SBC 350 diagnosis

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Anyone use Northern? They seem to have tons of options and will ship here for about $60 usd (peanuts). I'll probably go that route once I know what I need. I've got a good RV Cam, lifters, and rockers... and a brand new Cloyes True roller timing chain... do what I need would be cheap. Some of their kit prices are so reasonable I may buy extra parts... all depends on what's needed.

Is it advisable to have high volume oil pump? Roller rockers? Anything else?

Keep in mind it's about 10:1 compression, limited to 4K rpm, and I really only care about 500-2000 rpm. If a hundred bucks (or so) worth of parts would improve efficiency it's worthwhile... a grand, not so much (unless it was a crazy difference).
 
I do like roller rockers just for the efficiency factor. Since you don't sound like a stab it and steer it kinda guy I would just replace everything with OEM equivalent parts at whatever price point and quality you can tolerate.
 
I'll check them and post up my findings... along with any markings,
 
I do like roller rockers just for the efficiency factor. Since you don't sound like a stab it and steer it kinda guy I would just replace everything with OEM equivalent parts at whatever price point and quality you can tolerate.

Northern has Crane roller rockers for $152... seems reasonable. That said my 20 year old stamped steel ones look almost new.
 
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Head marking
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Other Head
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3970128
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3970128
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Combustion chamber (typical)

As best I can tell, similar to 441 heads, flow like 202 heads, 70cc combustion chamber. Info seems limited. Use older style plugs.

Given I want to run on regular pump gas... if they're 70cc, not necessarily a bad thing. Recommendations anyone?
 
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Impressive... Chevy 350 1969-1980 Master Kit from Northern Auto Parts

Any parts you'd recommend... or brands to avoid?

I've used all the brands they have listed in that kit and never had a problem. But I'm not a guy that builds engines all the time, but I wouldn't use a high volume or high pressure oil pump just a stock replacement pump is all you need. I do like fel pro gaskets and their one piece oil pan gasket.

I have crane roller rockers in the BB in the chevell and they have been in it since I built the engine back in 06. Along with a slew of comp. cam stuff. You can fall off in that rabbit hole quick if your not careful on stuff you really don't need.
 
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If that's the rev range you're using most often, I'd be interested to know the casting number of the cylinder heads currently fitted to your engine.
3970128 from the look of it.
 
Chevy 416 heads are worth a look, they produce good low to mid range torque and have hardened valve seats.
Of course final compression ratio needs considering.
 
Using roller rockers for a 4000- 5000 rpm motor seems a little extreme. Your stamp steel ones should be fine. As Gator mentioned, head parts and work can add up real quick.
 
Chevy 416 heads are worth a look, they produce good low to mid range torque and have hardened valve seats.
Of course final compression ratio needs considering.
It looks like 416 heads would have far too high compression.

The heads I have appear to be around 10:1. It has taken some serious distributor massaging but it ran well on pump gas. I'm not wanting to bump compression, and low RPM performance and economy have been excellent.
 
Only thing i would change in the kit is molly rings, and have the shop put the right finish for them will give a hone grit on the box usuall 2200 grit...

As for the heads 3970126 is a open chamber head, 1.94 intake, made from 1967-1979, early ones are more desireable as they have thicker decks and dont tend to crack as much...

If the bores are good i would just rering and fix the problem, bearing. For a sbc you can get select fit bearings example +.0005. So if the journal is polishable and the rod isn't messed up polish that journal and fit another larger rod bearing. Even if you have to swap the rod for a good one you are still $$$ ahead.. check all the clearance's with plastagauge before you put it back together..

Then get someone to mud ship you a ls motor.. lol...
 
Don't forget I've got that zero-miles rebuilt 76 Long block 350 from my K5 just sitting around.

Hey Mark, I thought I'd pick your brain on this... I can buy a '72 350 out of a C10 that has 72k miles on it for a reasonable price. If I put my RV cam in it with a SP-2P-2 manifold and either the newer 1406 Exelbrock or stock Quadrajet... how will off idle torque be?

I believe I've been running 10:1 compression and the 72 is likely around 8.5:1. I don't want to be disappointed in how it works. Thoughts anyone?

I've got a good Wolverine Blue Racer RV cam from about 1997 before Crane bought them out... I've never been unhappy, and I don't care about hot rod performance... it's a tractor after all. I'd be disappointed if I
Saw a dramatic decrease in fuel economy... but hp doesn't matter.
 
One of the signs of middle age is when you become more interested in how long something will last instead of how fast it will go.

A good 1970s truck engine will probably last as long as your interest in the truck will.
 
I'm about to start on my second 70s motor and I'm just as interested as ever.

As for how fast... the last motor easily hit 95 mph and I decided that was too fast for a 40 and I didn't care to find out it's top speed.
 
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You should be happy with that motor Smurf. My 60 has a very stock Target Master 350 that was installed back in 95. Only upgrades are an Edebrock carb and Accel distributer. Average about 11.5 to 12 mpg in the heavy old Cruiser.
 
Good to know... I've got 17 mpg(us) highway with the old motor and a leaky Q-Jet. I didn't have a chance to really figure out the economy after I put on the Edelbrock. So, the bar is set high.

If I get the new '72 motor, I'll check out the condition of its Q-Jet and decide which carb I'll run.
 
Have you taken it apart any further?
I've only pulled the heads and cam. The oil pan is still on so I've not looked at the Crank and rods. One rod has play, likely due to a f'up rod bearing.

Ask on this complete motor and TH350 trans is $400. Trans is worth $100... and I can sell the motor for $300 any day of the week as a runner. Going this route will have my truck up and running in a week vs 6 months to a year. I'll either keep it or take my time to rebuild my previous motor and then sell it off.
 

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