Safely jacking under rear diff housing ? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
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761
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Toronto, NSW, Australia
I have a pair of landcruiser phil's jack adaptors which are excellent. But I have a beef that's more generic. when trying to jack up under the 80's rear diff/axle housing the supplied factory three-piece rod plus handle is fiddly to use, flexes a lot and it's difficult to stop the jack from 'dancing' as the turning action of the hook doesn't directly translate to rotation of the screw mechanism input shaft.

Has anyone ever been able to come up with an answer? I don't have the spare wheel suspended under the cargo area floor and even without that it's still not very safe.

Here's the factory jack with adaptor and an older (40 series I think?) handle to turn the three-piece hooked rod with:


To operate that handle I'm half crawling under the back corner of the vehicle. I think the hook fitting to the screw jack input shaft is a fair part of the problem, but the jack itself is otherwise good as it'll lift twice as high as a regular hydraulic bottle jack.

Is there a solution or is this an artefact that we're stuck with?

If I need to do serious work I will use a trolley jack to lift and get jack stands positioned, but out on the field a big trolley jack is out of the question.

Craig.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2003
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3,978
Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My old patrol has a one piece 'rod' which is definitely a heck of a lot nicer to use versus the multi-piece 80 setup. Obviously the multi-piece is to allow it to break down and fit in the tool bag. The patrol's one clicks into the rear seat clips - long gone, so now it just sits in the rear storage boxes for easy/quicky access when needed. They are both great and reliable jacks, but the one piece rod is definitely superior in use. The one piece also makes a great tool when moving the camp oven around and removing the lid etc :)

Maybe get or make a one piece and find a place to store it.

cheers,
george.
 
Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
7,919
Location
Phoenix
The jack is designed to be as compact and mechanically reliable as possible and still be adequate to the task. Emergency use is really all it is intended for. Whenever I have had to use it I have been forced to crawl fully under the truck to position and hold it in place until it has a load on it. Not ideal, but I can't think of any solution that doesn't compromise for size and/or reliability. It's there when you need it, and it works every time. Unless you're @richardlillard1
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
10,719
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
I slide the jack into position under the truck by getting down there. I initially adjust the jack until it is snug by hand, without the bar in place.

Then I can stand back with the long hook combo and crank to my heart's content.

Or, if I'm feeling lazy, I attach my 18 volt dewalt drill to it and go up.or down fast.

I also do that with the spare tire under the truck. Saves lots of time and it's actually easier to control.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Joined
Mar 10, 2004
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25,006
Location
Scottsdale Arizona
I slide the jack into position under the truck by getting down there. I initially adjust the jack until it is snug by hand, without the bar in place.

Then I can stand back with the long hook combo and crank to my heart's content.

Or, if I'm feeling lazy, I attach my 18 volt dewalt drill to it and go up.or down fast.

I also do that with the spare tire under the truck. Saves lots of time and it's actually easier to control.

What fitting are using to attach rod to drill?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
10,719
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
What fitting are using to attach rod to drill?
I use the first two rods and just stick the rod into my 1/2" drill. I have a jack kit from a 2006 Tacoma and I am aware it has some differences, but I am unaware how much.
My "handle" is an L-Shaped handle that the second rod inserts into. The male end of each rod its towards me when using the jack.

Maybe an original kit cannot do this?
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
51
Location
North Carolina
Off the top of my head I'd say find some box tube or bend some flat stock steel into a horse shoe shape then drill a hole for a pin. Then weld a 3/8 impact socket to it. Then grab some cheap 3/8 x 24" socket extension and fab up some sort of crank. If you wanted to get fancy fab the whole extinction out of tube and sleeves that pin together.
 
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Bambusiero

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Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
720
Location
Chandler, AZ
Just throwing out an idea...The full inside vehicle width - just in front of the 2nd row seat, near the floor, all the way from one door to the other - is available to store a very long one piece rod - maybe - fiberglass tent support? aluminum tube? small dia thin wall chromoly tube? Would not really detract much from foot space. Sits there - forgotten, stowed until the day you need it?
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
3,255
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Idk what the danger is if the tire is mounted before jacking and before lowering. What are you doing under the truck with it on the jack and the tire removed?
 

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