Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (1 Viewer)

[pb4ugo]

An old school rad shop should be able to recore your rad and reuse the old top and bottom tanks if they're still good. Everything between the tanks would be new. Or... They may be able to remove your tanks and rod out your existing core and reassemble the tanks. This would be dependant if the core isnt rotten. A recore will cost about the same as a new rad.

 

[120mm]

A tip on the engine and trans installation. I find it much easier to install the transmission with the engine already in the rig than on the ground.

Remove the steering wheel and trans tunnel cover and use a cherry picker to lift the trans up to the engine.

Getting it right the first time is a booger. Once you get it the first time it's easy

 

[theglobb]

Yeah its really cool that its an original radiator. I do have an after market replacement and shroud I can run untill I get this one rebuilt. It is just really cool that its original. Especially since alot had been taken away with the sbc swap. @theglobb Let me know if you know of any place in Wilmington! I have been looking for an excuse to visit you guys.

I am with you on norfolk. I had to get a rear window on a truck replaced up there once and I dont want to ever have to navigate that area again.

Hey, about 5 minutes from my house in Boone there is an old timer who rebuilds alternators and starters, also repaints them etc etc. Does it for cheap, had my Merc 300D alternator rebuilt for $90, troopy starter rebuilt for $147, @svsisu's 24v alternator rebuilt for $90 something... you get the point. There is also a place in Wilmy that rebuilds starters and alternators, I like the guy, don't know if the pricing is as low or not though. There is also a rad shop in Wilmy too, name is Boney's. I took my 3B radiator there to get recore'd but they quoted me at $600, not for labor but the place that controls the actual core material has apparently jacked the price up. This was 2 years ago, maybe call them and see, will need the dimensions of the rad and how many cores it is.

Will happily help with either of these things getting done! Will possibly give me an excuse to go to the Outer Banks to return the items, or trade off to @svsisu when I see him. Sorry I couldn't be there this weekend helping you, I was excited to head your way but of course the weather had different plans.


A few photos of the old head's shop 5 min from my house in Boone

 

[FJBen]

I had my radiator rebuilt almost 2 years ago at an old crusty mom and pop shop. They used my top/bottom tanks and it ended up being $790 all said and done.

That said it’s a 4 core high efficiency that should last a long long time. I would rather support these shops than use some
China aluminums for $350 that fail in a couple years.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

A tip on the engine and trans installation. I find it much easier to install the transmission with the engine already in the rig than on the ground.

Remove the steering wheel and trans tunnel cover and use a cherry picker to lift the trans up to the engine.

Getting it right the first time is a booger. Once you get it the first time it's easy

This is good advice. thanks! I was trying to decide how I wanted to approach this. Its raining today of course so I cant do a whole lot.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

So I got alot done yesterday after the rain passed. my body is pretty sore haha. Was a muddy mess but I got the engine and transmission out. Today If I have some time I will be cutting the SBC mounts out and the battery trey out. Then Hopefully I can pressure wash the engine bay. Lots of sand.. pulled the floor mat up and it was all hiding under there. Going to clean it out today.

Anybody need a SBC that leaks oil like a strainer and oil pressure is questionable.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I also have a question for people that have a 3 on the column. I am not sure how the clutch slave cylender attaches. and I am unsure of how all the linkage goes together right there. I assume I am missing a bracket. if you all cal help with that let me know.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

A little random but if anybody wants a good read with a few saltwagon fj40 shots I wrote an article for a camera websites blog. Its about using a 20 year old digital camera. https://blog.camerawest.com/an-ode-to-a-digital-dinosaur/

 

[RevISK]

A little random but if anybody wants a good read with a few saltwagon fj40 shots I wrote an article for a camera websites blog. Its about using a 20 year old digital camera. https://blog.camerawest.com/an-ode-to-a-digital-dinosaur/View attachment 3572420

Cool read, thanks for sharing.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some updates. I figured out the slave cylinder stuff. I was missing a little bracket. The bracket that holds the 3 on the tree pivot linkage and the slave cylinder. I ended up purchasing from SOR. Now I am at a standstill because its raining. also annoyingly I accidentally cut a break line that I will have to buy. Its the earlier 9mm brake line. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get it from SOR since they have that singular line in stock (aftermarket) but its 50$.

I did cut all the sbc mounts and found the hidden rivet holes where the F mounts were. Whoever welded in the sbc mounts welded right over the air hammered off rivets on some of the mounts. I was very happy that even the little plate on the driver side rear was savable even though they welded strait to it.. I should be able to bolt everything in and drop the engine in once it stops raining. where a garage would be nice. Before I do all that I really want to paint the frame while I am at it. but obviously it needs to be dry.

the top parts of the sbc mounts were the hardest to get off but I did get them off. Dont worry I did clean them up more than this and got that metal from the SBC mount off. and I got all that gunk out of the frame rails too. weirdly it was like solidified grease and dirt on the driver side.

I need to bend this mount up a little but honestly I was worried I was going to destroy it because the rear sbc mount was welded directly on top of it.

Other good news is I should get some goodies in today. Like a air cleaner assembly from @wolfbak and a transmission top plate for column shift from @landcrusher909 and some mounting hardware and a clutch kit. Everything I need to get the engine back in should be here today.

 

[firemanj92]

I also have a question for people that have a 3 on the column. I am not sure how the clutch slave cylender attaches. and I am unsure of how all the linkage goes together right there. I assume I am missing a bracket. if you all cal help with that let me know.


