Rust Prevention - Michigan

[diesel22]

@diesel22

For $500, there are there are commercial rustproofers in Michigan - here's one semi-close to you: Undercoating Rust Prevention – LEVEL Upfitters of Grand Rapids - https://levelupfitters.com/undercoating-rust-prevention/

Here's another one that uses Woolwax: Undercoating Rust Proofing (On Sale $100 Off) - SprayTech Coatings in Grand Rapids - https://spraytechcoatings.org/rust-proofing-undercoating-near-me/

It might make sense to have it professionally done, and then YOU (every time you get under your truck) look for areas that need touch-up and shoot them with Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. Depends on how you want to spend your money and how much you trust these people to put enough on. Under no circumstances, should anyone apply a fully drying 'tar' type undercoating or sound deadener. It is literally worse than nothing at all, as it peels back and ultimately traps water/salt/sand and promotes rust-out.

The “Black Wax” option from the second link you provided interests me. It does say it is breathable, I was looking into the website of the product itself and it seems comparable ? to an RP-32 type product. Any thoughts on this? I also don’t want to apply a tar based product to trap stuff in but it doesn’t seem like this does that.

Black Wax Coating

Shop Undercoating in a Can "Original" Black Wax coating in aerosol spray cans up to bulk 54 gallon drums. Proven rust protection for cars, trucks, trailers, RVs, and other equipment.

undercoatinginacan.com

 

[delz05]

The “Black Wax” option from the second link you provided interests me. It does say it is breathable, I was looking into the website of the product itself and it seems comparable ? to an RP-32 type product. Any thoughts on this? I also don’t want to apply a tar based product to trap stuff in but it doesn’t seem like this does that.

Black Wax Coating

Shop Undercoating in a Can "Original" Black Wax coating in aerosol spray cans up to bulk 54 gallon drums. Proven rust protection for cars, trucks, trailers, RVs, and other equipment.

undercoatinginacan.com

In the years I have been doing frame restoration and repair work, I have come to learn that along with a prime/paint/coat final finish, there are no short cuts to take. You have to remove as much of the corrosion as possible, then neutralize the oxidation so it does not turn into corrosion, then “clean” with an acid wash of sorts. After doing so, prime paint and coat (optional based on location and weather induced conditions, along with vehicle usage). You should not just try to coat and cover, it never lasts, regardless of the formula and composition of the product.

A band-aid over cancer will only cover the cancer, it will not kill it!
It really is that simple…

First hand knowledge and fighting Cancer!

 

[diesel22]

In the years I have been doing frame restoration and repair work, I have come to learn that along with a prime/paint/coat final finish, there are no short cuts to take. You have to remove as much of the corrosion as possible, then neutralize the oxidation so it does not turn into corrosion, then “clean” with an acid wash of sorts. After doing so, prime paint and coat (optional based on location and weather induced conditions, along with vehicle usage). You should not just try to coat and cover, it never lasts, regardless of the formula and composition of the product.

A band-aid over cancer will only cover the cancer, it will not kill it!
It really is that simple…

First hand knowledge and fighting Cancer!

Agreed, I learned that with my 02 4Runner a while back.

Fortunately for this LC I have no corrosion, starting with a blank slate this time!

 

[SteveH]

That black wax product looks competent (non drying), but there are likely much cheaper options. Petroleum is petroleum and a non-drying greasy product will stop rust. Woolwax and Fluidfilm, applied heavily and as needed, will do all you need.

In Michigan in the 1970s, we cut 90wt gear oil with gasoline and squirted that in doors so that it ran out the bottom (closing the doors on newspaper overnight) and that worked very well, but of course, stunk a lot. Rust usually starts in seams and crevices, and that's what needs to be coating or filled with grease/oil/petro to stop rust.

 

[diesel22]

That black wax product looks competent (non drying), but there are likely much cheaper options. Petroleum is petroleum and a non-drying greasy product will stop rust. Woolwax and Fluidfilm, applied heavily and as needed, will do all you need.

In Michigan in the 1970s, we cut 90wt gear oil with gasoline and squirted that in doors so that it ran out the bottom (closing the doors on newspaper overnight) and that worked very well, but of course, stunk a lot. Rust usually starts in seams and crevices, and that's what needs to be coating or filled with grease/oil/petro to stop rust.

Creative option back then, what part of Michigan? I’m sure it did have quite the smell!

 

[SteveH]

I grew up in Midland, Michigan - home of Dow Chemical, and spent liquid brine (a waste product from Dow) dumped on roads to melt ice and hold down dust.

For rustproofing, at other times, we mixed ATF and roofing cement (the liquid kind), put it in a sprayer, and rustproofed an '86 Toyota Dolphin motorhome. Another homebrew trick it to add paraffin to ATF, heat it, and apply it with a brush or sprayer. When it cools, you have a gooey, sticky, petroleum goo on the surface. Likely not very durable.

A local gas station would apply (and sell you) Texaco rustproofing, which is sold like this: Texaco Rust Proof Compound L - The Lubrication Store - https://www.thelubricationstore.com/product/texaco-rust-proof-compound-l/. At one time, Texaco sold a thicker and a thinner version, for different climates.

 

[diesel22]

I grew up in Midland, Michigan - home of Dow Chemical, and spent liquid brine (a waste product from Dow) dumped on roads to melt ice and hold down dust.

For rustproofing, at other times, we mixed ATF and roofing cement (the liquid kind), put it in a sprayer, and rustproofed an '86 Toyota Dolphin motorhome. Another homebrew trick it to add paraffin to ATF, heat it, and apply it with a brush or sprayer. When it cools, you have a gooey, sticky, petroleum goo on the surface. Likely not very durable.

A local gas station would apply (and sell you) Texaco rustproofing, which is sold like this: Texaco Rust Proof Compound L - The Lubrication Store - https://www.thelubricationstore.com/product/texaco-rust-proof-compound-l/. At one time, Texaco sold a thicker and a thinner version, for different climates.

I’m a Northwood grad, very familiar w/ your stomping grounds!

 

[diesel22]

All the rustproofing advice in this string is very sound. I grew up in Michigan (Midland) where brine was sprayed on the roads in my town and everything dissolved. Doing yearly touch-ups of rust prevention is critical. Rust is like erosion - you don't solve it with one attack, you merely defer its attack.

If this is your 'forever' fun four-wheeling baby, then don't drive it on the worst, gloppiest days. The worst thing you can do is park it in a heated or semi-heated garage. The heat activates the salt and the closed environment (along with Michigan humidity) assures that it will never dry. My neighbors heated their garage to 70F and had cars with rust holes in the doors after 2 years.

I would sure try to find a winter-beater and park your nice Calif. 100 inside all winter.

I didn’t plan to go the winter beater route but wondering if this might make sense if the price can be talked down a bit like under $10k

https://www.apexautosinc.com/details/used-1999-toyota-land-cruiser/110757517

 

[SteveH]

Per the Carfax, it looks like its entire life was in NY. Failed a safety inspection in VA and then approved and registered a couple months later. Without seriously good under-truck photos, I would look elsewhere. It has GOT to be a rusty McBucket underneath. Beaters aren't $10K!