Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (37 Viewers)

[Roastchestnuts]

The mid-60's rear hatch, no lock, all rattle?

The rear hatch is cool. the guillotine scissor style hatch! However one of the brackets had a crack in it so its not in it right now until I cant find one of these brackets or weld the one I have back together. the front door has a lock and I think you can actually lock the rear hatch from inside actually.

 

[pb4ugo]

So I am thinking about a couple of mods on the fj40. My fj40 has a mechanical style linkage for the gas peddle. I am changing out the stock carburetor (a very worn out rodchester 2 jet) for the sbc 350 to a Holley 2 barrel 2300 500cfm carb. While I am sure I can get the mechanical linkage to work I am contemplating getting this and a few other things to switch to a cable actuated throttle. I feel like this would feel smoother too. Ccot has a kit for a webber carb that seems interesting. I dont know if it would work for a holley carb on a sbc. https://www.coolcruisers.com/pecaaswe.html Just wanting some opinions on this. Not sure what other 350 fj40 owners have done.

separate from the carb project, I need to hook the heater hoses back up. I know right now the where the hose fittings on the engine have been blocked off. I just need to put some hose fittings back in and connect the hoses back up. However I need to double check but I am pretty sure the heater hoses or heater dont actually have any sort of block off valve. I want wondering if anybody had any input on any valves for this? I know Spector off road has a kit. Land Cruiser Front Heater 40, 45 & 55 Series - https://www.sor.com/CAT186.sor?TABPAGE=TAB1# (at the bottom of the page in the link)View attachment 3165008 This looks like the most factory option to me and the fact that I could turn the heater on from the dash seems like a huge bonus.

I am out of town right now and I cant wait to get tinkering and fixing stuff. of course all of my parts arrived the day that I left home for veterans day weekend.

Probably the most common carb on a SBC conversion would be a 4 barrel, like Q-jets, edelbrock , and maybe a holley. I would look to see if Summit or Jegs might have a better option for your carb cable linkage. The heater control valve you reference can be found thru several vendors on this site for lesser $$ and the stock pull cable can probably be found in the classified section. You can list a wanted ad for one too. You could also put a ball valve in the heater hose routing under the hood which would not be as fancy and more manual. Try googling City Racer heater control valve.

 

[Grayscale]

I might have your bracket. Is it screwed into the hardtop side, in the shape of the number 9?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I might have your bracket. Is it screwed into the hardtop side, in the shape of the number 9?

I will post a picture after work. but I am pretty sure it is. and I would gladly purchase said bracket if its the one I need. Thank you.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Probably the most common carb on a SBC conversion would be a 4 barrel, like Q-jets, edelbrock , and maybe a holley. I would look to see if Summit or Jegs might have a better option for your carb cable linkage. The heater control valve you reference can be found thru several vendors on this site for lesser $$ and the stock pull cable can probably be found in the classified section. You can list a wanted ad for one too. You could also put a ball valve in the heater hose routing under the hood which would not be as fancy and more manual. Try googling City Racer heater control valve.

I am planning on adapting a new Holley 2 barrel 500cfm I got from a friend. I know this is probably not the best option but for now It will work till I can get a better intake. its at least better than the Rochester 2 jet thats on it. unfortunately The intake on this particular sbc is the older style Rochester intake and I don't really want to do a full intake swap at this time. In the future I will swap it out if I keep the small block set up. I am not even sure I will keep the sbc that long however. I see maybe a diesel swap in the future. Not sure yet. (rambling thoughts). to do just a simple ball valve with the heater is what I was kinda thinking for the heater. I saw the one on city racer. I thought it would be cool to actuate it from the dash though. I actually recently purchased a ton of parts that I will be installing in the coming weeks. Looks like they will be getting more money soon too haha.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I Installed the new holley 2300 carb last night and the SBC Runs alot better. much smoother and easier to drive. The old Rochester carb was in dire need for a rebuild. Ill keep the old carb and rebuild it at a later time and maybe sell it or keep as a back up. The carb I put on was only a holley 2 barrel. I cant imagine how much pep it would have with some sort of 4 barrel. The studs for the adapter are super long. I might use some appropriately sized bolts and switch that out today. I still need to button up some things but it runs great!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Todays after work adventure: fuel gage wiring, speedo cable installation, and possibly windshield wipers and blades. Ill post photos as I go. If anybody has any tips for the speedo cable or fuel gage wiring let me know. I have done speedo cables before just not on an fj40

 

[middlecalf]

Only tip I have is to make sure the battery is disconnected when working in/on/around the cluster.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Todays after work adventure: fuel gage wiring, speedo cable installation, and possibly windshield wipers and blades. Ill post photos as I go.

Only tip I have is to make sure the battery is disconnected when working in/on/around the cluster.

