This guy had some seats and tops at one point. Maybe knows where seats may be available.
FJ40 Parts - Chris Wade - https://chriswade.smugmug.com/FJ40-Parts/
FJ40 Parts - Chris Wade - https://chriswade.smugmug.com/FJ40-Parts/
Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #63
I thought this was a cool product. I knew at some point I wanted to be able to listen to music or the news. I found out you can buy these little blue tooth modules that connect to speakers. the coolest part is the on/off/volume knob matches my Headlight knob. I have yet to hook up speakers but I am thinking Ill put them in the corners near the kick vents. I think SOR carries some speaker mounts that fit there. I probably need to do some restoration on the other knobs.
Also I feel like Yoda is fitting with the color of the vehicle - My fiance's nice touch. Yoda would drive a spring green fj40.
Also I feel like Yoda is fitting with the color of the vehicle - My fiance's nice touch. Yoda would drive a spring green fj40.
- Thread starter
- #64
@Grayscale for the win! I got these in the mail today. One of mine was broken so I could not install the scissor rear door. now after I get home from Thanksgiving with my in-laws
Everyone can identify that the broken one, lower above, that it was welded? The space between the holes is now different. I wonder if you could fill the holes, then drill them out to the correct spacing, and use a regular hex-head screw with lockwasher? If there is room, that is. Someone nearby has a welder and milling machine, but, I wouldn't attempt it if they are cast iron, just fabricate it by connecting a steel bushing to a strip of cold-rolled-steel with some holes in it. Even if these were forged steel parts, that countersink is no good for the shape aspect of this design. Maybe it doesn't need to be countersunk so much? When I removed the repaired one from the hardtop side, it was fastened with only one screw. I've never seen a bi-fold-door in person.
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I saw this at the hardware store yesterday. They come in 1/2" and 5/8" iirc. They even have the offset that makes them shaped like a 9. They are intended for a pedestrian residential gate. The steel would be really easy to drill, and forgiving because they are forged. I wonder if they can be cut to dimension of the parts for the bi-fold hatch brackets? You might even find a nylon bushing to shore up slack if necessary.
- Thread starter
- #67
I did alot today. I started at the rear break cylinder that i suspected was leaking. (it was. along with the passenger front) I replaced all of the wheel cylinders. The picture below is how the drum with pads and cylinders came off. I think the spring orientation is incorrect. (this is the rear passenger side.) I should have gotten a picture but the rear driver side had both cylinders facing up. I didnt think that was correct. most of the break parts were fairly new looking my guess is it sat too long after somebody went in there and replaced everything.
I used this diagram to help me orient my cylinders and springs below.
I got 3 tires completley done and then came the front passenger side. I ended up sheering both break lines at the fitting closest to the break cylinders when I was trying to get the 17mm break-fitting out of the old cylinders. I broke the bottom of 41 and 40 in the diagram below. The classic break job mis hap
My biggest question is should I bite the bullet and buy the two break lines from SOR? I think those two little lines cost 55$ each? or should I go else were? anybody know where I can find the old 9mm break lines in that diagram above? specifically 41 and 40 in the diagram? I am not really looking to re do all my lines. they are all in good shape other than the two I managed to mommick up.
I also saw that Napa has a 9 to 10mm adapter in one of the forums. Would that be worth it then just fabbing up some more breaklines in 10mm? Let me know your thoughts.
I used this diagram to help me orient my cylinders and springs below.
I got 3 tires completley done and then came the front passenger side. I ended up sheering both break lines at the fitting closest to the break cylinders when I was trying to get the 17mm break-fitting out of the old cylinders. I broke the bottom of 41 and 40 in the diagram below. The classic break job mis hap
My biggest question is should I bite the bullet and buy the two break lines from SOR? I think those two little lines cost 55$ each? or should I go else were? anybody know where I can find the old 9mm break lines in that diagram above? specifically 41 and 40 in the diagram? I am not really looking to re do all my lines. they are all in good shape other than the two I managed to mommick up.
I also saw that Napa has a 9 to 10mm adapter in one of the forums. Would that be worth it then just fabbing up some more breaklines in 10mm? Let me know your thoughts.
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- Thread starter
- #68
that looks like it might work. I do have two complete ones now thanks to you! Istarted working on that today but part of the old one is stuck on the door. I am trying to decided If I want to heat it up with a torch to get it loose. I put some penetrating oil on it and its soaking it today.
Both brake springs on your rig go behind the brake pads - toward the differential, like your pic of old ones above ( which is really a pic of the backside 😂). That illustration above is for later drums that have the pad retention clips in the middle of the pads (that’s what that hole is for). Better illustration for your rig:
Also, do your new cylinders have the ramped adjusters? If not, and your old ones do, swap them out (easy to thread in/out to swap out) and install so the ramps slope downward toward the axle, i.e. high is to the outside. This really helps the pads to fully return to neutral when brake pressure is relaxed. I wouldn’t mix 9mm and 10mm lines/fittings, your messing with varying the brake pressure and therefore rates. Go either one or the other. @Rainman doesn’t make brake lines anymore, but maybe he’s got some leftovers he’d be willing to part with. Also @65swb45 or @pardion .
