Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (4 Viewers)

[Roastchestnuts]

You didn’t mention it so I will:
I recommend flushing out the Thermocure with copious amounts of hose water than do a distilled water flush before coolant.
Unless you have gnarly mineral heavy tap water then flush with distilled a couple times.

Curious to see what that first and subsequent flushes look like, mine were brutal.


Left is initial dump, got it running clear after.
Right is first dump after Thermocure.
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Jesus thats crazy! I am going to drive it around for a few minutes and then dump it and flush a few times I guess. Looks like it will be worth it for sure!

 

[RevISK]

I was shocked for sure but my engine is original and who knows if anything like this had ever been done.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Im seconding keep the 2F. Numbers look good for an old 2F.

I replaced valve seals on my old fj40 with a 350 and it ran great after that. No more oil burn/stench.

New cap, flush, new thermostat and give it another try.

Yeah I was pretty happy with the last compression test. after that first wack one. so wait you replaced your valve seals with a Small block..? hahahaha thats funny. Apocalypse now - I love the smell of oil burning in the morning.

Napalm I know but you get the quote.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I was shocked for sure but my engine is original and who knows if anything like this had ever been done.

Yeah the state my engine was when I picked it up last December was less than ideal to be honest. No water in the wrong places at least.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I almost lost a valve in the piston, by accidentally pressing down on a valve stem with my homemade (angle iron-lever) spring compressor. Pressure was lost in the cylinder, but I might have been lucky, perhaps the piston was up far enough allowing me to retrieve the valve, as it didn't drop past the top of the valve guide. Perhaps you can turn the crank so that you can see the piston at a top position thru the spark plug hole, for each cylinder, and then you don't have to worry about loss of air pressure, and dropping your valve all the way down into the combustion chamber?

Also, I dropped a keeper into a push-rod hole. I used a magnetic tool to retrieve the keeper, then lost the tool in the hole. I finally got it them out, but, it was quite a bit of messing-around. My advice is to stuff rags in the push-rod holes, and oil-fill / PCV-hole, to prevent fugitive spring-keepers from derailing your day. In my shop, I employ basket-type coffee filters in place of enormous, yet absorbent paper towel rolls, for most jobs - wiping, polishing, etc. they save valuable space. Also, I used a magnet to retrieve the keepers once the springs were compressed, instead of gambling with caffeine and small parts.

this is fantastic advice for the valve keepers and dropping a valve. Thanks. I am totally going to do both to prevent mayhem and calamity. I have been thinking about those little keepers I am honestly pretty worried I am going to drop one on the ground and not be able to find it. I will have to work pretty slow as to not loose one.

 

[clrussell]

this is fantastic advice for the valve keepers and dropping a valve. Thanks. I am totally going to do both to prevent mayhem and calamity. I have been thinking about those little keepers I am honestly pretty worried I am going to drop one on the ground and not be able to find it. I will have to work pretty slow as to not loose one.

Magnets. Remove the keeper with a good magnet. They are your friend here

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Magnets. Remove the keeper with a good magnet. They are your friend here

Yeah it was easy when the head was off the engine on a work bench. I have not started the project yet but I did get the valve seals in.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Carbide jaw hemostats/needle drivers - come in various sizes shapes and sizes. They provide excellent purchase on hardened stuff, much more than the regular hemostats, which are also very useful automotive tools. You may not be able to use the locking feature due to size but they still allow for precise placement. Ebay and Amoron have good prices.

+1 for magnets, and blocking holes. Cut rags work nicely. I save my used shooting ear plugs - bright colors help prevent being left in place accidently.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

They still look cool with a v8 under the hood. Pteradactyl (as we call it) has a 350 mated to a cool 3 speed. Clocks 80 mph all day long. My young son’s DD. I have raced him my Tundra 5.7 and I have never won. Strong long pulls on the transmission. Better than an 4spd or a 5spd. 10 min access down the road for any engine parts. I hate design obsolescence. I loath lack of parts availability more.

 

[Grayscale]

Inline-engines rule!
(edit) You can spin a Chevy 'stovebolt' inline-6 like a SBC... They have the same piston/stroke ratio, iirc.

 

[charliemeyer007]

A lot easier to wind up a 283 than a 350 IMHO. Some sort of overdrive 5th gear would would freeway cruising much easier, and you can always use the rpm's in lower gears - sometimes its really bad to shift like deep creek crossings.

 

[pb4ugo]

Inline-engines rule!
(edit) You can spin a Chevy 'stovebolt' inline-6 like a SBC... They have the same piston/stroke ratio, iirc.

