- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 4,590
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
Well, it was maintenance time on our 80 - much neglected (by ih8mud standards).
Point 1, I had some intermittent starter motor growls on start - not solenoid related. So, figured not wanting a long down time, to just get a re-manufactured unit from Dan.
Point 2, I've had intermittent P0510 so figured it was a good time to also order a new TPS.
Point 3, my heater valve had failed and was previously bypassed.
Point 4, a previous coolant leak that had gone away.
So, yesterday morning what was scheduled to be a 'few' hour job, I started along with help from my 2 sons.
1) Removed starter motor, that was easy since I've had it out before.
2) Before attempting any work on the PHH, REMOVE the knock sensor or you stand a good chance of damaging it. Fortunately mine got damaged 'gently' and I was able to glue the shroud of the connector back onto the sensor with a couple of different adhesives. I did test the sensor to make sure it was still functional - just put a multimeter on AC range and if you 'tap' the sensor it will generate a few hundred millivolts - basically I'd guess it is some kind of piezo 'microphone'. At least I didn't have to feed any of Dan's dogs for this one
3) Obviously remove the block plug and drain the block.
4) Remove PHH - my god, what a royal PAIN. That is something I would NEVER want to do on the side of the road. The obvious pain was the factory installed clamps. The sardine can style was easy, I have a neat snap on radiator hose tool that makes ripping the clamp apart a 2 minute job. The BAD clamp was the factory spring clamp against the motor, that took a bunch of work to get off. Used the dremel as much as possible to cut what I could, cut the PHH as well and finally extracted the little bugger.
5) Fun and joy of removing the PHH hardline. That took some time to figure out how to rotate the top to get it to swing enough to snap off the lower bracket. Thanks much to the folk that have fought that battle before AND documented the possibility of snapping off the lower bracket tab. This took a few hours to fight with, since I first tried to just get the hose to slide over both hardline ends without snapping the lower bracket etc. So, don't both, just break that lower tab and life will be soooo easy if you ever have to revisit the PHH.
6) Now the easy job, new silicone hose, new constant tension clamps and button it all up. The original PHH (about 110k miles) still looked "ok", bit of the inner hose was damaged/corroded but likely would have been good for at least another few years.
7) Ok, that's one day shot and the the family & I head off in my car (jeep) to a demolition derby in San Jose. Good opportunity to consider the various ways to smash into/over/through the toyota engineers (and I use that term loosely) that designed the various hoses/clamps/brackets etc on our so called wonderful vehicles.
8) New day and new tasks...
9) Removed the failed (and previously bypassed - on a sand dune earlier this year) heater valve. The valve had failed catastrophically. I fortunately had a piece of gates hose that I had taken along in case of PHH failure that was long enough to bypass the valve.
10) I had seen a coolant leak earlier this year (drips on the ground) that I thought may have been PHH, then the drips 'dried' up, but as it turns out and this IS IMPORTANT TO FOLK WITH SUPERCHARGERS, it was actually from the junction/extension that runs to the relocated throttle body. When installing the S/C, the throttle body gets moved to the intake of the S/C and so the hose needs to be lengthened. TRD supplied a length of 5/16 (8mm) hose and a barbed joiner. When I removed the snout into the intake runner assembly I could see the red crust from the barbed joiner area. I figured that the hose clamp may have been a bit loose or something - well, it certainly was - it could slide off the hose!! ALSO, the hose was so perished/brittle that when I bent the hose, it shattered like a hard pipe. So, folk with S/C that have had them in for >5 years I HIGHLY recommend you replace that coolant line ASAP!!!!
11) While I had the throttle body off to replace the hose in 10) I also installed the new TPS.
12) Button everything back up on the throttle body and adjust the TPS.
13) Drain the radiator and then installed block plug and radiator petcock and then refilled with 50/50 toyota red & distilled water.
14) Install recond starter motor, hook power back up.
15) Start up the 80 and hear a whistle - ah, one hose clamp on the S/C hose assy to the intake wasn't tightened up (blame older son...). Tighten up clamp and all is happy. Run engine till temp gauge settles down at its 1/2 way point, test heater front/rear and all is good. Turn off engine and head off for a degrease & shower.
16) Type up this essay of my fun w/end and look forward to going out to dinner (wife's b'day was yesterday) and have something nice to drink (and I guess eat) to finish up the day.
cheers,
george.
