Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard

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Nov 4, 2007
See bottom of this OP for index of work done to restore. I'll keep adding to index as thread develops!

I very happy with this Galactic Gray w/Stone interior 2006 Land Cruiser. It's my next restore project.

Body has some door dings. Paint is nice. Some PDR and TLC Garybread (@abuck99 named) will be a 9.5 out of 10.

Replacing windshield, I'll be dealing with as cracked and molding done wrong. Typical!

Rear hatch did not have the rust belt rust around glass or under/ in handle area. That show up as bubbling in paint very early on. Sweet not a rust belt rig!
Land Cruiser Molding has some damage, so I'll just replace or scarp coating off. Wail-tail appears as if it got caught in garage door, so I'll just delete it for now!

No scaling or rusted in bolts. So no concerns with undercarriage. Tire are snows, no big deal! Most want ko2s anyway.


Interesting story how I found and bought this one.

It was one that would not have been sold on the lot. It would have going to auction/wholesale for safety concerns. "ABS issues".

I'd seen this one come up a on daily search & feed, as new arrival without pictures. Seeing it was at a Toyota dealership near me, that I'm familiar with. Even know all the guys in parts and some of the mechanic. So it peaked my interest. As usual, my first "check box" is where has it lived. I saw IL so didn't make my short list. Oh well!

About a week later I happen to be in area one Friday afternoon of the Dealership. I thought; I'll just take a look at the it (06 LC). I found it in back of lot, two block back in the lot behind the old Toyota parts warehouse. The Land Cruiser was parked under a tree and getting very dirty from it. First thing I looked at (inspected) was undercarriage. Not bad at all. Frame, under body and bolts seem okay and rear hatch all rust free. These areas are generally very bad on vehicles out of CH. IL to NY areas. This was actually clean, so maybe not from rust belt area. Gas tank shield and skid plate were toast. But they're easily replaceable. So I drove back up front of lot and grab a salesmen. We drove back to look at the VIN #, then we jumped back in my 100s and head up to front of lot again, to get the key.

About this time we started hearing alarms, bells and saw lights of many vehicle around us flashing. Then I notice a group of people walking toward us, wearing bright green vest. Then just as I turned around and started to pull away. I saw the tail lights of the 2006 Land Cruiser flash on once. A woman (with green vest) walk up to it. I rolled down my window and asked if she was taking to be detailed. She said NO, she's taking to the auto auction. I convinced her to give me they key, and I lock the doors. I drove her and the salesman back to main building of Dealership. She grab another vehicle keys to take to auction and we headed to sale manger desk. I introduced myself and made and offer. He was looking for more out it, but went to work on out the door number ($$PP).

I said I like to inspect and see the carfax. Carfax was clean, and it spent all but first years or so in Denver CO. I made a big deal records showed it started life in IL. But as I checked, which city in IL, I found it was South of lake MI area, a pocket out of rust belt. Well now I'm getting excited.

Dealership was going to ship off to be wholesale for some reason. So I asked for the used car inspection info on it, and asked the salesman to get Toyota History. Used car inspection showed CEL with DTC on ABS, so it was marked for wholesale (Auction) due to ABS issue.

Brake issues, as many here know, can be a big deal. They must fix for safety reasons before selling. They look at it as a potential $4K + cost, plus detailing and windshield cost.. Non of which bothered me! I just wanted good body, paint, interior and no rust issues. It fit the bill.:)

I told sales manger I'd like to inspect. At first this concerned him. As it was headed for auction and I stop that for now. They did not want to miss auction, if I held up with inspection and didn't buy.

Once I explain who I'm and that I restore these, and that I just need to go home to change clothes and get inspecting gear. He then was at easy.

Later that evening we had a deal.:rimshot:

Here's what is really interesting.

It was missed diagnosed with ABS issue. You see; 1 mile earlier the PO had in shop for CEL. They put on new radiator cap and top the coolant. It had radiator replacement with a Toyota $575 USA spec, just recently. They didn't change the rad cap or thermostat at the time, trying to save PO $$.00 I guess. Bad Idea! They also likely did not get coolant topped (air in system), very common.

This set off a CEL. Which DTC indicated "not making operating temp in time allotted". It also had other DTC's in tech stream which is very common once one goes off. One of which was ABS. They read it as ABS computer or more expensive brake system issues in ABS. They inform PO She'd need $1,600 more in repair for brake electronic just to see, and they may need master assemble $4,500. She walked onto lot and traded it in.

The shop never cleared the codes. So used car gets it and they inspect. See a CEL and they check code, seeing a ABS DTC. They misread it's issue IMHO. I see used car inspector then cleared codes and moved to back lot for wholesale.

