Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (7 Viewers)

[Roastchestnuts]

I just swapped out to Dobi's from OME-night and day difference. The OME's only had 1500miles and were broken in too

I know its crazy how big of a difference they make. Glad I just took a risk to try somthing different. I was a die hard OME fan too. I had them on almost every toyota I had. they did ride pretty good one my first gen 4runner though.

 

[clrussell]

Thanks! A lot of work but its totaly worth it just for the sound of the 2f engine. Plus with the top off and the winsheild folded down I feel like I am on a safari haha. Breaks on these things are the most annoying thing to do on these early fj40. I dread it. Honestly getting a brake spoon helps. I got one from city racer I think they still have them. OEM Drum Brake Adjusting Tool for Any Toyota - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-drum-brake-adjusting-tool

I actually bent a screwdriver to use as a brake spoon haha. I did like your said and adjusted them out solid then re-bled the rear. It helped about 1.5 pedal pumps. So now I’ve got good pedal with 1.5 pumps. Just not like it should be.

I swapped locations on my master cyl (80 series non abs) and it didn’t seem to help or hurt it. It should be in the rear location but isn’t currently.

Starting to wonder if I have a kinked line where I go to my Proportioning valve and it’s slowing down fluid flow to the rear.

Also considering just spending the money and disc brakes swapping the rear

 

[Skreddy]

I actually bent a screwdriver to use as a brake spoon haha. I did like your said and adjusted them out solid then re-bled the rear. It helped about 1.5 pedal pumps. So now I’ve got good pedal with 1.5 pumps. Just not like it should be.

I swapped locations on my master cyl (80 series non abs) and it didn’t seem to help or hurt it. It should be in the rear location but isn’t currently.

Starting to wonder if I have a kinked line where I go to my Proportioning valve and it’s slowing down fluid flow to the rear.

Also considering just spending the money and disc brakes swapping the rear

Don’t want to hijack but do you have a vacuum booster on your brakes? If so, did you adjust the pushrod?

 

[clrussell]

Don’t want to hijack but do you have a vacuum booster on your brakes? If so, did you adjust the pushrod?

Manual master no vacuum

 

[Skreddy]

Manual master no vacuum

So long as pedal is adjusted correct, I’d bet there’s still air in there. I’m front disc, rear drum with the manual non-abs 80 series master and I can lock all 4 up with a hard stomp. I have my rears hooked to the front port on the master. There’s debate about this but that’s how mine is.

 

[clrussell]

So long as pedal is adjusted correct, I’d bet there’s still air in there. I’m front disc, rear drum with the manual non-abs 80 series master and I can lock all 4 up with a hard stomp. I have my rears hooked to the front port on the master. There’s debate about this but that’s how mine is.

Thanks for the info. Yeah it might be air still. I’m going to get a more trained foot to help me bleed next time.

 

[RevISK]

Thanks for the info. Yeah it might be air still. I’m going to get a more trained foot to help me bleed next time.

I picked up a Motive Pressure bleeder and that has simplified solo brake bleeding immensely.

 

[clrussell]

I picked up a Motive Pressure bleeder and that has simplified solo brake bleeding immensely.

I had one. Lost it. LOL

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Maybe somebody here knows. @120mm I think I saw that you had some issues like mine right now. My temp sensor is not reading correctly. The gage usually is reading on the cold side does not seem to read correctly. Like when it warms up it reads just past cold. but pegged at the cold side. I have no issues with coolant circulating and does not seem to be overheating. I have a 2f sending unit that came with the engine. I think I read somewhere I need an early sending unit and it should work more correctly because of the earlier gage cluster I have? But if I swap the earlier sending unit in I think I need some sort of adapter for the sensor - a union nut because the sensor is longer? Any help with this and clarification would be appreciated!

My oil pressure gage works buts annoying. you tap on it and it moves to a less concerning spot. just like in the movies when the reactor is about to over heat haha. The pressure gage was never hooked up on the sbc.

 

[120mm]

Maybe somebody here knows. @120mm I think I saw that you had some issues like mine right now. My temp sensor is not reading correctly. The gage usually is reading on the cold side does not seem to read correctly. Like when it warms up it reads just past cold. but pegged at the cold side. I have no issues with coolant circulating and does not seem to be overheating. I have a 2f sending unit that came with the engine. I think I read somewhere I need an early sending unit and it should work more correctly because of the earlier gage cluster I have? But if I swap the earlier sending unit in I think I need some sort of adapter for the sensor - a union nut because the sensor is longer? Any help with this and clarification would be appreciated!

My oil pressure gage works buts annoying. you tap on it and it moves to a less concerning spot. just like in the movies when the reactor is about to over heat haha. The pressure gage was never hooked up on the sbc.

