-07. The difference is the head cover side of hose is smaller in the 98-early 00.
There are two for DS one PN # is from 98-05 the other 06-07.
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It seems like there way be two different PN's for this idle up hose as well, I found 17030-50070 for '98-05, and 17030-50150 for '06-07. Do you know if thats correct?
2001LC
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- #44
That is correct. Fact is we've many changes in PN #s through the years in many parts. Even mid year we've changes. Also I found some PN are more expensive, but part is identical to the eye. Difference is environmental standards it was made to. Example is drive belt and thermostat, which is 50% more expensive in the 06-07. Those I just use earlier PN#.
Best practice is to order by VIN#. I've found www.partsouq.com the best source for PNs look ups. If you go there and don't have a VIN# you'll be amazed at how many variation in models world wide the 100 series has. Buying from them makes sense in some stuff. But I have be hit with import fees and tax along with shipping in large orders. I've had my cost come out as high as 35% above items listed total price.
Best practice is to order by VIN#. I've found www.partsouq.com the best source for PNs look ups. If you go there and don't have a VIN# you'll be amazed at how many variation in models world wide the 100 series has. Buying from them makes sense in some stuff. But I have be hit with import fees and tax along with shipping in large orders. I've had my cost come out as high as 35% above items listed total price.
2001LC
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- #45
Spark plugs, Coils and head cover bolts:
As practices I check for loose spark plugs. As expected I found a few here. #2 #7 plugs were looses and cooked the coils a bit. So swap out one coil that was cracking and rebooted all with a Denso coil boot kit. I also replaced all the spark plugs. I use my last stash of Denso IK20TT made in Japan. I also re-torqued all head cover bolts, they needed it.
#2 #7 spark plugs were loose enough, hot combustion gasses were starting to cook the coils.
As practices I check for loose spark plugs. As expected I found a few here. #2 #7 plugs were looses and cooked the coils a bit. So swap out one coil that was cracking and rebooted all with a Denso coil boot kit. I also replaced all the spark plugs. I use my last stash of Denso IK20TT made in Japan. I also re-torqued all head cover bolts, they needed it.
#2 #7 spark plugs were loose enough, hot combustion gasses were starting to cook the coils.
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Hey Paul, I just replaced these on a 98 LX because both sides the cables had rusted out. Not a spot of rust anywhere else on the vehicle, which makes me wonder if likely water got into the rubber protectors on the cables and then rusted over time. After installing, also noticed the weight of the tailgate is all on the right hand cable and the left is a little lose. Any thoughts on how to even them out? Obviously you can't adjust the cable lenghts.
Yes, replaced with OEM cables. I will look at the hinges and see if an adjustment will level it back out.
Thanks
Thanks
2001LC
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- #53
Hood struts.
They all go bad sooner or later. This should have been my very first post of work performed. I'm replacing hood struts first thing these days, save on aggravation of clamp the struts. I buy the longest I can find. Install is easy just need to make sure I've a helper, stick or clamps to keep hood open during the 20 minute job.
This is stock footage from Merlot. I used a longest struts I can find at a reasonable price point, Just didn't get a picture of them. I've found long one piece. Which is where the bolt with socket is attached by manufacture. The Monroe are easier to install, as snap together after socket bolt installed. But the no names I use now, are ~1 " longer. Like the OEM and near the lengths of Lexus struts, which are longer than Land Cruiser.
This is stock footage from Merlot.
They all go bad sooner or later. This should have been my very first post of work performed. I'm replacing hood struts first thing these days, save on aggravation of clamp the struts. I buy the longest I can find. Install is easy just need to make sure I've a helper, stick or clamps to keep hood open during the 20 minute job.
This is stock footage from Merlot. I used a longest struts I can find at a reasonable price point, Just didn't get a picture of them. I've found long one piece. Which is where the bolt with socket is attached by manufacture. The Monroe are easier to install, as snap together after socket bolt installed. But the no names I use now, are ~1 " longer. Like the OEM and near the lengths of Lexus struts, which are longer than Land Cruiser.
This is stock footage from Merlot.
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2001LC
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- #54
PDR (Paint less dent repair).
I've been using "Will" and his partners & people at AH&DC Who We Are They do a great job.
In addition to the typical dings and dent we see for age. I had issue with rear hatch upper corners being bent. This was likely damaged from backing into a garage door that was not fully open, with wale tail spoiler
I removed the wale tail spoiler that was damaged and will not be replacing it. Some delete just because they don't like them, others for clearance reasons. After removing I found the upper tips of upper hatch bent down. Surely from spoiler pressing into it as damaged occurred. Not something most would even noticed.
Will was able to correct the the tips very nicely. I capped the fasteners and plugged wire hold. I just used butyl around faster (leaving them in place) and capped with the licence plate back screw caps. I'm very happy how it turned out.
Should look even better after paint correcting and waxing.
After PDR.
Before PDR
I've been using "Will" and his partners & people at AH&DC Who We Are They do a great job.
