rusted nuts and bolts (1 Viewer)

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All cruisers have them so I posted here!

Subject: Penetrating Oils

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop recently published some information on various
penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out
torque on rusted nuts.

Below listed, a subjective test was made of all the popular penetrates, with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF - Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any
commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with
equally good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the
price.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50-50 mix. (ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid)
 
Hi All:

Thanks for the info Plowboy.

Link to the Mechanic's Workshop article on this test?

Thanks,

Alan
 
ATF+lacquer thinner will be on the menu this weekend. I have an old HVLP primer gun I use for projects just like this. Hopin' it'll be like putting warm butter on hot pancakes:D!! I have an FJ40 frame I'm going to be tearing down nude within the next few weeks. Thanks for the info:cheers:!! I'll post my results once I soak the frame.:cheers:
 
I'm a diehard Kroil user, but the ATF/Acetone mix has me curious----will try on the hardtop removal--
Thanks
 
How does this ATF/Acetone (or ATF/Lacquer thinner) mix react to paint?

Rudi
 
I have been using this home brew and advocating it for the last 20 years or so. But the best mixture is not just ATF/Acetone...


Most of my buddies call it "Mark's oil" because they never listen when I tell where it came from LOL.

I have found nothing that comes close to it. nothing.

I got the formula from the gun enthusiast world, where it is widely knows as "Ed's Red".

Ed Harris, was a quality control engineer for Ruger. He modernized a bore cleaner that was originally developed by Col. Julian Hatcher in 1920, substituting modern equivalents for the original materials (such as sperm whale oil).


I came across it back in the days of Fidonet when the internet was just starting to see general usage and realized that it would make a great penetrating oil for automotive uses. I mixed up a gallon and have never used anything else since. Everyone who has used it swears by it. I have no doubt that the full mixture is even more effective that the simplified version tested in the OP.


Here is a link to what Ed had to say about it as he put the word out...

http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9


Here is a link the the original formulas from Col. Hatcher...

http://books.google.com/books?id=yE...enal+Cleaner+No.18,&source=bl&ots=AAArZB3tdi&


And my super simplified version...

Equal parts diesel fuel, dextron type ATF, acetone and mineral spirits.


That's it... mix up a gallon and never look back.


Mark...
 
Last edited:
Rudi, I have never seen it damage paint. I have never poured it over a hood and left it there , but I have gotten it on paint a lot over the years and never had a problem.


Mark...
 
How do you store the home brew? Acetone evaporates quickly by itself - maybe not when mixed with the other stuff?
 
The acetone and the mineral spirits will evaporate out of the mix over time if left open. Just don't store it in an open container.

And, while cheap spray bottles seem to be an excellent way to apply it, the acetone damages whatever type plastic they use in the valving all that I have found, and they quickly quit working. A small squirt bottle works best. to apply it.

Or one of those not so cheap air pressurized metal containers that the Snap On man sells for use with bulk brake cleaner. That is the ideal... but a bit spendier.


Mark...
 
This is an old thread, but I was curious if anyone that has used added Lanolin to the product. It would seem to give it a some sticking and lubricatiing properties.

Just curious.
 
I work in the natural gas business and we use this stuff on rusted bolts and couplings:

http://www.trizolube.com/TRIZOL_WEBSITE/TPS.html

It works quite well, even on bare steel parts that have been rusting underground for almost 100 years.
 

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