Point 1, I had some intermittent starter motor growls on start - not solenoid related. So, figured not wanting a long down time, to just get a re-manufactured unit from Dan.
Point 2, I've had intermittent P0510 so figured it was a good time to also order a new TPS.
Point 3, my heater valve had failed and was previously bypassed.
Point 4, a previous coolant leak that had gone away.
So, yesterday morning what was scheduled to be a 'few' hour job, I started along with help from my 2 sons.
1) Removed starter motor, that was easy since I've had it out before.
2) Before attempting any work on the PHH, REMOVE the knock sensor or you stand a good chance of damaging it. Fortunately mine got damaged 'gently' and I was able to glue the shroud of the connector back onto the sensor with a couple of different adhesives. I did test the sensor to make sure it was still functional - just put a multimeter on AC range and if you 'tap' the sensor it will generate a few hundred millivolts - basically I'd guess it is some kind of piezo 'microphone'. At least I didn't have to feed any of Dan's dogs for this one
3) Obviously remove the block plug and drain the block.
4) Remove PHH - my god, what a royal PAIN. That is something I would NEVER want to do on the side of the road. The obvious pain was the factory installed clamps. The sardine can style was easy, I have a neat snap on radiator hose tool that makes ripping the clamp apart a 2 minute job. The BAD clamp was the factory spring clamp against the motor, that took a bunch of work to get off. Used the dremel as much as possible to cut what I could, cut the PHH as well and finally extracted the little bugger.
5) Fun and joy of removing the PHH hardline. That took some time to figure out how to rotate the top to get it to swing enough to snap off the lower bracket. Thanks much to the folk that have fought that battle before AND documented the possibility of snapping off the lower bracket tab. This took a few hours to fight with, since I first tried to just get the hose to slide over both hardline ends without snapping the lower bracket etc. So, don't both, just break that lower tab and life will be soooo easy if you ever have to revisit the PHH.
6) Now the easy job, new silicone hose, new constant tension clamps and button it all up. The original PHH (about 110k miles) still looked "ok", bit of the inner hose was damaged/corroded but likely would have been good for at least another few years.
7) Ok, that's one day shot and the the family & I head off in my car (jeep) to a demolition derby in San Jose. Good opportunity to consider the various ways to smash into/over/through the toyota engineers (and I use that term loosely) that designed the various hoses/clamps/brackets etc on our so called wonderful vehicles.
8) New day and new tasks...
9) Removed the failed (and previously bypassed - on a sand dune earlier this year) heater valve. The valve had failed catastrophically. I fortunately had a piece of gates hose that I had taken along in case of PHH failure that was long enough to bypass the valve.
10) I had seen a coolant leak earlier this year (drips on the ground) that I thought may have been PHH, then the drips 'dried' up, but as it turns out and this IS IMPORTANT TO FOLK WITH SUPERCHARGERS, it was actually from the junction/extension that runs to the relocated throttle body. When installing the S/C, the throttle body gets moved to the intake of the S/C and so the hose needs to be lengthened. TRD supplied a length of 5/16 (8mm) hose and a barbed joiner. When I removed the snout into the intake runner assembly I could see the red crust from the barbed joiner area. I figured that the hose clamp may have been a bit loose or something - well, it certainly was - it could slide off the hose!! ALSO, the hose was so perished/brittle that when I bent the hose, it shattered like a hard pipe. So, folk with S/C that have had them in for >5 years I HIGHLY recommend you replace that coolant line ASAP!!!!
11) While I had the throttle body off to replace the hose in 10) I also installed the new TPS.
12) Button everything back up on the throttle body and adjust the TPS.
13) Drain the radiator and then installed block plug and radiator petcock and then refilled with 50/50 toyota red & distilled water.
14) Install recond starter motor, hook power back up.
15) Start up the 80 and hear a whistle - ah, one hose clamp on the S/C hose assy to the intake wasn't tightened up (blame older son...). Tighten up clamp and all is happy. Run engine till temp gauge settles down at its 1/2 way point, test heater front/rear and all is good. Turn off engine and head off for a degrease & shower.
16) Type up this essay of my fun w/end and look forward to going out to dinner (wife's b'day was yesterday) and have something nice to drink (and I guess eat) to finish up the day.
cheers,
george.
