Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (3 Viewers)

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Took a hiatus. Both boys are now in college and getting back to it. Set the 4x4 labs bumper kit. Did the last two mounts in the rear. Will pretty them up by cutting excess box channel. Knowing where these are, I also began CAD (cardboard aided designdesign) to build a custom fuel tank. Initial checks show that I can fit a 45 gallon tank 10” tall that would sit flush with bottom of frame. @15 mpg, this gives me a range of about 675 miles. I will also enlarge the 60 series hatch opening. Going with a fzj80 in tank fuel pump. I may go with fzj80 fuel pump bracket/seal assembly of it fits within 10”.

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Looks like I have plenty of room for 37s which was decided. This allows me to pick rims and tires and provide PSI last bits of info for ECM/ engine wire harness. The roller tires are 30”

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Exhaust will be routed on DS. Brakelines and fuel on PS. Need to allow room for exhaust with fuel tank placement
 
surprised you don't use actual CAD :)
 
Modded up the CAD tank. Box shown is 26”Wx36”x10”H. Fits nicely with bottom of tank flush with bottom of frame. Decided to shorten width to 24” to get better clearance for exhaust routing similar to that of another build (cant recall whose). Will be doing single exhaust out the DS hanging of rear coil bucket member. This puts me at about 37 gallons which gets me a cruising range of about 560 miles at 15 mpg.

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Some more pics of proposed exhaust routing. Single out from muffler to DS

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Schematic

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Going with a fzj80 denso fuel pump. And a floatless sender from Tanks. I will be using speedhut gauges. Tanks also has a fuel pump access hatch that I will integrate.

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Ceylon…I hope you can provide some fabrication pics when you install that fuel pump access hatch…would be extremely informative for those of us considering the same installation ie…finding the exact center point and fabricating a tight seal on a rather corrugated surface of the rear deck. The hatch, looks to be the perfect length/width door for a similar stock application.
 
I want to incorporate a charcoal canister for venting but trying to avoid the complex evap nonsense with purge and vent solenoids run off the ECM. Been reading but not fully there. I plan on using the 60 factory fuel separator and run a hardline to the engine bay for a charcoal can. Not sure what to do from there. Typically, its connected to the intake but don’t want AFR to be messed up and dont want a continuous vent of the tank. Not a fan of a vented fill cap. Fuel leaks off camber. Venting to the engine bay is not safe. Reading states vent line should be run without a p-trap effect to prevent fuel liquid blocking venting. Cant see how to avoid if routed along frame and up. I suppose the OEM fuel separator prevents liquid build up. I may have to run the intake connector back down to the frame rail somewhere. Did see a thread about running the vent line connector upstream of the MAF. I would need some type of auto-timed initiation of a solenoid valve for that to work.

I like the simplicity of the BVSV to do venting. Not sure there is a place on the LS block to place one.

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I want to incorporate a charcoal canister for venting but trying to avoid the complex evap nonsense with purge and vent solenoids run off the ECM. Been reading buy not fully there. I plan on using the 60 factory fuel separator and run a hard line to the engine bay to a carbon can. Not sure what to do from there. Passive venting to the engine bay is not safe. Adding a timed vacuum switching valve may work vented to the intake but it can mess with AFRs. Seen a thread of venting upstream of MAF sensor.

Tanks Inc has a nice vent write up and suggests not having a ptrap sag on the vent line where liquid fuel can accumulate. I guess the TEQ fuel separator prevents that.

I like the idea of using an OEM BSVS to keep it mechanical, but it stays on as long as engine temps are high. Need to see if GM has a BSVS for LS block or look at a coupling to land it on the block somewhere with Toyota BSVS.

I could also try and incorporate an VSV on ignition hot or intermittent power operated by a thermal relay

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Got FJC 17” rims. Found a local race car fab shop that will build me a fuel tank. 4L65E rebuild in progress. Got the final bits tweaked to frame and rear 4x4 labs bumper. Burning it in tomorrow. Sucks welding overhead. Time to wind up some Rembrandt grinding skills. Did not like how recommended bolting on labs bumper. Drilling through frame and running larger grade bolts through sleeved dom.

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Rembrandt visited. Thinking Rustoleum self etch and flat black rattle can. Rounded the points on the end. Not adding tubing. Going to gusset the wings so they dont fold up when hit.

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Made some crush sleeves for the rear bumper attachment

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Chassis work done for the most part. Gave it a rattle rustoleum flat after scuffing lightly. Factory paint is solid. Easy to touch up down the road. Have a plan figured out for the front bumper that uses frame horn captive nuts.

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Glad to see this project is still moving along. I am doing a very similar project and have already learned a lot from your contributions!
It is my first time doing this so be aware 😁. Following a well paved path helps. Glad others have led the way. Plan on chipping at this so it keeps getting done. Excited to refresh the engine next. Do you have a build thread?
 

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