I read codes, which history gave me, as possible voltage drop at rear wheel speed sensor. Electric yes, but not anything that concerned me. The tech that put on the rad cap, was not a seasoned mechanic (according to internal history, which I got my hands on). He apparently did not clear the codes after repair (rad cap on coolant topping). We must always clear codes and see if they come back. Many times, one issues sets off many DTCs. Low voltage can give ABS issue and set more of them off right down the line to Master unit or computers.

I've driven now a few hundred miles, with many starts on stop No CEL No DTC.


Power Steering High Pressure Line R&R and Flush page #2 starting post #37
Vacuum leaks & tune:
Idle up control vacuum often over looked Page #3 post #41
PCV hoses PS & DS are number 1 vacuum leak I find. Page #3 post #42
Tune up. page #3 post # 45-
Rear tail gate stays R&R. page #3 post #49
PDR by Will, a mud guy in the 80's section:
Rear hatch top outer tip corrected by PDR page #3 post #54
Inter Detailing:
Seat back repair & clip R&R frt page #3 post #55-
Leather & plastic clean & conditioning Page #3 post #57
Door card removal frt, and door lock motor R&R. Page #3 post #53-
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Nice, bet you scored a deal on someone else's error!
Stop hoarding the 100's!! Haha, great find.
Nice, sounds like you probably got it for a good deal and can make some good money on it once your done working your magic
I did, not great but good. Even more so, I think I got a good one. It took me 8 full hours to transpose the service History to my spread sheet, just from the one dealership in Denver. It's a good shop and the SM on this 06LC, is a good one. He up sold the lady (PO) on everything. Top of line radiator. All fluid changes including transmission with BG flushes and conditioner regularly, just like I like. Oil & filter ~5k or 3 months. The works, over the year. I even got the cost sheets. It's has ~$24K (include one set of tires) in service, t-belt, alternator, batteries, all PM, you name it all the best. Only thing not done, which never is; heater Tees. Even wheel bearing regularly and they tight. That is so rare!

Nice, bet you scored a deal on someone else's error!
I did indeed. It actually happens often, just not a Toyota dealership. It was a surprise! It's not the first I bought were some said ABS issue. One was at an INDY shop, gave estimate to PO for $5k for new Master assembly. It was just a brake fluid leak. I saw someone post the other day, they felt lucky because Dealership sent to auction due to safety concerns one he wanted, he almost bought felt lucky he didn't. I was like "oh no" were is that one. I love tough issue. Most times it's nothing.
Stop hoarding the 100's!! Haha, great find.
I only have three 100 series today. LOL.. There is one more I'm looking at. It's as nice as they come and very special. Looks like it never got off the showroom floor. They don't even know what they have. But it is priced near $40k and I just can't get there. I'm watching for it to come down. So don't ask where it's at. As I'd like to add to my hoard.....
You are quickly working your way into full time employment with these machines :) :)
It is full time, now that I heated my garage! It's all I do these days. I've even many mud members bring there rigs to work on.

I just need a bigger shop with a lift, then it be a real business. A paint boot and I be set.
Open a shop with a couple lifts and turn that into a used car dealership as well, you'd make bank and have fun doing it.
Open a shop with a couple lifts and turn that into a used car dealership as well, you'd make bank and have fun doing it.
Not a bad Idea. Ownership of building would be key.


GaryBeard is not without issues, but nothing big I found so far. No bad surprise only some good ones.

I'm in processes of post inspecting, like I do all my rigs.

Starts with removing engine cover and plastic under shielding. Then with camera, flashlight and mirror in hand, I look over every inch. Camera helps me go back and zoom in. It also gives me record of any wet spots (possible leaks), damage, aged or missing parts.

Once that's done I start cleaning engine bay and undercarriage. I use de-greasers, bushes and HP water. It takes days to do the post inspection. I do find more than in my PP inspection, but not much usually.

Then Inspect to make sure all oily spots cleaned and watch for leaks as I drive.

One thing new I do these days, when cleaning the engine. I pull drive belt and both idler and tensioner pulleys. This way I don't damage them with HP water. I've noticed the alternator will squeal after start up, so I'm careful around it also. I try to avoid washing directly into alternator bearing area.

I start engine as soon as I can after washing to dry also. I also use some HP air to dry some areas.

I other thing I'm doing is washing the radiator fins out. It's is an overlooked area. I found they all have some blockage.

Here's and example of and 07 w/120K miles radiator. It actually had some large flat pieces of Styrofoam up between it and the condenser, along with the grasses that can be seen. This area can't not be seen without removing skid plate and looking between condenser radiator and coolant radiator.
Stock footage from 07LC
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New Toyota USA spec radiator, cap and fresh Toyota coolant topped to the top. So Sweet!
Toyota OEM Time Belt stick with recent date.

SWEET! That's like $1,000 in OEM parts..

