Restoring Interior Panels (1 Viewer)

[Manhattan]

Other than the dash, the panels that are in the truck are in decent shape - in that they're not cracked or missing pegs, etc. Well, the trim pieces around the door handles are rough. Those look and feel like stale rolls - and had to be replaced. The others are just scratched, dried out and faded. I want to attempt to restore them... before dropping a ton of $$$ on new replacements.

I could:
1. Clean, sand (very lightly with fine sand paper), and treat with some type of plastic/vinyl "dressing."
Or...
2. Clean, sand and paint.
3. ???

#2 seems like it'll net a better outcome.

Who's got some experience bringing these things back. And has anyone figured out which BROWN paint is a match?

 

[c2dfj45]

Other than the dash, the panels that are in the truck are in decent shape - in that they're not cracked or missing pegs, etc. Well, the trim pieces around the door handles are rough. Those look and feel like stale rolls - and had to be replaced. The others are just scratched, dried out and faded. I want to attempt to restore them... before dropping a ton of $$$ on new replacements.

I could:
1. Clean, sand (very lightly with fine sand paper), and treat with some type of plastic/vinyl "dressing."
Or...
2. Clean, sand and paint.
3. ???

#2 seems like it'll net a better outcome.

Who's got some experience bringing these things back. And has anyone figured out which BROWN paint is a match?

View attachment 2193188 View attachment 2193192

I would clean them really well then knock down any really rough areas with some light sand paper...then spray some adhesion promoter followed with some SEM interior dye/paint. GREAT stuff and lots of colors to dial it in. Paint supply shops should have a sample sheet so you can get the right color as you will have a couple of choices that will be close. Getting ready to go down the same road in the Trekker on a couple of pieces.

 

[Toast]

X2. Use a red scotch brite and get them nice and smooth. Use adhesion promoter and SEM brown interior paint. It's the best match

 

[c2dfj45]

SEM interior paint is a miracle product. Their satin black trim paint is equally as good. Just have to be careful about humidity as they will blush.

 

[xstogiex]

Also look into using a heat gun or a small flame from a distance to sort of "melt" the surface. Theres a fine line between ruining them and making them look like new, but I know I've had friends into 80's Volkswagens bring back dash panels, handles, and other trim that way.

 

[Manhattan]

Thanks guys - I'm going to order some SEM stuff.

@c2dfj45 do you remember which is the closer match - Cordovan Brown or the Bluebird Brown? They both look pretty close.

On the clear coat... I've had pretty $*@#y luck with clear from a rattle can. Most recently, I painted a set of motorcycle wheels - couple hours cleaning, scuffing, cleaning more, drying... three coats of base... netted this:

Then, following the directions (timing, coats, etc) to the T and using the same brand of paint, I cleared them... and netted this:

Essentially, the clear acted as a solvent and destroyed the paint. I stripped the wheels again, and just did 4 coats of base and skipped the clear.

I realize clear is a solvent - that's how it adheres to the top coat of base. But, it seems the conditions to get all that chemistry workout are key. I wonder if down here in GA, by the time it's warm enough to paint, the humidity is too high. My garage is as climate-controlled as I'm going to get.

@xstogiex, the heat gun does work. But, I think it's temporary. I did a couple panels on the 100. They looked great... for a couple months. I wonder if detailers use it because it's super easy and the results are amazing.

Before:

5 min. later:

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Cordovan Brown is considered the match for Land Cruisers of the same vintage - but I can't speak to the mini truck brown. I would think Toyota would have standardized but who knows.

 

[yotadude520]

When I restored the kick panels in my Ford, I cleaned them up with mineral spirits & a scotch brite pad. I didn't sand anything. I then did two coats of the SEM adhesion promoter followed up by four coats of SEM's regatta blue paint. I'm pretty happy with the results and the paint hasn't flaked off or anything.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Getting off track here but the grill on my 85 Mercedes is fiberglass filled plastic and had faded to light gray. A good scrubbing, SEM Adhesion Promoter and then SEM paint. I can't believe how well it's holding up on the exterior of the vehicle, road salt, etc. In other words SEM is good stuff.

