Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just for you buddy @thatcabledude :flipoff2:

Home from college for the weekend to help dad commence the frame chop. Leveled it out on the lift and added supports to keep the frame level to the ground and stiff. Took 4.7” out of the frame. Will get us down to FJ60 107.5” wheelbase.

188D13E1-0A4C-46CE-A05A-52FCBE11CF94.jpeg
74684F75-A631-4AA3-9B8C-D163287555B6.jpeg
F08150A6-EB2E-4162-A847-7F5805B4425D.jpeg
8E2D8288-B29D-40B5-9D37-3A37E472558A.jpeg
FB288D07-464F-4527-AC8D-73042FDF9399.jpeg
 
Proof of said help. It was a 2 person job. Glad to have @SipLife’s help.

DD058CC5-A6C7-4FA3-A558-B0DE651AD1B6.jpeg


E0E65D78-AF8E-4DF7-B88A-6EB54AD6B1B9.jpeg


E8CE808E-9772-4C7F-820B-31F5D2540E9C.jpeg


D2A44086-C988-46BC-B108-64DD929AFDCA.jpeg
 
So we are welding and fish plating both sides with 1/4” plate.
 
We will rosette weld the fish plate also. We will trim the rear control arm pod to hug around the fish plate on the inner frame sections. Others have only fishplated the outside frame cut seams. Taking an extra step for good measure.
 
Last edited:
Removed all but end body mounts of chassis. Cutting a seam on the welds with a die grinder and using an air hammer made quick work of it. Did some additional grinding and flap disced to smooth. Made some fish plates. Going to add more holes to each for more rosette welds in multiple places. Fish plates on both sides of each cut.

Taking my time with this step. Do it right. Need to get some weld through primer.

FFB4DECD-F557-4E25-8AFA-9A9ACD45AA91.jpeg


A9F30E49-AA6B-49EB-A7EB-40CD9F115848.jpeg


45A74D96-F991-4589-9531-CC678B37182B.jpeg
 
Ready to weld. Takes time to get the fit right. Liking it

3E86F80D-B93C-49BC-A2F1-9220C912FEE9.jpeg


A9E542B2-12A0-4DAA-9064-1F790E692CFC.jpeg
 
Ready to weld. Takes time to get the fit right. Liking it

View attachment 3117968

View attachment 3117969
Waiting for weld thru primer. Bought a new helmet. Last time I used it, auto darken did not work well. Had some dry eye. Also bought a magnetic switch ground to make sure I have a solid ground. Hard to place ground clamp on chassis. I could weld a ground tab but needed something for future work. Need a solid ground for this one. It will be moderately hot.

FA68CA1D-6BDC-41AB-9C96-881A49B2FE37.jpeg


DEE0E622-7E84-446C-9BE6-D9071F2B0D53.jpeg
 
Made some progress today. Been a busy week. One side welded (perimeter and rosettes), dressed welds with a carbide bit, flap disk, weld through primer. Other side tomorrow.

EC2FA9A4-33A9-49A7-8A72-BA10A20320EC.jpeg


81DA50A5-8CB9-42C8-BDD6-BC2CE416E27B.jpeg


6C743924-C2D5-47A9-8C19-CF585A43ED87.jpeg


4370C96F-1442-4CAE-953C-98AE4677D314.jpeg


B5391DF0-B9CB-4923-BF79-B266EEDFC935.jpeg
 
Been a while. Back at it. Mocked up the rear control arm pods. Need to heat and conform the upper areas. Otherwise fit is good. Waiting for an acetylene rosebud to come in. Going to tack bottom in place then heat and form top to contour the frame. Then weld on. Also got much awaited entire bushing kit and hardware for the 80 series. Time for some time at the press this week. Also got the complete set of 60 series body bushings. Will be installing 80 series bushings per new TSB. I did not realize there was change until someone here on Mud shared. Hope this helps others.

@js0k is bringing my 1997 80 series transfer case tomorrow I bought from a fellow mudder. We will hang a bit at the elf barn. Always good to be with friends. This will close out drive train components I need.

