Rust Prevention? (1 Viewer)

[Taksang]

Hey guys,

Got a 2001 LC and would like to prep the undercarriage against rust. Winters are not severe in Mid-TN but roads occasionally salted. Any undercoat/spray products recommended for a Southern truck? Experience with shops or coatings? Frequent washes enough? Thanks!

 

[Luke M]

I’ve tried most of the rust preventatives and have always come back to AMSOIL HD Metal Protectant or RP-342.

 

[Kabanstva]

I’ve tried most of the rust preventatives and have always come back to AMSOIL HD Metal Protectant or RP-342.

Yeah that stuff is perfect. I don’t use it inside the frame because it doesn’t creep but everywhere else it’s awesome.

 

[Luke M]

Yeah that stuff is perfect. I don’t use it inside the frame because it doesn’t creep but everywhere else it’s awesome.

I heat it up prior to using it and use a wand to spray inside of the rails. Works out great and dripped out of any holes.

 

[SaturnAscends]

I'm not a fan of Cosmoline and the other wax-based undercoatings. They're not as forgiving, and could easily leave a gap in protection if you don't know what you're doing.

 

[Luke M]

It's worth the effort, the end result pays off. This is my originally CA LC100, now a winter vehicle in IL. Pictures are of the clear cosmoline product, so nothing is hidden.

 

[Kabanstva]

It's worth the effort, the end result pays off. This is my originally CA LC100, now a winter vehicle in IL. Pictures are of the clear cosmoline product, so nothing is hidden.

Clear cosmoline? Where are you getting that and what’s the brand? I’ve never seen clear Cosmoline. It’s always been amber colored since I can remember the first cars porsche applied this stuff to in the 70s and 80s…

 

[Luke M]

Clear cosmoline? Where are you getting that and what’s the brand? I’ve never seen clear Cosmoline. It’s always been amber colored since I can remember the first cars porsche applied this stuff to in the 70s and 80s…

Sorry, I meant the non dyed cosmoline. I see the cosmolinedirect sells a black one. Yes it’s still amber in color.

 

[Kabanstva]

I'm not a fan of Cosmoline and the other wax-based undercoatings. They're not as forgiving, and could easily leave a gap in protection if you don't know what you're doing.

Yup exactly. You can heat it all you want but the bottom line is it cures dry within a 10hr period and stops creeping once it’s dry. Fluid film and similar wet products keep creeping for months/years.

I have two cars I fluid filmed and together theyve seen close to ten winters, never undercarriage washed and never garaged. Over 100k miles of driving in the nastiest chicago weather. Stuff work is the bottom line. You only touchup only around the high splash areas aka around the wheel wells every fall if you’re only using fluid film. There’s zero need to re-coat the entire undercarriage. It takes me less than half hour to touch up those spots and it’s easy since I remove the wheels anyways to swap for winter tire setup.

 

[baltistyle]

To add to the convo, I have been using a combo of fluid film as well as surface shield for the past few years. I purchased the official fluid film gun but have never used it. I have successfully used the cans, sometimes with the spray paint adapters (makes an innie can top able to be used with the thin spray wands).
The thin wands such as the brass tipped Eastwood aerosol nozzle get in every panel and frame without the need for drilling.

I have found that with the cans they must be applied on a warmer day. The fluid film is thin and flows and works great with the wands, and the thicker surface shield likes to be open blasted while shaking. The blaster shield lasts way longer and stays wet, and seems like fluid film mixed with Vaseline. The blaster surface shield will look dripping wet so many don’t like to work on it, while the fluid film covers in dust and wears off sooner.

I personally don’t want a product that does not flow, as that’s the way to protect long term.

 

[Rednexus]

Fluid Film or Woolwax applied with the gun is also economical. $40 for a gallon of Fluid Film or $60 for a gallon of Woolwax vs. $12 for a 12-oz spray can. It sprays easily with my 8-gallon compressor. My coating (Woolwax Black on the outside and Fluid FIlm on the inside) is still holding up very well around 2 years after the last application, other than in the wheel wells where it can get blasted off. I touch those up a couple of times a year, which has resulted in a really nice/thick black coating developing. I personally don't mind the dust collection of the lanolin materials very much, it kind of makes a nice coating that further encapsulates the steel. Where I've scratched it away while wrenching, the underlying frame is still wet and shiny.