Records from Dealership indicate new Timing belt, WP, tensioner assembly & idler pulley.
No record in it's history of tensioner in it history. I'll need to pull and inspect tensioner.

Engine a little dirty and some gunk buildup and intake manifold tubes near gasket sealing to head. Common too see!

Idle up control vacuum lines of vane pump cracking. Common to see! They likely are not leaking, but likely will once removed.

Air filter new SWEEEET

Front skid wet/oily on PS. HUMMMMMMMMM
HP line of power steering wet. Seen this a few times. I'm 995 sure it's HP line weep. But I'll clean and watch closely to make sure.

Hoses from power steering reservoir look good. Dealership records show replace both hoses at 179K one yr ago this week.
Sweet more parts I don't need to buy that I usually do. Well cared for rig for sure. Love it!
PCV hose nipple of Air box fell off as I touched it. Shop broke and repaired with epoxy at some point. I see epoxy used so often on plastic. Heat is used to get set epoxy to release, so it will not hold in a hot environment.

I was getting unusually high fuel trims. Long term FT of 13 to 17% on BK 2, LT FT BK1 7 to 13%. Engine running a little rough. Vacuum leak?

After repairing RH PCV hose nipple fixing vacuum leak, my LT FT improved on both BK 1 2.3% to 6.2% & BK 2 5.5% to 7.8%. Still higher on BK 2 so something has it out of balance?


I was able to chip away epoxy, clean and glue with RapidFix. Stuff has been working good for me. Will see stands the test of time, heat, vibration and pulling on to remove hose.
Fuse box seal.

Pre washing engine, I wanted to protect fuse box best I could from water entry. So I re-sealed it. They have a cork seal in all 100 series fuse box lids. They shrink and dry out. I've been using this cord to reseal them all.
Final prep before engine wash.

With air box, drive belt and pulleys (idler & tensioner) off. I'm near ready to HP wash the engine. I need to cover all openings into engine, from removing the air box. I use aluminium foil, plastic bags or whatever I've around to cover openings. I also sprinkle bake soda and water on and around battery to neutralize acid.

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Looking forward to seeing a clean engine bay. Seems PO must have lived on a dirt road.

After the broken fitting on the air box breaks again, try a threaded brass barbed fitting jb welded into the box. Heat won't be an issue. The main issue is the weight and pulling from the vacuum pipe on the epoxied joint- there's no support to keep it from breaking again- glue by itself isn't enough.
For sure my pulling on PCV hose broke loose the epoxy. I was actually about to drill and thread for a brass nipple. When I noticed the epoxy would just chip off. Which if my glue doesn't hold I'll go back too. But this glue w/powder has really been working well to-date.

I used JB weld once on a IS300 alternator dogs ear that broke off the cast iron block. Stuff held very well. Good suggestions @abuck99
I found that the cracked vacuum hose ends can be trimmed back a little to get to better rubber ( if material is not too hard). There's generally enough free play left over to not stretch hose or put stress on fittings. Not a long term solution but if the hose has any elasticity left it should provide a good seal until you can replace with new hose. Also your tip to use lexol vinylex works great to give vacuum hoses a little added life.
Good trick cutting ends. Most if let alone will be fine in the short term. Once removed like the air box hoses & lines, cutting can buy time as you suggest.

I test rubber hoses/lines by squeezing, if cracks replace. Cutting end until new replacements arrives is a good idea. Thanks @abuck99

Back on to subject of plastic and glue. Could be this glue holds so well because it's a two part, that leaves a rock hard build-up
That build up, leaves a solid bridge between surfaces. I built it up around circumference of pipe, at point it attaches to air box, after cleaning and glue the pipe back in.

You can see a little of the excess build-up here. Glue is slow to dry. But add a drop to the powder and it dries instantly rock hard. That can be drilled, sanded or filled. I was able to hold air box in the air and shake it, by the nipple only. What I do not know is how well it will hold up to heat. Although on a MDX bumper bracket which sat in the sun, it held over time. Also on fan shroud brackets, it's held so far.

Basically it's a supper glue with a powder. If you google super glue and baking soda or super glue bone you'll see
Thats a cool glue hack- basically your creating "filled" polymer to stiffen the bond: you probably could use baby powder (talc is common filler in polypropylene to add stiffness), or better, fine/cut shards of fiberglass cloth mixed into the glue which is similar to plastic marked with -GF like PP-GF which I think the box in question is made from (there is a stamp somewhere).
So after first wash I'm going back to leak(s) found before washing, looking for reappearance. The HP line of the Power steering showed signs of weeping right away. I may de-grease one more time, just to make sure it not some oil I missed first washing. But it looks like I'll replace this HP line and flush PS at same time.

Cleaned up easily. Not other leaks found.
Looking Good!

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