RTH Needed - Worse hose then PHH? (1 Viewer)

[Paul_L]

I have been fighting a coolant loss problem for some time now.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/767747-another-coolant-loss-thread.html

Well today I spotted a new leak. It looks like there is a coolant hose from the block to the underside of the intake manifold. It is leaking from the block side. (Edit: It is not the PHH but it is the #1 Bypass Hose)

How hard is this to replace? What size is the hose? Do I need to remove the intake manifold? (Edit: It looks like the Throttle Body needs to be removed)

Help!!!

Thanks in advance!

Paul

 

[Paul_L]

Well I found info here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/766230-phh-time-2.html

And here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/611072-mystery-leak-not-phh.html

Any tricks to accessing this hose?

 

[mills13b]

I might be mistaken but I seem to have read on here somewhere that a cat used big long needle nose pliers, with the jaws bent at 45 or 90 degrees that made the PHH a breeze.

 

[Pin_Head]

There are a couple of things to make it less pesky.

Remove the drivers side wheel and lower the axle so you can reach the PHH while sitting (especially for a lifted truck).

Minimize the time you spend reaching underneath by cutting the PHH in two and letting it drain.

Remove the tube first by either removing the two bolts first (if you have tiny hands and a lot of patience) or by breaking off the lower mounting tab by rocking the tube back and forth until it breaks. Lift the tube out and install the new hose and clamp on the bench.

Underneath, remove the block half of the hose and spring clamp. A bent needle nose pliers is a help here, but it is a lot easier with the tube out of the way.

Install the tube and tighten the other clamp underneath.

Install the upper hose and bracket bolt.

Have a beer.

 

[Paul_L]

I've already done the PHH but now I've found a leak from what is apparently the #1 bypass hose. Searching found several people who have replaced the hose with bulk hose, but fail to state the size. I may try George's shortcut of cutting the leaking end of the hose off & reconnecting it, I can then order the correct hose later.

 

[robertaleon]

Did mine while replacing the HG; and believe I did it during throttle body assembly so I had decent access. If you do this you may have to replace the gasket between the TB and upper intake manifold as the FSM calls for replacement.

 

[Kernal]

From CDan's post in the second link above:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/80-series-te...k-not-phh.html

"The #1 bypass hose from the back of the head up to the rear of the throttle body is ~1/2 inch OD and originates at the head a couple inches in front of the PHH bib."

 

[Paul_L]

From CDan's post in the second link above:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/80-series-te...k-not-phh.html

"The #1 bypass hose from the back of the head up to the rear of the throttle body is ~1/2 inch OD and originates at the head a couple inches in front of the PHH bib."

Yes I saw that, but it says 1/2" OD, I assume he meant 1/2" ID?

 

[cruiserdan]

Yes I saw that, but it says 1/2" OD, I assume he meant 1/2" ID?

Nope, I meant OD. The ID is ~5/16".

 

[Paul_L]

Well even though I ordered some hoses & T-Stat from CDan, I spent some time last night & trimmed about an inch from the head side of the #1 bypass hose & reconnected it. Today was the first day in quite some time I have not had to add any coolant after driving. Keeping fingers crossed that the bypass hose was the last leak.

 

[rolliges]

There are a couple of things to make it less pesky.

Remove the drivers side wheel and lower the axle so you can reach the PHH while sitting (especially for a lifted truck).

Minimize the time you spend reaching underneath by cutting the PHH in two and letting it drain.

Remove the tube first by either removing the two bolts first (if you have tiny hands and a lot of patience) or by breaking off the lower mounting tab by rocking the tube back and forth until it breaks. Lift the tube out and install the new hose and clamp on the bench.

Underneath, remove the block half of the hose and spring clamp. A bent needle nose pliers is a help here, but it is a lot easier with the tube out of the way.

Install the tube and tighten the other clamp underneath.

Install the upper hose and bracket bolt.

Have a beer.

Can this post from Pinhead be moved to FAQ please. It deserves that respect.

 

[madisonr34]

If you are talking about the coolant hose that goes to the throttle body you can just bypass the throttle body. I believe the hose size is 5/16. Just run a hose straight from the head to the coolant hard line coming from T stat housing. If u need pictures let me know.

 

[BradyBunchFJ80]

Sorry for the revival of the old thread! Hey Madison... Im having the same problem. Can you post or send picsto show your fix?

 

[madisonr34]

There is a this metal coolant line that runs from the t-stat housing and over the top of the belts. It goes under the the distributor and up the other side where the fuel rail is.

Just connect a hose from the head to the circled metal coolant tube. Route the hose however you want. I went through and under the intake manifold runners.
You can leave the old hoses there unless you want to remove the throttle body.

 

[80t0ylc]

If you are talking about the coolant hose that goes to the throttle body you can just bypass the throttle body. I believe the hose size is 5/16. Just run a hose straight from the head to the coolant hard line coming from T stat housing. If u need pictures let me know.

Is this a permanent fix? I would think if you're not cooling throttle body, due to the bypass, there would be some negative effects. Like performance, fuel mileage or worse, like damage to engine components.

 

[Tools R Us]

Is this a permanent fix? I would think if you're not cooling throttle body, due to the bypass, there would be some negative effects. Like performance, fuel mileage or worse, like damage to engine components.

It's not for cooling, more about heating. We bypass some on S/C motors, figuring the S/C will make plenty of heat and we run them mainly in desert conditions. In cold/humid conditions the throttle body can freeze up, the ice can cause a restriction, power loss, throttle sticking, etc.

 

[80t0ylc]

It's not for cooling, more about heating. We bypass some on S/C motors, figuring the S/C will make plenty of heat and we run them mainly in desert conditions. In cold/humid conditions the throttle body can freeze up, the ice can cause a restriction, power loss, throttle sticking, etc.

Ok, kinda like what the carburetor heat control was on older small prop airplanes. Thanks, Tools! Good to know in case emergency bypass is necessary - in hot weather it won't be a problem. The Klondike in January might be a different story...lol

 

[madisonr34]

Is this a permanent fix? I would think if you're not cooling throttle body, due to the bypass, there would be some negative effects. Like performance, fuel mileage or worse, like damage to engine components.

I've put over 7000 miles on the bypass. Don't intend on going back to the stock setup. I live in Kalifornia so the cold isnt a problem. Just one less potential spot for a coolant leak.
But I've been in Reno and Tahoe last winter and my rig has been frozen solid over night numerous times... never had a problem.