D3764CCD-44C7-48F9-A032-E4206C8DC435.jpeg


9FC6D9F2-FB5C-4DFC-94C8-6387761225CD.jpeg


3D6D5387-559B-4054-A312-7EE94F635851.jpeg


5BF8051E-7A39-4C04-B2F0-B2FA36DE7FDC.jpeg


C66BB410-ABB2-4CF4-9444-FC4D03BA037E.jpeg


A79A8308-F4CC-4BE8-8A08-17B77EA04372.jpeg


B8D07545-8B4D-4D7F-A8A2-B410EF062EEA.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Bushing parts. Front on left Rear on right. Future reference.

F128012E-DF38-4509-9A5A-4DCA9A5B1BD4.jpeg
 
Spoke with @Tank5 about some ideas. He had a good idea. Make relief cuts on the line shown by yellow tape so you can fold the top part along the fold line between the tape after you tack weld the bracket in place using the jig. Tack welding the bracket holds it in position and keeps the bushing eyes plumb while folding the top. I used clamps to pull the top part toward the frame. I massaged it to shape with a BFH, gently🤣. I held the top part in place with clamps and tack welded the relief cuts to hold the shape I wanted. I then removed the bracket and burned in the relief cuts on both sides. I fortified the hidden side of the relief cut with a 1/4” plate. Then repositioned the bracket and burnt it in to final position. Will need to flip the frame upside down to burn in the lower parts. I am getting better at welding. Not great. Forget welding upside down, not my thing.

I will do the other side tomorrow.

87DC7109-208E-43CB-9332-2A2EB541FA37.jpeg


13022D2F-C178-42D9-818D-3936FA4156E5.jpeg


CEA256D2-1372-484F-8DDC-94DD24303929.jpeg


5409D2B2-9AA4-4580-A0C6-8CCC56EEDB50.jpeg


3C108F2F-7C95-46B0-A3FE-9FEFE1D875B8.jpeg


19DC4923-344F-4DD4-AA3F-BABBECAFC1C7.jpeg
 
Looks like that turned out great, happy to be part of the sounding board. Good work. Reinforced with a 1/4 plate it should be plenty strong.

I understand flipping the frame to weld the bottom. I did the same on my frame and try not to weld upside down if I can avoid it.
 
All caught up! Great build, combining the 80 and 60 is an ideal combination IMO. Following along to watch it come together.
 
All caught up! Great build, combining the 80 and 60 is an ideal combination IMO. Following along to watch it come together.
Thanks so much for your advice. Made it pretty easy compared to other approaches I was contemplating. Good to kick thoughts around with folks like you. Best thing about Mud. We are all from different backgrounds and upbringing. The diversity of thought and perspective is wicked good.
 
Last edited:
Finished the other side today. Frame is ready for axles. Next is to rebuild both axles and get this to a roller. Thinking of using stock height OME springs like @fl4031003. 60 series body on 80 series chassis looks wierd with lift on 33s. Could do 35s. Need some more research. Lonestar makes a good shop pal when he is not stealing my welding gloves.

F999896C-916B-4DD0-A8D0-9852C0CA4B6B.jpeg


A5DAB201-0D2C-4F1D-BC23-015129496150.jpeg


D41BED52-9EA7-412C-AC5E-F7B2D77EF3F8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Got some Tacoma 16”steelies for the build. Found it locally.

AF5C75EB-4A07-44D0-A856-4D458A89DB15.jpeg
 
Parts coming in. Scored a good Marks Adaptor kit for the LS/80 case marriage. @cruisermatt is prepping a package for me to complete the axle rebuilds, his LS 80 series frame motor mounts, etc. Going to get a 4L65E built. Heard good things about upgrading the 4L60 to this which has a stronger sunshell/gears and 5 planetary gears in place of 4. Costs $200 more for the upgrade which is worth doing.

CFA63FD1-36AB-43EA-B358-706093A18CF4.jpeg


AB66EE50-FB48-4133-B3F3-A986DB95C980.jpeg


7DF31B13-99A6-4729-A585-9FD7A5F069B6.jpeg


9F919AA0-AC99-4DFD-B85E-AEEC40D166DC.jpeg


D76C6864-E56A-4023-8C11-E0B6B4F81153.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom