reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
Now there's a real practical off-road crawler motor.
Sand drags (with a filter), absolutely.
SBC 350 diagnosis
- Thread starter bikersmurf
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Sand drags (with a filter), absolutely.
- Thread starter
- #62
I've even got A/C in the house... not that you'd need it here.
I'll PM you a shipping address if it's in my budget. You can keep the intake and carbs, I've got an SP-2P-2 and a newer Edelbrock waiting to go back on. Oddly enough, I've even got the same valve covers... although mine were all polished since the black was mostly peeled off.
- Thread starter
- #63
That sounds like a piston following behind.
I think you're not far off. My first choice would be to rebuild it... although I don't know that it'd be a practical one. It's not been opened up, but it has about 150k miles on it. It has always been an incredibly strong motor... but at this point it's just a block, crank, and heads... all needing some love.
Parts wise I'm looking at about $500, Machining $1000 plus, plus labor, plus, plus, plus = $2500-3000. I'm even considering doing the pistons, block, and bearings, and either finding some 1/2 decent heads or Vortec heads and not spending a ton on the heads.
Talked to GM: 4 bolt crate, 290 hp, $2825 + tax
- Thread starter
- #65
Unfortunately auto wreckers here demand a premium for everything. For reference, they wanted $1500 for a decent runner SBC. I could likely buy a donor for less and sell the spare organs to recover some.
I know I've read some in the past, but how is the wiring to make an ls work? Is the harness self contained in the engine compartment or integrated with the vehicle harness?
Anyone have experience with Vortec wiring and sensor requirements? I've got a new harness to go in the 40... so it could be done at the same time... just would like to avoid unnecessary headaches.
I would start with taking it apart. It would not surprise me if one bolt from a piston rod is broken and that opens up giving you that sound. You might consider a cheap fix for the short time and search for an upgrade later.
- Thread starter
- #67
It would seem it's time to pull the oil pan. If it is a broken bolt, or something else simple, it may just need minor machining and some bearings.
350 parts are cheap and I'm not putting many miles on it anymore... so a quick fix could last many years. She doesn't smoke, burn oil, or anything else bad... so fingers crossed.
350 parts are cheap and I'm not putting many miles on it anymore... so a quick fix could last many years. She doesn't smoke, burn oil, or anything else bad... so fingers crossed.
spotcruiser
Geezer
I like my '96 5.7l Vortec. It's a drop-in for your 350. The wiring is really not an issue when you have the OEM wiring diagrams.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Agree, vortec is much nicer then the old tbi, and it's a bolt in.
I think Bikersmurf already tried to explain he is not in a position to spend money unless it is absolutely necessary.
A vortec will cost hem more in Canada than it would in the US.
If I had to buy a Vortec it would cost me over 5k€ Where I can buy a complete Lexus with good running v8 for 1,5, just to say things are different in other areas of the world.
Sometimes the best option is the cheapest.
A vortec will cost hem more in Canada than it would in the US.
If I had to buy a Vortec it would cost me over 5k€ Where I can buy a complete Lexus with good running v8 for 1,5, just to say things are different in other areas of the world.
Sometimes the best option is the cheapest.
spotcruiser
Geezer
Interesting on the price of stuff there, lkq has tons of ls motors here, have seen good5.3's for 500$ with everything..
Supply and demand i guess...
If that is the case pull the 350 down and inspect it. If the pistons and bores are good throw a rering kit in it with a new cam and lifters and it will be good for another 40-50k miles .
The 96-2000 vortec 5.7's last a long time and are a good swap. If you dont want the injection they make a carb manifold for it (bolt pattern is different) just make sure you swap the cam gear on the distributor they are a roller cam and hardened.. other than those two things they swap straight for a 350.
Supply and demand i guess...
If that is the case pull the 350 down and inspect it. If the pistons and bores are good throw a rering kit in it with a new cam and lifters and it will be good for another 40-50k miles .
The 96-2000 vortec 5.7's last a long time and are a good swap. If you dont want the injection they make a carb manifold for it (bolt pattern is different) just make sure you swap the cam gear on the distributor they are a roller cam and hardened.. other than those two things they swap straight for a 350.