Also, do your new cylinders have the ramped adjusters? If not, and your old ones do, swap them out (easy to thread in/out to swap out) and install so the ramps slope downward toward the axle, i.e. high is to the outside. This really helps the pads to fully return to neutral when brake pressure is relaxed. I wouldn’t mix 9mm and 10mm lines/fittings, your messing with varying the brake pressure and therefore rates. Go either one or the other. @Rainman doesn’t make brake lines anymore, but maybe he’s got some leftovers he’d be willing to part with. Also @65swb45 or @pardion .
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- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks! this helps. The Cylinders I put in do have the ramped adjusters I believe. (the little metal thing on the side?) I bought them from city racer. Yeah I decided not to do the 10 mm unless I do the whole break system. in the summer I am thinking I am going to replace all the lines with new ones. I have seen full kits for 1958 - 70 at cruiser corps and spector. they are just a little bit out of my budget right now. it would be nice for peace of mind. however the breaklines are not bad. I just bent one and it broke off because I was not paying attention.
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- #71
A package showed up today! I had a lincoln mig welder before but a hurricane flooded it. I decided to go with this eastwood because of the price and I like the tack weld feature. I originally wanted the hobart 140 but went with this. Just waiting on gas and having the time to start welding in patch panels. I have a Christmas break from teaching starting on the 16th. maybe then!
Nice machine. I've got the Eastwood 180 and love it. The tack weld option is nice.
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- #73
Thats good to hear. The only reason i didn't go for the Hobart 140 was the tack weld option. I almost went for the Eastwood 180 but I felt like the 140 is good enough for what I want to do. Body work and Occasional art project. Plus I just have a shed right now that I work out of for my tools. Its a nice shed but still saving any space is helpfull. My Fiance and I are hopfully going to start building a house in a year or two and one of the things we both want is a nice garage.
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- Thread starter
- #74
Does anybody have an good tips or things to watch out for when doing a rear sill and rear tub patches? (other than measure once cut twice) I bought a CCOT sill and sill panel and some patches. I am planning on doing this panel repair sometime during my Christmas break from teaching after the 16th. I am getting into the mindset of doing the repair. I may need to purchase some more body mounts in the rear.
One of the things I know will need to know is the placement for the mounts for the rear swing out doors and spare tire swing out. anybody have any measurements for that. Particularly the rear spare tire swing out. The lower hinge I think has drooped some because of the rust.
One of the things I know will need to know is the placement for the mounts for the rear swing out doors and spare tire swing out. anybody have any measurements for that. Particularly the rear spare tire swing out. The lower hinge I think has drooped some because of the rust.
- Thread starter
- #75
Might be a stupid question But is it necessary to remove the fiberglass part of the hard top to install the top of the windshield weatherstripping? My weather stripping there is gone (was not there when purchased) I just purchased a replacement from City Racer. They had one for the 60 - 65 land cruisers for a good price. I am really looking forward to cold winter air not blowing in my face from that small gap haha. Also I am starting the bug catcher weatherstripping that I got from @cruiseroutfit Will post photos when I am done.
Also I am doing some smaller projects while I wait for my breaklines! I am very grateful for awesome mud members selling me some good used breaklines.
Also I am doing some smaller projects while I wait for my breaklines! I am very grateful for awesome mud members selling me some good used breaklines.
You need to just get the roof (with gutter) up enough to seat the windshield-roof weather strip. It’s a bit of a bugger to get in proper position as it gets flexed backward and up against the roof but when new it wants to sit upright and a bit forward. Not sure it will help but if you scan through my 45 SWB fixed top build you’ll see some of what the struggle is, same install essentially but the 45 roof is a lot smaller than the 40’s. Kind of starting around post #627 Builds - 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1963-fj45lp-swb-fixed-top-sweet-simplicity.1026303/page-32
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One thing I forgot to mention. You have to use Eastwood's tips for their mig guns. Lincoln's, Miller's, and Hobart's tips wont fit.
- Thread starter
- #78
So got all the breaks and break cylinders and break lines straitened out But I need help!! for the life of me I cant get them bleed. clear no bubble fluid is coming out of all cylinders and Nothing is leaking. However it takes 3-5 good pumps to get firm breaks but it does not stay firm long. The master cylinder seems to be spitting break fluid back up in the reservoir. when It goes soft. Almost like it is compressing air? I feel like I need to bleed the master but unsure. any tips for bleeding the breaks on a early 1964 fj40 would be greatly appreciated.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Do you have all the adjusters so the shoes are tight against the drums? Is your pedal pushrod length too long or short? I’d start there.
- Thread starter
- #80
The break shoes are adjusted correctly. I am not sure about the pedal pushrod adjustment. I have not messed with the master cylinder at all yet other than adding fluid. Would the pedal pushrod be something I would have to adjust even though it was working before I replaced all the brake pads and cylinders?