You need an adapter to run an early sensor in a 2F. I got mine from Matt's Toyota skunk works.

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Kinda where I am at with the 4speed. I need to save some cash. I still will rebuild it and I already have the transmission apart but it was about a 1000$ difference Just in parts between rebuilding the 4speed vrs just using the recently rebuilt (not by me) 3speed. I would need the adapter for column shifting, transmission bearing kit, and the gear to make the 3speed case work, Not to mention all the extra time I would need to do it. The 3speed just looked too mint not to use. and I was itching to drive it. I also love the column shift now that its in. Just super cool. Plus My wife and I are planning on buying a home here soon and need to start saving some extra cash.

I recommend mastering the 3 speed in all its glory prior to going 4 speed. You might find you like it.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

You need an adapter to run an early sensor in a 2F. I got mine from Matt's Toyota skunk works.

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I recommend mastering the 3 speed in all its glory prior to going 4 speed. You might find you like it.

Gotcha. yeah I was worried about that, But Ill need to get it. I know city racer has oem early senders. Were you having the same issues with your temp sensor? I was skimming through different threads and cant remember.

And Honestly I love the column shift. Its awesome compared to the floor shifter. for what ever reason the gears seem to be longer with the 2f engine installed. Not sure if thats just in my head though. Seems like I keep it in second longer. its also easier to rev match back into first. It all also just have tighter tolerences now that it is all back to oem.

 

[120mm]

I never ran the engine prior to installing the sender adapter.

Though I only torqued the adapter to the block but forgot to torque the sensor to the adapter upon installation, so got a mini-Vesuvius upon start up.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

I feel like that threaded adapter should be very findable via McMaster or something similar. Get a thread gauge and go hunt.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I feel like that threaded adapter should be very findable via McMaster or something similar. Get a thread gauge and go hunt.

Thanks! thats a good idea. I looked at buying a transmission bearing puller from there. I have been meaning to ask how that horn bushing for the steering column is coming along? also I forgot to post it but I installed your fusible link. Gives me some peice of mind! I still need to loom up some of the wires dangling there that are not the fusible link.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Thanks! thats a good idea. I looked at buying a transmission bearing puller from there. I have been meaning to ask how that horn bushing for the steering column is coming along? also I forgot to post it but I installed your fusible link. Gives me some peice of mind! I still need to loom up some of the wires dangling there that are not the fusible link.


View attachment 3609400

The steering shaft/horn bushing got stalled for a couple reasons, but I am hoping to ship it out to @CruiserTrash here soon for molding.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Thanks! thats a good idea. I looked at buying a transmission bearing puller from there. I have been meaning to ask how that horn bushing for the steering column is coming along? also I forgot to post it but I installed your fusible link. Gives me some peice of mind! I still need to loom up some of the wires dangling there that are not the fusible link.


View attachment 3609400

2F block looks like 3/8 BSPT? Thread pitch of Temperature Sender for 2F/3F-E? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thread-pitch-of-temperature-sender-for-2f-3f-e.966250/

 

[Roastchestnuts]

The steering shaft/horn bushing got stalled for a couple reasons, but I am hoping to ship it out to @CruiserTrash here soon for molding.
View attachment 3609409

Nice! I am stoked on this. Its really the only part i need to make my horn function properly from the button.

 

[wolfbak]

I never ran the engine prior to installing the sender adapter.

Though I only torqued the adapter to the block but forgot to torque the sensor to the adapter upon installation, so got a mini-Vesuvius upon start up.

A quick note on the sender - don't use Teflon tape. The gauge relies on good ground from the sender housing to the block, which you don't want to disrupt. I didn't use anything and it sealed up perfectly.

If you are running a bit cool, be sure you have a good rubber gasket on top of the thermostat inside the housing. This is not the housing gasket, but rather sits completely in the housing between the thermostat and the upper housing. If you leave it out or accidentally get it twisted, the motor won't get up to temp - ask me how I know...

 

[Roastchestnuts]

A quick note on the sender - don't use Teflon tape. The gauge relies on good ground from the sender housing to the block, which you don't want to disrupt. I didn't use anything and it sealed up perfectly.

If you are running a bit cool, be sure you have a good rubber gasket on top of the thermostat inside the housing. This is not the housing gasket, but rather sits completely in the housing between the thermostat and the upper housing. If you leave it out or accidentally get it twisted, the motor won't get up to temp - ask me how I know...

I am pretty sure I installed that as I had the same issue from a 3fe engine a few years ago. although I was not 100% sure on the orientation of the jiggle valve on the thermostat. Thats good to know about the sender too.

Weirdly enough the SBC that was in the fj40 had no thermostat. I never checked but when I was taking the SBC out for the swap I realized it never had it installed.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Early sender looks to be 16mm / 5/8” diameter with a 1.5 thread pitch.