- Thread starter
- #73
I've dug a little deeper. Heads are off... bores are smooth, almost no ridge, heads look good, valves look good, flattop pistons have no damage on face, and very little carbon.
Found where the noise is coming from... the rear right piston will push down with a tap when pushed. I won't know till it's out, but the connecting rod has "play". It has to be a broken/loose bolt or hammered bearing.
So it's time to rally the troops, clean up the shop, and pull the motor. Then strip her down and measure it up. It's looking like rings, bearing, and perhaps pistons. Then a quick lap of the heads and new valve seals.
I'd rather do that than spend $1500 on another motor with good oil pressure and compression. Downgrading from 180+ psi compression to 140 doesn't float my boat. Until this failed, it has performed extremely well and delivered excellent economy for a 4700 lb brick on 33" tires.
Found where the noise is coming from... the rear right piston will push down with a tap when pushed. I won't know till it's out, but the connecting rod has "play". It has to be a broken/loose bolt or hammered bearing.
So it's time to rally the troops, clean up the shop, and pull the motor. Then strip her down and measure it up. It's looking like rings, bearing, and perhaps pistons. Then a quick lap of the heads and new valve seals.
I'd rather do that than spend $1500 on another motor with good oil pressure and compression. Downgrading from 180+ psi compression to 140 doesn't float my boat. Until this failed, it has performed extremely well and delivered excellent economy for a 4700 lb brick on 33" tires.
With a mild cam, powerpak heads, and a quadrajet my 283 was pushing about 200-225 horsepower if I had to wager a guess. It wasn't a bad little engine. Small-runner SP2P intake and the powerpak gave it super sharp, punchy throttle response.
However, if you're used to 300 horsepower a stockish 283 would feel pretty gutless. Plus, no accessory mounting points on the head, and (unless they've been rebuilt) no hardened valve seats. Not sure how much of the non-hardened seats and modern fuel discussion applies to low RPM motors but it's something to consider.
However, if you're used to 300 horsepower a stockish 283 would feel pretty gutless. Plus, no accessory mounting points on the head, and (unless they've been rebuilt) no hardened valve seats. Not sure how much of the non-hardened seats and modern fuel discussion applies to low RPM motors but it's something to consider.
- Thread starter
- #75
I've decided against the 283. I'd rather rebuild mine... and so far it looks very rebuildable. '416' heads from a 305 would solve a lot of the limitations of the powerpac heads.
I don't care about the top end number... but the idle torque I'd miss. It would chug along at 10 mph at idle without protesting.
Unless I'm mistaken, I've got a solid foundation to build on. Decent heads, a 69 block with minimal wear, flattop pistons, and a spun rod bearing or f'd up rod. Worst case I'll likely need a rod, Crank, and a bore... throw in a rebuild kit and I'll be back in business. So for next summer (or winter). I'd have a healthy motor for another 50 years.
I don't care about the top end number... but the idle torque I'd miss. It would chug along at 10 mph at idle without protesting.
Unless I'm mistaken, I've got a solid foundation to build on. Decent heads, a 69 block with minimal wear, flattop pistons, and a spun rod bearing or f'd up rod. Worst case I'll likely need a rod, Crank, and a bore... throw in a rebuild kit and I'll be back in business. So for next summer (or winter). I'd have a healthy motor for another 50 years.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Bad rod bearing usually damages the rod journal on the crankshaft. Worst case is needing a new crank. Scat has brand new cranks for under $200, at least here in the lower 48!
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Don't forget I've got that zero-miles rebuilt 76 Long block 350 from my K5 just sitting around.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #79
Impressive... Chevy 350 1969-1980 Master Kit from Northern Auto Parts
Any parts you'd recommend... or brands to avoid?
This is what I was hoping to get away with on the 283. If you can make it work with limited/minimal machining - it's definitely your cheapest way out.
I was looking at a rebuild kit and a crank-turn plus a few other misc. pieces and I would have been out about $400. Rock Auto has "enginetech" rebuild kits or something along those lines for a ridiculously low price - not sure of quality but they seem to review well online...That Northern kit, cam included, is pretty hard to beat though. I think an Engintech bearing/ring/gasket kit (no cam, lifters, pistons) was something like $67.