 

[c2dfj45]

@c2dfj45 do you remember which is the closer match - Cordovan Brown or the Bluebird Brown? They both look pretty close.

Bluebird Brown is the color according to my SEM chart. Closest of the bunch. That was on my Trekker....

 

[Toast]

I’ll take a picture of my SEM brown paint and a piece of trim I did when I get home. As far as clear coating goes you gotta use legit automotive stuff... I bought the mini hvlp gun at harbor freight for doing small jobs and I’ve yielding awesome results with it. The trick is to just use one product in it and clean immediately after. I’ve only ever shot clear with this little guy and am always happy. Just be absolutely sure your work area is clean. It will kick up any dirt, hair, etc nearby and dump it onto your item.

 

[Manhattan]

@yotadude520, those blue panels in the Ford look new! Thanks for posting.
@c2dfj45 and @Toast - thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering some Bluebird (odd name for brown) Brown from SEM. Toast, definitely curious to see those pics. Thanks!

Unless you guys tell me "Oh, hell no!" I'm going to skip the clear coat. I'm not set up with a gun and just don't want to play around with rattle can clears.

 

[c2dfj45]

You won't need clear on the SEM trim stuff.

 

[yotadude520]

@yotadude520, those blue panels in the Ford look new! Thanks for posting.
@c2dfj45 and @Toast - thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering some Bluebird (odd name for brown) Brown from SEM. Toast, definitely curious to see those pics. Thanks!

Unless you guys tell me "Oh, hell no!" I'm going to skip the clear coat. I'm not set up with a gun and just don't want to play around with rattle can clears.

No problem! I'll 2nd that you don't need clear coat. I let mine dry and then hit them with some Maguire's interior polish and they looked great.

 

[c2dfj45]

I have been using an interior shop for probably 20 years...down the street from my shop. They're wizards. Well one day, I was in the back while they were working on some panel we had there and they were using SEM paints...right out of the can. That had been using SEM for all the stuff they were doing for us. Lol. I thought they had some kind of special interior paint set up or something. Nope...adhesion promoter and SEM.

We no longer take parts to them to paint

 

[Manhattan]

@c2dfj45 that’s hilarious! If SEM ever does a video/commercial, I think you just wrote it.

 

[PAToyota]

Then, following the directions (timing, coats, etc) to the T and using the same brand of paint, I cleared them... and netted this:
View attachment 2193659

Essentially, the clear acted as a solvent and destroyed the paint. I stripped the wheels again, and just did 4 coats of base and skipped the clear.

I realize clear is a solvent - that's how it adheres to the top coat of base. But, it seems the conditions to get all that chemistry workout are key. I wonder if down here in GA, by the time it's warm enough to paint, the humidity is too high. My garage is as climate-controlled as I'm going to get.

Wow! That's quite a reaction. I haven't seen anything like that except for using an incompatible base and clear. Obviously, if you use the wrong clear chemistry, it will react with the chemistry of the base coat.

 

[Cannon88]

Have @BenCC print you some new ones up.

 

[Manhattan]

Wow! That's quite a reaction. I haven't seen anything like that except for using an incompatible base and clear. Obviously, if you use the wrong clear chemistry, it will react with the chemistry of the base coat.

I was baffled. I talked with a technician at Rustoleum about it. First thing he verified was the compatibility. I gave him product/batch numbers of the base and the clear. The best he could offer was that it was because of the humidity. Oh, and a case of paint on them.

@Cannon88 I love that idea. If only I had a set of panels for him to scan... but then... yeah. Dilemma.

 

[IslandJ]

I just happen to be working on the back seat roof trim of my 85 4runner at the moment, gluing it back together.
Heres a shot of it next to my FJ60 armrest painted using Sem Cordova brown with SEM clear over it. The arm rest reads dark in the picture but the Cordova brown is definitely not a match. Id love to see what color you end up using. I have a few pieces on my 4runner that need a touch up.