Good tip. don't want to short anything out.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

New old steering wheel installed after work. I also installed a new speedo cable and now the speedometer works.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I might have your bracket. Is it screwed into the hardtop side, in the shape of the number 9?

@Grayscale it is shapped like a 9. here is the broken bracket. PM me if you have one! id love to get this scissor door back! I put the other one in a box of parts... I gotta find the non broken one haha.

 

[Grayscale]

I have two of them in a box with so many neat things, it will likely distract me for hours. I'll do my best digging them out. I'll PM you with the results.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I have two of them in a box with so many neat things, it will likely distract me for hours. I'll do my best digging them out. I'll PM you with the results.

Hahahah Love those kind of boxes. Thanks!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I have an early style wiper arm and blade with the side bolt. Does anybody know where I can get just the side bolt for mounting? or if you can mount the later arms to an early wiper motor? I also need another wiper arm early style because one of mine the tip where you mount the blade is missing/broken off. Lots of wiper arm questions. the good thing is the wiper motors work and I have 2 arms but one is pretty much broken. I have blades too.

 

[CBFJ]

The color is one of my favorites Toyota ever did for sure. I am looking into options to clear coat the patina. its really beautiful. Right now I believe it has a boiled linseed oil coat on it to keep the rust at bay.

BEAUTY! Great color, patina, stance...looking forward to more pics. Re: clear coat, I would steer clear of it because that will stop the patina process, and effectively end the story being written on the body! Unless saltwater is rusting it away, I'd follow wngrog's advice in his definitive guide, which does include the BLO you mentioned:

Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks

I keep retyping my “formula” for old Patina preservation so I decided to make a thread so I can just link my response to how I preserve my old Land Cruisers the way I do. For the last 3 years I have been learning how to preserve Land Cruisers in their original state. Protecting their original...

forum.ih8mud.com

More pics please!

 

[Grayscale]

One (left) has already been repaired, (inner countersunk screw hole) yikes. I wonder if there is something wrong with the metallurgical properties of this part, or its installation or use? On the early door frames, I've identified oxy-weld process that was used to hold the bracket for the screws. I've never had luck with oxy-weld - too much scale in the puddle, pops like corn. Check out my JIS impact 'phillips' #3 - super nice for rusted body stuff, and you can it it with a hammer - kind of.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

One (left) has already been repaired, (inner countersunk screw hole) yikes. I wonder if there is something wrong with the metallurgical properties of this part, or its installation or use? On the early door frames, I've identified oxy-weld process that was used to hold the bracket for the screws. I've never had luck with oxy-weld - too much scale in the puddle, pops like corn. Check out my JIS impact 'phillips' #3 - super nice for rusted body stuff, and you can it it with a hammer - kind of.

View attachment 3169800

Yeah thats 100% the part I need. I bet they break easy from the stress on them when the hatch falls. (where the guillotine door gets its name on these) it looks to be a really weak spot in between the two mounting holes looking at it.

 

[Skreddy]

I Installed the new holley 2300 carb last night and the SBC Runs alot better. much smoother and easier to drive. The old Rochester carb was in dire need for a rebuild. Ill keep the old carb and rebuild it at a later time and maybe sell it or keep as a back up. The carb I put on was only a holley 2 barrel. I cant imagine how much pep it would have with some sort of 4 barrel. The studs for the adapter are super long. I might use some appropriately sized bolts and switch that out today. I still need to button up some things but it runs great! View attachment 3168472

Sorry if I missed it. Do you know exactly what engine you have? Have you checked casting numbers? There’s also a pad on the block in front of the passenger side head or right above the timing cover that will be stamped and tell you exactly what it is and what it came out of.
I ask this because some of the sbc’s will respond really well to a 4 barrel carb, where it can just be a waste of time and effort with others. Knowing exactly what engine you have can help determine if it’s worth the swap or not. I see the alternator on the left, which could mean there’s no accessory holes in the passenger head which would denote an engine 68 or earlier (or at least the head is).

Looking good so far!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some updates today: I installed a new horn relay, put a new bumper on it, found out where the wiring to the fuel sending unit was cut. will be rewiring that tomorrow after noon. I will add some photos tomorrow of the progress.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Sorry if I missed it. Do you know exactly what engine you have? Have you checked casting numbers? There’s also a pad on the block in front of the passenger side head or right above the timing cover that will be stamped and tell you exactly what it is and what it came out of.
I ask this because some of the sbc’s will respond really well to a 4 barrel carb, where it can just be a waste of time and effort with others. Knowing exactly what engine you have can help determine if it’s worth the swap or not. I see the alternator on the left, which could mean there’s no accessory holes in the passenger head which would denote an engine 68 or earlier (or at least the head is).

Looking good so far!

I bleieve the engine is from 1971. I gotta double check but I have it written down. Ill post in the morning. I know the holley I put on made a world of difference. it is more drivable for sure. honestly has more get up and go than the fj80 and the kzj78 I had in the past.