In my continuing "never gonna learn" series, first it was the cheap, non-oem brake bleeders
??? it will take me more than ten minutes to get the wheels off and the rig on blocks, tools/fluids out and ready, etc... I am not a job shop. Bleeding is always the easy part. 80s are known to ruin the MC with the 2-hooker pump method. Happened to me twice, a buddy and Cdan as detailed here...
forum.ih8mud.com
then, I got the bright idea that you can get something for nothing and bought a TYC radiator.
Why would I do that? The promise of superior cooling. This piece of crap lasted a drive around the block.
Of course, being that amazon has free exchanges, I decided one kick in the nuts wasn't enough.
Second one leaks worse than the first. Both tanks. But, it lasted 3 blocks.
Compared to my old Koyorad, the TYC is a piece of junk. Construction is much cheaper, lighter weight and the plastic must be made of rejected tupperware.
The quality of the Koyo Rad is much higher. I have the two side-by-side and there are clear construction differences.
Because people like pictures- leaking both top and bottom
So, I got really good at replacing radiators. Just a couple tips to make this job easy (it's not difficult...anymore...)
The main thing is to just undo the center support to access the two "hard to get" nuts. They aren't hard to get.
This is a just a handful of 12,10mm bolts. (3 to remove the hood latch and hang by the cable)
You don't need to remove headlights, or even the grille. I suggest removing the grille, so you don't accidentally lean on it.
remove battery box (4 12mm bolts)
then, the two long rad mount bolts.
fan clutch and shroud come out together, then pull radiator.
*included for searches on TYC, KoyoRad, Koyo, Ron Davis radiators. I put it in my build thread, so it can be useful down the line when the summer overheating threads hit. There are many other thread to debate how great the TYC is.