View attachment 3572414

Sorry they are full pics, my phone wouldn't allow me to make them smaller today. The last pic is oriented (front is towards right)

 

[Roastchestnuts]

View attachment 3573622
View attachment 3573624

View attachment 3573627
Sorry they are full pics, my phone wouldn't allow me to make them smaller today. The last pic is oriented (front is towards right)

This is the bracket I figured out I was missing. I also purchased a spring bracket. These are helpful pictures. I will be able to get this all together now. Kinda a rube goldburg contraption.

Thanks!!

 

[middlecalf]

Rather than reposting a bunch of pics here’s a link to my build when I was trying to figure the 3-spd column shift pattern stuff. Hopefully this isn’t too much noise. Good work on your rig, esp. out in the elements!

So here’s today’s venture down the logic path. That path has led me to interesting places in the past, lol. Here goes:

Step 1. Starting at the control lever that’s ultimately connected to the side tranny lever, when it rotates clockwise (looking at the steering wheel) that means either shifting into 1st or 3rd based on the 3-spd H pattern. Which one will be determined in next step. So in the pic that clockwise rotation means the shift linkage it’s connected to moves downward, and the pivot at the rear engine mount translates that movement (counter clockwise rotation) to the connected linkage moving it forward and moving the side tranny shift lever to the forward position. The red arrows show the movements in pics. So that’s either 1st or 3rd.
View attachment 1928820View attachment 1928821View attachment 1928822

Step 2. When pulling the shift lever toward yourself (and rotating as in step 1), that pulls the shift control rod towards you, and from this pic that rotates the curved shift lever on its pivot line and moves the connected linkage toward the front of the vehicle. That in turn moves the top tranny lever to the forward position. Green arrows in pics (incl last two pics above) follow this movemnent. So since the H pattern shows pulling toward yourself (and rotating down) is for 1st gear, that’s what I’m concluding this tranny is currently in, 1st gear.
View attachment 1928824

How far off am I?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Rather than reposting a bunch of pics here’s a link to my build when I was trying to figure the 3-spd column shift pattern stuff. Hopefully this isn’t too much noise. Good work on your rig, esp. out in the elements!

Thanks! not too much noise. its good to reference back too. Right now I really wish the garage was built. its not fun in the elements thats for sure. but at least we all know it can be done in the yard if you need to haha. this helps alot. Going to reference this when I am putting it all back together.

 

[firemanj92]

BTW, Mr T still sells the "rod ends". A couple of them are L-hand thread though. (#3374035011 and 3375035011 connecting rod) for the column shifter ends.

Also check in with @Cruiser Cult for the bushing at the shifter lever up top

 

[Roastchestnuts]

BTW, Mr T still sells the "rod ends". A couple of them are L-hand thread though. (#3374035011 and 3375035011 connecting rod) for the column shifter ends.

Also check in with @Cruiser Cult for the bushing at the shifter lever up top

I actually bought one from @Cruiser Cult almost a year ago... before I realized that I would need to do alot more work to make it a column shift again haha.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some updates: My column shift top plate showed up yesterday along with the battery trey, motor mounting hardware, new exhaust/intake studs, mechanical linkage gas pedal. some things that should show up today: air cleaner, and clutch kit. Some parts like the slave cylender bracket and a break line will be here on monday from SOR. I figured I still have not replaced soft lines so now is a great time because I have the parts I broke a break line so I will be bleeding brakes either way. Unfortunately I am at a stand still because of rain. I wont get done with work today till after 5 and tomorrow when I am done around 3 it will be raining. Maybe Thursday is the day to get the engine shoehorned in. but I may still even wait till I can find time during the weekend. Looks like maybe I will get close to being done at the end of the month at this rate. DARN WEATHER!

 

[120mm]

Some updates: My column shift top plate showed up yesterday along with the battery trey, motor mounting hardware, new exhaust/intake studs, mechanical linkage gas pedal. some things that should show up today: air cleaner, and clutch kit. Some parts like the slave cylender bracket and a break line will be here on monday from SOR. I figured I still have not replaced soft lines so now is a great time because I have the parts I broke a break line so I will be bleeding brakes either way. Unfortunately I am at a stand still because of rain. I wont get done with work today till after 5 and tomorrow when I am done around 3 it will be raining. Maybe Thursday is the day to get the engine shoehorned in. but I may still even wait till I can find time during the weekend. Looks like maybe I will get close to being done at the end of the month at this rate. DARN WEATHER!

Just be advised that in most rigs, once you start replacing a soft line, you will be in for replacing each and every piece of brake line, hardware and what not.

Those soft lines don't come out without a fight; a fight that will destroy nearly everything in the system.

Which is why I have a full set of soft lines sitting in my tool chest, waiting for an actual failure.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Just be advised that in most rigs, once you start replacing a soft line, you will be in for replacing each and every piece of brake line, hardware and what not.

Those soft lines don't come out without a fight; a fight that will destroy nearly everything in the system.

Which is why I have a full set of soft lines sitting in my tool chest, waiting for an actual failure.

true I need to inspect them to see. I am unsure that they have ever been replaced witch does make me nervous especially on the single resevior master. If the breaks fail its not going to be great.

 

[120mm]

true I need to inspect them to see. I am unsure that they have ever been replaced witch does make me nervous especially on the single resevior master. If the breaks fail its not going to be great.

IME, single pot drum brakes don't just fail at one shot. You usually gets lots of warning, except in TV shows and movies.

The biggest issue is wet drums; and then I remember my emergency brake/braking using the gearbox protocol.