Rust Prevention?

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Joined
Jan 7, 2022
Threads
5
Messages
15
Location
Tennessee
Hey guys,

Got a 2001 LC and would like to prep the undercarriage against rust. Winters are not severe in Mid-TN but roads occasionally salted. Any undercoat/spray products recommended for a Southern truck? Experience with shops or coatings? Frequent washes enough? Thanks!
 
Once metal has started to Corrode all bets are off on the Adhesion and it's nearly Impossible to get to bare metal which is required for 100% Adhesion.

If you have Repainted something and had it rust again this is the Problem.

That is why an Oxygen Barrier is Preffered over an Encapsulator but they essentially keep the Oxygen from Oxidizing. Encapsultor in theory would be for life where as oil need Reapplied.

Encapsulator is Poor for Moving Parts as Rust will Infiltrate.

Encapsulator is Poor for Anything that Needs Removed ie Fastners as it is designed to last forever.
Corrode or Surface rust ?
 
I've had great experience with Krown if there's a dealer in your area. $140 to spray the car with a thin creeping oil. They spray inside the rockers and door panels too, it's quite thorough. Get it done once a year and your car won't rust.
 
I've had great experience with Krown if there's a dealer in your area. $140 to spray the car with a thin creeping oil. They spray inside the rockers and door panels too, it's quite thorough. Get it done once a year and your car won't rust.
Thin Creeping Oil = All the Used Gear Oil, Tranny Oil, and Diff Oil.

Fluid Film is Consistency of Mayonnaise and it creeps nicely.
 
I have been using Woolwax for a few years and now do it on all of our cars every fall. Super happy with it. 140K-250K miles on our 3-Toyota fleet and not a spot of rust anywhere. I'm in Cincinnati so plenty of salt and slush in the winters. I don't do any undercarriage spray washes during the winter.
Nice, do you do this yourself or a vendor? I'm planning on bring a SoCal Tacoma to Ohio. My initial plan was to HDMP in CA and then bring to OH. From what I've read woolwax over HDMP won't melt it off? Confused what the best method would be. Coming from CA any sign of rust is giving me anxiety lol.
 
Nice, do you do this yourself or a vendor? I'm planning on bring a SoCal Tacoma to Ohio. My initial plan was to HDMP in CA and then bring to OH. From what I've read woolwax over HDMP won't melt it off? Confused what the best method would be. Coming from CA any sign of rust is giving me anxiety lol.

Old thread, so I’m not sure if I’ve replied here before without rereading it all. I’ve been doing my car myself for years now. If you want to do it DIY, the first time I would suggest buying about 10 cans of product. If you don’t want the wet look outside, only use something like fluid film in the interior of the frame rails and body panels, and then use the wax spray on everything that you can visually see. Personally, I like the wetness of fluid film because it will creep into all of the areas that I don’t spray versus waxes, which will not do that. If you buy cans, buy one of the spray tips with a long tube that has a metal tip on it, not the plastic tip, and you might need spray paint Can adapters, depending on the connection to the nozzle/trigger. The little 1/8 inch long tubes will fit into the body panels such as the trunk or doors if you remove trim or a screw versus having to drill..

You can check my profile for some pictures, and you’ll see the bottom of my truck is very pretty:)
 
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Old thread, so I’m not sure if I’ve replied here before without rereading it all. I’ve been doing my car myself for years now. If you want to do it DIY, the first time I would suggest buying about 10 cans of product. If you don’t want the wet look outside, only use something like fluid film in the interior of the frame rails and body panels, and then use the wax spray on everything that you can visually see. Personally, I like the wetness of fluid film because it will creep into all of the areas that I don’t spray versus waxes, which will not do that. If you buy cans, buy one of the spray tips with a long tube that has a metal tip on it, not the plastic tip, and you might need spray paint Can adapters, depending on the connection to the nozzle/trigger. The little 1/8 inch long tubes will fit into the body panels such as the trunk or doors if you remove trim or a screw versus having to drill..

You can check my profile for some pictures, and you’ll see the bottom of my truck is very pretty:)
Cans are Crazy Expensive ie $10 for 12 Ounces. A gallon is 128 Ounces so there are 11 Spray Cans in a Gallon.

A Vehicle Never Coated will use 1-2 Gallons
A Gallon of Fluid Film is $45 at Amazon or Autzone and $20 Astro Sprayer (Need compressor) at Amazon and go to town.
Don't Spray the Rotors or Exhaust (burns off)
Wear Junk Clothes or Tyvek Suit.
Tons of Youtube Vids on how to go about this up to Drilling Panels and Putting Plugs in Spray Holes.
It's not a Difficult Task, but it can be dirty.
Personally I buy 5 Gallon Buckets of FF and have Prefilled Qt Containers so when I start Spraying I do not stop. I wear Nitrile Gloves.
It is much better to spray when it is hot or you can put cans in Hot water Bath to get FF to flow better.
FF has the Consistency of Mayonnaise. It is Lanolin from Sheep Wool so nearly completely Harmless.
Turning Compressor Pressure down will yield better Results than high Pressure.
**If Frame Tubes are Really Rusty I spray them out with Compressed Air using every hole in Frame. It may be Better to do this in the Yard.
 
Cans are Crazy Expensive ie $10 for 12 Ounces. A gallon is 128 Ounces so there are 11 Spray Cans in a Gallon.

A Vehicle Never Coated will use 1-2 Gallons
A Gallon of Fluid Film is $45 at Amazon or Autzone and $20 Astro Sprayer (Need compressor) at Amazon and go to town.
Don't Spray the Rotors or Exhaust (burns off)
Wear Junk Clothes or Tyvek Suit.
Tons of Youtube Vids on how to go about this up to Drilling Panels and Putting Plugs in Spray Holes.
It's not a Difficult Task, but it can be dirty.
Personally I buy 5 Gallon Buckets of FF and have Prefilled Qt Containers so when I start Spraying I do not stop. I wear Nitrile Gloves.
It is much better to spray when it is hot or you can put cans in Hot water Bath to get FF to flow better.
FF has the Consistency of Mayonnaise. It is Lanolin from Sheep Wool so nearly completely Harmless.
Turning Compressor Pressure down will yield better Results than high Pressure.
**If Frame Tubes are Really Rusty I spray them out with Compressed Air using every hole in Frame. It may be Better to do this in the Yard.
I have a compressor system and also use gallons of fluid film, but I am saying what is the easiest way for someone to be successful DIY without spending money on lots of extra equipment. FYI Home Depot had FF last year for 5 bucks a can. The first year I used cans I used about 10 or 11 cans and the second year after I used about six cans… and those cans are still less than a pro doing it.

A great tip is to heat up the cans in hot water or if you do wind up using gallons to use a bucket heater to get the fluid very thin and able to spray really well. It’s the only way to get it to work well when the temperatures are below 70° outside in my very honest opinion.
 
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