Great work really like how you cleaned the interior.
Thanks Danny.
It takes lots of elbow grease. Cleaning Interior, Body paint, Undercarriage & Engine bay which is a big portion of my time on these restores. It is part of the inspection process. As I work on mechanic stuff, cleaning is also a huge portion of my time. Clean makes it look and smell good, it also reveals, preserves & protects.
This one was the cleanest I've had, but even it took ~40 hours. It's a process I keep perfecting with each new restore project.
You've followed my threads, so have a good idea of the different clean products I use. For leather and plastic I use either Lexol products or Leatherique or combination of both in most cases.
I did some comparison test this time and found Leatherique does clean better, but it also will lift some dye out of cracks. This can make seat look a little worst than when started. It also takes more time, in that it needs to be left in to soak and works best during hot weather. Although in this test weather was cool and it still beat out Lexol. The cost of leatherique per uses is 8 or more times that of Lexol.
Lexol has served me well for over 10 years both their Leather cleaner & conditioner and their Plastic/Rubber/Vinyl (P/R/V) car product. I've read they have a
plasticizer in their P/R/V and found it rejuvenated my door weather stripe with use over time. Also I can clean Leather, vinyl & rubber in about 5 to 8 hours in one sitting and results are good with Lexol.
As you've seen, I take the time to remove plastic off carpet and soak it all while working on carpet and thresholds. I find grit builds up under thresholds rubbing into paint that needs cleaning regularly. Frequent vacuuming can reduce this sand & grit buildup. I vacuum and vacuum and vacuum before cleaning with a dry carpet shampoo. Toyota recommends a dry shampoo. The dry shampoo I use is at a car wash I found that is super strong. It's so strong I wear a respirator while using and driving home. It leaves a chemical that must dry and be vacuumed out. Each vacuuming it lifts out more dirt that chemical cleaner releases from fibers, then carpet looks and smell better. The floor matts can just be pressure washed. I do some pre & post treating of spots with off-the-shelf spot remover. See Snowy for some spot removers.
I have used woolite to clean carpet and floor mats. When using on carpet to penetrate deep with mildly soapy water, rinsing with clean water and wet vacuuming out. I'll work small areas at a time, vacuuming (wet vac) area so water does penetrate to cushion or floor board any more then I can help. I'll even use compressed air, blowing carpet grim into wet vac nozzle. Eye protect is a must in this method.
Final is painting bare metal under threshold and installing plastic back on carpet.
As always when detailing I use progressive stronger products as needed, always start with mildest.