In addition to the typical dings and dent we see for age. I had issue with rear hatch upper corners being bent. This was likely damaged from backing into a garage door that was not fully open, with wale tail spoiler
I removed the wale tail spoiler that was damaged and will not be replacing it. Some delete just because they don't like them, others for clearance reasons. After removing I found the upper tips of upper hatch bent down. Surely from spoiler pressing into it as damaged occurred. Not something most would even noticed.
Will was able to correct the the tips very nicely. I capped the fasteners and plugged wire hold. I just used butyl around faster (leaving them in place) and capped with the licence plate back screw caps. I'm very happy how it turned out.
Should look even better after paint correcting and waxing.
After PDR.
Before PDR
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2001LC
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- #55
Seat Backs, front row.
I noticed the DS front seat had plastic back not secured properly and PS bottom covering had come loose.
DVD are added to 100 series at once the 100 series is imported here. One new clip for DS and some contact glue for PS and looks much better. I bet it been this way since mile 1 when DVD put in pre delivery by Dealership or sub..
DS seat back un-clipped, likely since day one.
Nice a sung now. Sorry for the yuck, I need to clean and condition the leather & plastic.
I noticed the DS front seat had plastic back not secured properly and PS bottom covering had come loose.
DVD are added to 100 series at once the 100 series is imported here. One new clip for DS and some contact glue for PS and looks much better. I bet it been this way since mile 1 when DVD put in pre delivery by Dealership or sub..
DS seat back un-clipped, likely since day one.
Nice a sung now. Sorry for the yuck, I need to clean and condition the leather & plastic.
2001LC
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- #57
Interior leather & plastic cleaning and condition.
Came out nice, using Lexol. I've used Leatherque in the past, and stuff works great, and cleans better. But I've had issue with leather afterwords. Stuff may be to strong for our leather. At minimum leatherque should not be left on more than 5 hours IMHO.
I've elected to go back to Lexol. The Toyota & Lexus dealerships sell around here and I've used without issue for over 17 years.
I still have my shop tan floor mattes in, hiding the carpet which need cleaning. Picture aren't great I get better on finally shots after carpet clean. That one of the last things I'll do.
I'll see if I can find a old DVD to test these obsolete headrest DVD players. All I really care about is they don't appear to have a parasitic drain on battery while IG key out
Cup holder lid has the typical etching from rubbing when left open. Other than that very clean front row.
LH cup holder is missing parts internally. I'll keep my eye out for replacement parts.
Third row looks unused.
Came out nice, using Lexol. I've used Leatherque in the past, and stuff works great, and cleans better. But I've had issue with leather afterwords. Stuff may be to strong for our leather. At minimum leatherque should not be left on more than 5 hours IMHO.
I've elected to go back to Lexol. The Toyota & Lexus dealerships sell around here and I've used without issue for over 17 years.
I still have my shop tan floor mattes in, hiding the carpet which need cleaning. Picture aren't great I get better on finally shots after carpet clean. That one of the last things I'll do.
I'll see if I can find a old DVD to test these obsolete headrest DVD players. All I really care about is they don't appear to have a parasitic drain on battery while IG key out
Cup holder lid has the typical etching from rubbing when left open. Other than that very clean front row.
LH cup holder is missing parts internally. I'll keep my eye out for replacement parts.
Third row looks unused.
2001LC
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- #58
Door locks.
I notice drives door look was weak. whether using FOB or switch on door. 3 times lock and unlock and it would slow up. So I install a new motor assembly. I've replaced just motor before. This is first time I did the motor assembly. Save time not breaking open case and then glue set up time.
I've seen many where someone pried up switch housing from back side, they break when that;s done. Trick is to release spring clip at front.
Trick with handle molding is to release form inside to out.
Teeter just pulls off
Punch in pins center on plastic pins and pull out
I notice drives door look was weak. whether using FOB or switch on door. 3 times lock and unlock and it would slow up. So I install a new motor assembly. I've replaced just motor before. This is first time I did the motor assembly. Save time not breaking open case and then glue set up time.
I've seen many where someone pried up switch housing from back side, they break when that;s done. Trick is to release spring clip at front.
Trick with handle molding is to release form inside to out.
Teeter just pulls off
Punch in pins center on plastic pins and pull out
2001LC
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- #59
Then remove the 8 screws (IIRC), 4 across bottom, 1 behind door handle molding, 2 near to front of door card hidden by pop off buttons. 1 behind switch housing.
Unplug master door switch and light as you go.
Last I did was on an 00LX. It did not have the foam on clean plastic, just plastic. Interesting!
2001LC
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- #60
Sorry seems I did not get pictures of popping off the large white plastic piece or removing the lock motor assembly.
LH old, RH with green new.
Popped off old white arm and move onto new motor assembly. Also not shown here I moved the little rubber breather tube over to new. I than found a small thick rubber washer on the floor. It must have popped out of old housing from under white arm, so installed that also.
Works good. Opened and closed locks ~10 times rapidly and all seems good.
