Not to be a negative Nacy but "Fire Missiles" seems too final. As if to say "this will be over shortly"...I think "deploy chain gun" has a richer "s$&t is about to go down" ring to it
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- #344
Only the R light works on the stock dash with my config. It'd be misleading if I hooked it up anyway, since "D" is Comfort, "2" is Sport and "L" is Crawl.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Looks like a blast to drive...when are you taking it wheeling?
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- #346
Replacement hydraulic bump holders are on the way from DVS - so i can drop the truck down an inch all the way around, install the new front panhard and get aligned - good to go after that.
StaticTorque
SILVER Star
Duuude! That sounds so good! Love it man! Can't wait for my brother to get back working on his LS swap. Are you going to post anything about how you did the heated seats? Id be interested to hear about that too.
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- #348
Heated seats were actually pretty easy - The Sheel-Mann's came with the pads installed. Only real issue was wiring in the JDM switches which had to be pinned out manually.
What had to be run:
- 15A switched power supply
- backlight (both positive and negative so dimming works). Since I pulled my ashtray out I stole the illumination circuit for that and use for both my gauges in the Delta console and the backlight for the seat heater switches.
- Wires and relays to the seat heaters, installed under each seat
I'll snag a picture of all of the wiring when I pull the console for carpet install. Apparently I neglected to do that before I buttoned everything up.
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- #349
DVS holders are out for delivery with UPS. Will be installing tomorrow and driving over to 4WP and sticking the truck on their RTI ramp to flex it out and see what needs to be improved. Will post pics, unless I fall off the side of the ramp, in which case I'll be hiding in shame for the next month.
I would like to know what your doing to correctly adjust the front bump stops on that setup. I'm finding out, but yet to verify with Dave and team, these seemed to be designed for a standard height 80 from what I was measuring. With the 4" front I'm seeing I have to adjust these bump stop's down by 4" to be effective. When I flex it I'm way off from it even touching the BS to the axle let alone even coming close to stopping the shocks from bottoming out. I got really busy since I starting look at adjustments and it seemed to me a mock up 4" metal cylinder would be easy to bolt in and extend the stop where it needs to be. I bought some stackable male/ female 2" x 1/4"-20 hex extensions I get from work I was going to add between the tower and the top of the bump stop (sandwich between original top mount) assuming the side clamp wouldn't be enough to hold it from further compression but haven't had a chance to put them in.
Not super concerned yet as these things just don't flex enough to make me sweat it yet but something I need to make right still. Not aware of anyone else on here running these either.
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- #351
I've been thinking the same thing - That bump is a LONG way from contacting my axle. Given that my rear bump was moved down 2", I'm going to assume similar (or a little more) would be appropriate up front. I'd planned to be super cheesy for now and put a hole saw through some hockey pucks and putting those in the top end of the holders, which would at least give me another 1.5" down. Only concern I have is how the holder will handle any side load on the bumps, given the end of the bump will no longer be seated in the bottom of the holder. I guess worst case I bend some stuff and I need to re-think it anyway. I'm with you though - Hoping Delta comes out with a better engineered solution we can bolt on rather than my exerting my inner Canadian and using pucks. (If I had 2" aluminum bar stock here, I'd use that ... but lazy)
If I have to I'll either fab something myself, or have something built. I like the way Delta builds the majority of their stuff though - Hoping I won't have to. My solution definitely won't be as pretty.
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Will both of you please email me some more info on this?? The Icon bumps should bottom out 2 inches before the stock ones do. Of note, they are designed for up to 3" of lift in their current configuration without adjustment...
If you need spacers, we can make both of you some and send out, but 4" is significant.
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- #353
I'll get picks of it flexed all the way out tomorrow after install. I'll grab some pics of the truck with no springs in and the holders and bumps installed too.
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- #354
And what ... no hockey pucks?
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
I mean...you do you?And what ... no hockey pucks?
LOL, I think I have some pics from post lift. I'll see what Feldrian comes up with but will email you once I can find them. I don't want to muck up his build. I emailed you a while back to confirm the bump stop had 2" of compression to bottom out and I'm pretty sure when I was flexing all she would give me I still had 2" to touch and needed another 2 to go for it to do its thing once we confirmed this. This was with the MRR 4"-6" shock, tire not hitting the fender and shock not bottomed out so it pushed to the deal with it later list but was a bit confused why I was so far off.
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- #357
2" difference, stock bump towers to Delta hydraulics. I put both in the hydraulic press, and the icon bumps do compress more than the stock rubber, so the bottom-out variance is more like an inch. I'll grab more pics on the RTI ramp tomorrow.
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- #358
With the suspension essentially bottomed out (after removing the 1" spacer) I still have a fair amount of shock left. Sitting at ride height I have about 3" of down travel.
Loosen the bump stop collar bolt, slide the bump stop down 2", then tighten the bump stop collar bolt. That's the fix if I'm seeing it right. Once you install the shock bushings the shock should be close to bottoming out.
Looking back on my notes I was getting something similar but 4" when the BS touched the perch and the shock bottomed out. But when I had the spring in and everything on and flexing I got 2" less, so where I got the 4". I'm assuming this was due to the stiff spring in and the arms starting to bind, not sure. The 37's still had some room to stuff tho.
