Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!

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Great work really like how you cleaned the interior.
Thanks Danny.

It takes lots of elbow grease. Cleaning Interior, Body paint, Undercarriage & Engine bay which is a big portion of my time on these restores. It is part of the inspection process. As I work on mechanic stuff, cleaning is also a huge portion of my time. Clean makes it look and smell good, it also reveals, preserves & protects.

This one was the cleanest I've had, but even it took ~40 hours. It's a process I keep perfecting with each new restore project.

You've followed my threads, so have a good idea of the different clean products I use. For leather and plastic I use either Lexol products or Leatherique or combination of both in most cases.

I did some comparison test this time and found Leatherique does clean better, but it also will lift some dye out of cracks. This can make seat look a little worst than when started. It also takes more time, in that it needs to be left in to soak and works best during hot weather. Although in this test weather was cool and it still beat out Lexol. The cost of leatherique per uses is 8 or more times that of Lexol.

Lexol has served me well for over 10 years both their Leather cleaner & conditioner and their Plastic/Rubber/Vinyl (P/R/V) car product. I've read they have a plasticizer in their P/R/V and found it rejuvenated my door weather stripe with use over time. Also I can clean Leather, vinyl & rubber in about 5 to 8 hours in one sitting and results are good with Lexol.

As you've seen, I take the time to remove plastic off carpet and soak it all while working on carpet and thresholds. I find grit builds up under thresholds rubbing into paint that needs cleaning regularly. Frequent vacuuming can reduce this sand & grit buildup. I vacuum and vacuum and vacuum before cleaning with a dry carpet shampoo. Toyota recommends a dry shampoo. The dry shampoo I use is at a car wash I found that is super strong. It's so strong I wear a respirator while using and driving home. It leaves a chemical that must dry and be vacuumed out. Each vacuuming it lifts out more dirt that chemical cleaner releases from fibers, then carpet looks and smell better. The floor matts can just be pressure washed. I do some pre & post treating of spots with off-the-shelf spot remover. See Snowy for some spot removers.

I have used woolite to clean carpet and floor mats. When using on carpet to penetrate deep with mildly soapy water, rinsing with clean water and wet vacuuming out. I'll work small areas at a time, vacuuming (wet vac) area so water does penetrate to cushion or floor board any more then I can help. I'll even use compressed air, blowing carpet grim into wet vac nozzle. Eye protect is a must in this method.

Final is painting bare metal under threshold and installing plastic back on carpet.

As always when detailing I use progressive stronger products as needed, always start with mildest.
 
Alert::eek:

When power washing engine, don't spend too much time where intake manifold meets head. Water can enter into intake ports of head. Run engine as soon as done to dry.
 
Weather has been cold but I've been able to catch a few warm afternoon and finish up The Black Knight.

One of the things was a few touch up paint spots, cutting and wax on the hood. The touch up paint is it's job protecting, but still visible at right angle and light. I just keep working spot likes this until either I can't find them, satisfied or run out of time. I'm somewhere between satisfied and out of time.

What do you think? It's two spot that look like UFO just right of center in first two pictures:
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I think it looks great but not a 10 as I said form OP it wouldn't be
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Here's a few more pictures of hood
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The new KOS with TPS are installed.
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This is such a cool color. It changes all the time.
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BEautiful! At first glance, I thought the first picture was an accidental shot of the sky. Then I realized...
 
BEautiful! At first glance, I thought the first picture was an accidental shot of the sky. Then I realized...
Yeah it's a trippy picture!
 
Looks great Paul- Look as clean as that $145,000 100 on Ebay. :cheers:
 
Looks great Paul- Look as clean as that $145,000 100 on Ebay. :cheers:
Thanks. I talked with that guy on ebay and actually I think The Black Knight is nicer ;)
 
Nice work on a nice example.
BTW, is that "bug guard" you have on the hood still available or are they now unobtainium?
 
I'd be sad to see this one go Paul, it looks great. Is the new owner on the forums?
 
Believe me this is a very tough one to let go.:cry:
It's not for me to disclose the buyer, but I don't think we seen the last of The Black Knight!;)
 
I so wish I would have bought this rig! Looks like new! Outstanding work!
Thank you for saying that!

I did have quite a bit of interest. The first person to give me a deposit took it. He did have the advantage of seeing in persons.

I've see, I've not posted pictures of undercarriage, but that is truly amazing. This one I didn't rub down with marine grease, to leave door open for something like fluid film. This is not a clean shot (pictures) but here you can see even the bolts look like new. The oil spot and hand prints are from me flushing fluids, lubing, spraying and general being messy. These are just some shot making sure boots and shock aren't weeping.

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A last minute touch:

Reducing engine cover vibration noise. The VVt-i engine cover has an insulator pad presumably for sound and possibly for heat insulation. It also has 3 foam pads attached to aid in keeping plastic from vibrating or rattling on engine components. These foam pads become damaged with time. Toyota does not sell pads separated form cover. So I use a little of the foam from an extra cooler packing I had in the shop.
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I also pulled cover tightly outward to PS, as I tighten down the holding bols/nuts. Tapping with finger to find and illuminate rattles
 

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