Regarding the wetness, the stuff will get in you when you wrench. However since they are lanolin-based it wipes off your skin easily and is actually more or less a lotion. Having something non-toxic for myself and the environment (considering I drive my GX though lots of pristine creeks on our 4x4 trails here) is a plus.

 

[Luke111]

The guys at IPOR used Eastwood rust encapsulator, internal frame coating and chassis paint to finish it off. The question is should I use Woolwax, Fliud Film or AMSOIL HD Metal Protectant or RP-342 as additional protection?

 

[Kabanstva]

I guys at IPOR used Eastwood rust encapsulator, internal frame coating and chassis paint to finish it off. The question is should I use Woolwax, Fliud Film or AMSOIL HD Metal Protectant or RP-342 as additional protection?

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Amsoil HDMP will look the most like an oem finish once it dries. Fluid film will always look like an oily/greasy mess. I guess you decide which one you prefer. They all work.

 

[BradBrad]

The guys at IPOR used Eastwood rust encapsulator, internal frame coating and chassis paint to finish it off. The question is should I use Woolwax, Fliud Film or AMSOIL HD Metal Protectant or RP-342 as additional protection?

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Looks amazing. How much do they charge

 

[Formerjeeper]

I have been using Woolwax for a few years and now do it on all of our cars every fall. Super happy with it. 140K-250K miles on our 3-Toyota fleet and not a spot of rust anywhere. I'm in Cincinnati so plenty of salt and slush in the winters. I don't do any undercarriage spray washes during the winter.

 

[BradBrad]

I have been using Woolwax for a few years and now do it on all of our cars every fall. Super happy with it. 140K-250K miles on our 3-Toyota fleet and not a spot of rust anywhere. I'm in Cincinnati so plenty of salt and slush in the winters. I don't do any undercarriage spray washes during the winter.

Thanks for the response

 

[Hornd]

All 4 of our Ohio Toyotas get an Annual Bath of Fluid Film.
I buy 5 Gallon Bucket - last time Zoro was Cheapest.
Found Large Syringes on Amazon and use that to fill the Qt Spray Bottles that go on the Astro Sprayer (Amazon)
It's about $40 per Gallon per Vehicle.

I just put 2 gallon on our Super Rusty Lexus GX to get it fully coated.

I'm sure the same amount of FF out of Spray cans would be well over $100 at $10 can.

Removing Wheels will do a much better Job.

For Surface Prep I put Hot Garden Hose in Frame Tube to rinse out Sand. Knock off Loose Rust with Wire Brush.

Keep it off the Exhaust, Spare, Brakes, etc.

Spray the Hinges and inside the fenders. It has literally Prevented my Truck from becoming a Pile.

I spray the Exhausts with Silver VHT to combat Corrosion.

Spray the inside of Door Frames with Silicone Spray in Winter to Prevent them Freezing Shut

**Never Ever do an Encapsulator unless you are 100% sure you will have good Adhesion. If it traps moisture against the metal you will have holes before you realize the product has Failed. Also good Luck getting anything off the Chassis when it's coated in a hard Coating.
A can of Brake Cleaner melts FF right off, then I recoat. It is the best thing you can put on Fastners and Rubber.
Yes you will be covered in black if you have to do Chassis Work - No Escaping it.

 

[BradBrad]

All 4 of our Ohio Toyotas get an Annual Bath of Fluid Film.
I buy 5 Gallon Bucket - last time Zoro was Cheapest.
Found Large Syringes on Amazon and use that to fill the Qt Spray Bottles that go on the Astro Sprayer (Amazon)
It's about $40 per Gallon per Vehicle.

I just put 2 gallon on our Super Rusty Lexus GX to get it fully coated.

