Restore - paint, por15, or??

[musthave]

97 40th anniversary. Doing a body off restoration. Currently have a rolling frame. Frame has 0 rust. Trying to decide what to do so it will last another 25 years.

Wire wheel grime off and take off original coating?

Powder coat? Paint? POR15? LineX?

Not sure it will fit in the booth at powder coater I use currently.

POR15 gives great results but it has to be 100% or its actually worse because of standing water.

Anybody that’s done this have suggestions?

 

[LC4LIFE]

97 40th anniversary. Doing a body off restoration. Currently have a rolling frame. Frame has 0 rust. Trying to decide what to do so it will last another 25 years.

Wire wheel grime off and take off original coating?

Powder coat? Paint? POR15? LineX?

Not sure it will fit in the booth at powder coater I use currently.

POR15 gives great results but it has to be 100% or its actually worse because of standing water.

Anybody that’s done this have suggestions?

If I was that deep into it already, I would powder coat it. Its a bit more work to get the frame ready for powder, but I think it would be worth it. Might as well send all the arms, brackets, etc. in at same time too...

If you can fit it in the PC booth, then do a nice paint job with a catalyzed paint. Sandblast it first.

 

[retrofive]

I probably would use the POR15 chassis stuff. I could be mistaken, but seems PC once chipped moisture will seep between it and the metal and cause rust problems later. That's my thoughts at least.

 

[Red Merle]

I probably would use the POR15 chassis stuff. I could be mistaken, but seems PC once chipped moisture will seep between it and the metal and cause rust problems later. That's my thoughts at least.

Agree. POR15 cures incredibly hard, like smash it with a hammer and it's fine, hard.

 

[Red Merle]

@musthave What do you mean about the standing water?

 

[musthave]

@musthave What do you mean about the standing water?

If POR15 doesn’t have 100% coverage then the elements will slowly chip away at whatever is exposed. Then water drops accumulate there and rust forms under the POR15. Actually makes it worse than doing nothing I’ve read.

 

[LC4LIFE]

I am not sure exactly what Toyota does, but I would want some sort of sprayed, and better yet electrostatic painting if possible. Powdercoat is similar to electrostatic, but not exactly. You might be able to find someone do do electrostatic painting at your place. I don't think it has the same limitations of heat and booth size powdercoating has. I am pretty sure OEM is electrostatic. That way you do have 100% coverage, especially inside the frame. It is a tall order for sure.

 

[White Stripe]

If POR15 doesn’t have 100% coverage then the elements will slowly chip away at whatever is exposed. Then water drops accumulate there and rust forms under the POR15. Actually makes it worse than doing nothing I’ve read.

I think your getting por15 confused with powder coat. Corrosives will work their way underneath a chip in the powder coat and accelerate rust. Por 15 is just a heavy duty paint. Personally if I had a bare frame, I would have it galvanized. Some of the fj40 guys are starting to get frames galvanized. First the frame is dipped in acid to get rid of all the crap on the frame, then its dipped into the solution which gets everywhere-inside and outside. Its much better than paint or powder coat and you could either leave the frame bare galvanized or paint over the top but you would have to scuff it up first to get paint to stick. Getting the frame galvanized should cost in the realm of 400 bucks. Most uhaul trailers are galvanized and last a very long time bare without rusting.

 

[White Stripe]

Onesprung60: 1967 FJ40 Frame Off Restore

 

[Red Merle]

If POR15 doesn’t have 100% coverage then the elements will slowly chip away at whatever is exposed. Then water drops accumulate there and rust forms under the POR15. Actually makes it worse than doing nothing I’ve read.

I have never had that issue with POR15. YMMV...

 

[Golgo13]

it is really difficult to improve on the coatings there are on it originally. I'd avoid stripping to bare metal if possible.
If you can wash out the inside of the frame, there are frame coating kits available from the Toyota dealer to add a layer of protective wax/oil to the whole thing. I'm not sure if there is a closed-cell foam that could be sprayed into the frame channels that would prevent migration of water, that would be a nice added protection item.

LineX sounds great, but if there is any corrosion issue in the future, you'll never know.

 

[musthave]

Some great options. Hadn’t considered the electrostatic method. I’m taking off the few remaining items. Axles came off this morning. Calling electrostatic places. Thinking electrostatic then POr15. Then Toyota spray just for overlill. Maybe.

 

[Red Merle]

If the Toyota stuff is the same crud they sprayed on my '98 Tacoma as part of the frame recall, I would steer clear of that product. It's like the old Ziebart type rubberized undercoating and that actually did cause problems for me. It started to peel because the prep they did must not have been too awesome and then it would create pockets that salty water could get trapped behind and it rusted through the frame in 3 winters. I just use Fluid Film or chainsaw bar and chain oil now on both of my trucks and my current Taco is still rust free after 5 winters.

If I could do a frame off job, I would either remove all of the loose paint from the factory and then POR15 it or I would have it totally blasted if there was any rust and then prep using the POR15 prep solution and then POR15 and probably finish with a good chassis paint since POR15 doesn't have any UV protection and it can gray over time if the sun can hit it(it doesn't change the level of protection, it just doesn't look as pretty).

 

[thatcabledude]

If frame has zero rust as you say, clean it and hit it with some good enamel spray paint IMO.

 

[White Stripe]

Galvanizing gets inside the frame too fyi since its dipped not sprayed like paint or powdercoat. The initial acid dip removes all paint and rust. Then its rinsed then hot dipped in the galvanizing solution.

 

[goranvolvo]

Galvanizing is the way to go ,but how much $$ you want to spend , powder coating requires sandblasting so it adds to cost and it will not outlast Galvanizing if you want good but cheap protection go with por15 and top it off with some good paint
i did my LC 4 years ago with por15 and john deere black paint and it looks like new plus i m in Wisconsin

 

[MScruiser]

Sandblast then powdercoat. As long as you don’t plan on wheeling the truck, that will be the best looking, most durable, longest lasting, etc.

I’d go with 50% gloss too.

 

[musthave]

Powdercoat won’t fit the whole frame. So that’s off the table. Found a new place that foes galvanizing and they quoted my $500. Dropping it off tomorrow. They said removes all dirt, debris, rust if any, paint, everything. They said painting isn’t necessary afterwards. They warranty for 15 years.

 

[White Stripe]

Powdercoat won’t fit the whole frame. So that’s off the table. Found a new place that foes galvanizing and they quoted my $500. Dropping it off tomorrow. They said removes all dirt, debris, rust if any, paint, everything. They said painting isn’t necessary afterwards. They warranty for 15 years.

Keep in mind galvanizing will plug up tapped holes, so u may have do some thread chasing. Some install sacrificial bolts a couple threads then remove after.

 

[Red Merle]

Kinda surprised that if it only cost $500 for a one time customer to have this done that more car companies don't just have this done before they build the truck, especially for something that was initially as expensive as a Land Cruiser. That and the fact that Toyota is obviously well aware of the rust issues their frames have had for, oh say, at least the last 40 years.

I would consider a galvanized frame a much better $500 upgrade from the dealer than something like a $500 set of floor mats or running boards.