Rust...should I buy anyway? (1 Viewer)

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Ok.... I'm thinking about buying my first fj60. It drives great and has been very well maintained. But it has some rust in the usual spots. Will I regret buying this or should I go for it? How much would you estimate to patch 10 rust spots and completely repaint?

Any advice is much appreciated!
 
Wheeling rig? Buy it if the price is right... A project you want to bring back to nice shape? I would take a mechanical basket case with a good body as a starting point ahead of a rusty rig with good mechanicals.
 
How much would you estimate to patch 10 rust spots and completely repaint?

Without photos, no one can reasonably speculate on this.
 
Read through my thread on this attachment...Sounds like my truck was a lot like yours.

Been working on our 62...

I think I made about 14 patches while working on it. You can make your own much cheaper than buying them - just takes time. Be sure to check the wheel wells really well, and the cargo area beneath the back carpet for sure...
 
I bought with rust and I've got no regrets. Makes me not worry about driving the truck every day. I've got no plans to fix the isssues any time soon.

8,000 miles this year all over the country.

Leave it rusty and enjoy.
 
the price point really makes the rust/no rust thing a deal braker.

1K and rusty to just go wheel, cool..

10 K for a rusty rig, Run away..
 
Agree with @SteveH, we need to see some photos to make a better judgement call. But ultimately it comes down to how much work YOU want to do or are willing to pay to have done.
 
Check the frame mine has a great solid body
And the frame is toast
 
If you want to repaint it it will not be a trial rig so search for rust free.
if you patch up and like a 4x4 trial and trials were nature rules buy it.
Mine has a lot of tree and plant scratches but it brings me to abandoned places.
 
If you want to repaint it it will not be a trial rig so search for rust free.
if you patch up and like a 4x4 trial and trials were nature rules buy it.
Mine has a lot of tree and plant scratches but it brings me to abandoned places.
We call that Nevada Pinstriping... If you are planning on doing some wheeling with it or overlanding but want to paint, you may also want to look into an industrial or farm equipment based enamel. These are supposedly "harder" paints and thus should offer a bit more protection than a standard paint job against such items. But then again, hitting a rock will dent you pretty much no matter what!!
 
Can you do the work yourself? Are you able to weld? It just has to hold together not look pretty, that is what a skim coat of filler is for.

Mine
both wheel wells rusted and mostly gone.
quarters 50% gone on Driver side
Interior has many holes (about 10) including the drivers foot area.
Frame is ok IT will last for another # of years but will need attention in 5-7 years, but then i will tear the whole thing apart.

I pickup up some patch panels for the quarters and wheel wells
I have almost finished the drivers side wheel well.
Fixed the floors (welded patch and then seam sealed)
and now am starting on the passengers side.

Unless the rig is completely gone nothing cannot be be repaired. From repairing the frame to the body.
For what ever reason everyone must have a rust free body. But lets face it, they are getting harder and harder to find. my FJ had a rebuilt engine, new clutch, new radiator etc etc. All in all about 8K invested in repairs or upgrades with receipts in the last 5 years.

Rust can be repaired easy. Metal bends. If there is mechanical work done with receipts and the rust looks repairable then go for it.

Paint. That will depend on what you want. When i had my Chevelle painted it was 6K to do. It looked awesome when done.
While my FJ will be my daily driver a cheap paint job can be done for 2K or less depending on who does it and how well it is done.

So the moral is this. If you can weld, have any clue how to do body work you can save a ton of cash. Just get receipts for any work that has been done.

Factor this
Cost of the rig
Cost of repairs
Cost of upgrades (tires, bumpers, suspension, anything inside)
Cost of budy work (metal does cost money still)
Cost of Paint

Add it all up and look at that total. Now see what you can find that is already built and compare

Had mine not had all of the mechanical done I may have passed. I am glad I did not.
One thing for sure you will learn alot
 

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