I'm sure the same amount of FF out of Spray cans would be well over $100 at $10 can.

Removing Wheels will do a much better Job.

For Surface Prep I put Hot Garden Hose in Frame Tube to rinse out Sand. Knock off Loose Rust with Wire Brush.

Keep it off the Exhaust, Spare, Brakes, etc.

Spray the Hinges and inside the fenders. It has literally Prevented my Truck from becoming a Pile.

I spray the Exhausts with Silver VHT to combat Corrosion.

Spray the inside of Door Frames with Silicone Spray in Winter to Prevent them Freezing Shut

**Never Ever do an Encapsulator unless you are 100% sure you will have good Adhesion. If it traps moisture against the metal you will have holes before you realize the product has Failed. Also good Luck getting anything off the Chassis when it's coated in a hard Coating.
A can of Brake Cleaner melts FF right off, then I recoat. It is the best thing you can put on Fastners and Rubber.
Yes you will be covered in black if you have to do Chassis Work - No Escaping it.

I go back and forth on the rust encapsulation process. The KBS system seems to be the most thorough. I was thinking about doing that and then applying FLUID FILM or PB Surface shield to eliminate any moisture or oxygen getting to the treated surface. Thoughts on that?

 

[Luke111]

Looks amazing. How much do they charge

I depends on the condition of your truck and I can’t speak for IPOR but use this as a range
$1800-$3800

 

[kevgentile]

I go back and forth on the rust encapsulation process. The KBS system seems to be the most thorough. I was thinking about doing that and then applying FLUID FILM or PB Surface shield to eliminate any moisture or oxygen getting to the treated surface. Thoughts on that?

Any of the "rust encapsulator" systems are 50/50. I have been using any one of them since 1995 starting with Miracle paint, which I think is the best. Prep work is the key and with mediocre prep the results will not be as favorable. I've seen this stuff come off in sheets because the rust underneath lifts off the surface.

I think it's just too expensive to net ok results. If you get the loose rust knocked down and a decent etch I prefer Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer in the quart cans, the aerosols won't work as it doesn't have the right additives to slow rust. The key is to get a few brushed on coats with a full 24 hours in between each coat. I'd let the final coat cure for a few weeks and apply a flat or satin black Rustoleum top coat. I'd also let the top coat off gas for a couple weeks and then throw your preferred wax based sealer on over that.

The key to the RMP is cure time, it needs to off gas. I have used this with tremendous results and there are a number of sources I can point you to to verify similar results. The nice thing about the cure time is you can knock each part out in a weekend and not have to exhaust yourself.

 

[Hornd]

Any of the "rust encapsulator" systems are 50/50. I have been using any one of them since 1995 starting with Miracle paint, which I think is the best. Prep work is the key and with mediocre prep the results will not be as favorable. I've seen this stuff come off in sheets because the rust underneath lifts off the surface.

I think it's just too expensive to net ok results. If you get the loose rust knocked down and a decent etch I prefer Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer in the quart cans, the aerosols won't work as it doesn't have the right additives to slow rust. The key is to get a few brushed on coats with a full 24 hours in between each coat. I'd let the final coat cure for a few weeks and apply a flat or satin black Rustoleum top coat. I'd also let the top coat off gas for a couple weeks and then throw your preferred wax based sealer on over that.

The key to the RMP is cure time, it needs to off gas. I have used this with tremendous results and there are a number of sources I can point you to to verify similar results. The nice thing about the cure time is you can knock each part out in a weekend and not have to exhaust yourself.

Once metal has started to Corrode all bets are off on the Adhesion and it's nearly Impossible to get to bare metal which is required for 100% Adhesion.

If you have Repainted something and had it rust again this is the Problem.

That is why an Oxygen Barrier is Preffered over an Encapsulator but they essentially keep the Oxygen from Oxidizing. Encapsultor in theory would be for life where as oil need Reapplied.

Encapsulator is Poor for Moving Parts as Rust will Infiltrate.

Encapsulator is Poor for Anything that Needs Removed ie Fastners as it is designed to last forever.