And the sbc has 2 more cylinders.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

They still look cool with a v8 under the hood. Pteradactyl (as we call it) has a 350 mated to a cool 3 speed. Clocks 80 mph all day long. My young son’s DD. I have raced him my Tundra 5.7 and I have never won. Strong long pulls on the transmission. Better than an 4spd or a 5spd. 10 min access down the road for any engine parts. I hate design obsolescence. I loath lack of parts availability more.

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I looked a posts of this very fj40 when Deciding on my seat upholstery. I love it! I still have my bearing cover and adapter for the sbc and 3speed! I spent alot of time and money going back stock but if stock ever blows up I will probably do the sbc again.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

so figured I would share what the water looked like after the first flush.

this was from the radiator below. Not as dirty as the block.

Below was the second flush.

I am going to do the third flush today and hopefully refill with coolant and install a new radiator cap today. Then start on the valve seals.

Below is my auto class stripping down the SBC 307. we are taking some of the small stuff off before we get it on the engine stand. Like the clutch and bell housing, valve covers and rockers. then Since I need to buy bolts to mount it to the engine stand.

I had a student actually tell me they were excited to come to the class. it was pretty awesome.
Next class goal is to get it on the engine stand and pull the heads. I am actually pleasantly surprised that the plugs all looked Non oily. just running a hair rich.

 

[clrussell]

so figured I would share what the water looked like after the first flush.


View attachment 3722192
this was from the radiator below. Not as dirty as the block.
View attachment 3722194

Below was the second flush.
View attachment 3722193
I am going to do the third flush today and hopefully refill with coolant and install a new radiator cap today. Then start on the valve seals.

Below is my auto class stripping down the SBC 307. we are taking some of the small stuff off before we get it on the engine stand. Like the clutch and bell housing, valve covers and rockers. then Since I need to buy bolts to mount it to the engine stand.

View attachment 3722197View attachment 3722198


I had a student actually tell me they were excited to come to the class. it was pretty awesome.
Next class goal is to get it on the engine stand and pull the heads. I am actually pleasantly surprised that the plugs all looked Non oily. just running a hair rich.

Awesome work with the kids. I bet you would be a fun teacher to have. Not the grouchy old lady I had.

 

[Green Bean]

Good on you for teaching the young adults about auto mechanics. They are quite fortunate to have someone as enthusiastic as yourself teaching them. You are imparting to them skills that they will carry forward for the rest of their lives and that is pretty darn cool.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Good on you for teaching the young adults about auto mechanics. They are quite fortunate to have someone as enthusiastic as yourself teaching them. You are imparting to them skills that they will carry forward for the rest of their lives and that is pretty darn cool.

Thanks! I try. I feel if the students are at least enjoying the work they are doing they are engaged and learning somthing. Most of these students have never even changed oil or repaired somthing on anything mechanical and to see them start pulling an engine apart was pretty cool.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Non Land cruiser related but a question for the crowd -

I am looking at buying a beater truck. I found a regular cab 1983 f250 2wd with the 6.9l idi engine and a 4 speed manual. (not a dully) anybody have any experience with that engine? sounds good. Going to be using for lumber hauling and taking trash to the dump. its a good price IDK if I can pass up.

I was looking for 300 i6 trucks but this diesel caught my eye.

 

[schuy2147]

Non Land cruiser related but a question for the crowd -

I am looking at buying a beater truck. I found a regular cab 1983 f250 2wd with the 6.9l idi engine and a 4 speed manual. (not a dully) anybody have any experience with that engine? sounds good. Going to be using for lumber hauling and taking trash to the dump. its a good price IDK if I can pass up.

I was looking for 300 i6 trucks but this diesel caught my eye.

I just sold my 86 F350 with the 6.9. It was a beast of a truck and not for the faint of heart. No one is learning to drive a manual in that truck! That International engine is literally a tractor-trailer engine. Loud, clacky, stinky, rattly, smokey, did I mention loud? Ha! They're hard to kill. It'll run on just about anything. It's probably going to leak. So be prepared for that. Pretty basic to wrench on. Parts are still readily available. For the right price it'll probably serve your needs just fine.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I just sold my 86 F350 with the 6.9. It was a beast of a truck and not for the faint of heart. No one is learning to drive a manual in that truck! That International engine is literally a tractor-trailer engine. Loud, clacky, stinky, rattly, smokey, did I mention loud? Ha! They're hard to kill. It'll run on just about anything. It's probably going to leak. So be prepared for that. Pretty basic to wrench on. Parts are still readily available. For the right price it'll probably serve your needs just fine.

Thanks! I dont mind wrenching on it. Good its easy to work on and easy to find parts. Its only 2500 so not a terrible price. body has a few rust spots in the usual spots but the rain gutters and most of the cab seems fine.