Resto work. Should I use clearcoat or just basecoat? (1 Viewer)

[Baron]

So I'm doing frame-off resto of a white (033) FJ62. I'm using PPG 2K paint (car is in sanded primer at the moment). This is not aiming for concourse level, and the cruiser will get real-world use.

The guy I got the paint from said I don't need to apply clear, as its a 4wd and solid colour, and the original did not have clear on it. Does this sound correct?

I searched all over this and the paint forums, and while people are using clear, its normally on metalics or they are going for that shiny colourfull look. I did find some references to not using clear, mainly on 40's. I also heard that, with not using clear the basecoat comes up shiny enought anyway to the point of it does not really need buffing?

Keen on input from people with a similiar base/solid colour?

 

[dbleon]

Yes I believe the original white is a single stage Enamel.

A base/clear will supposedly last longer, but I think it comes down to the quality of the paint you’re laying.

If you put down multiple coats of single stage you should have lots of room to cut and polish.

The base clear will be easier to maintain and will look better most of the time

I’m no expert but this is my understanding of it

 

[g-man]

you're using what 2k paint? enamel? polyurethane? 2k primer?

I'm pretty sure that you will need to buy a single stage type paint if you want to do this. Do an internet search on "single stage automotive paint types" or You should go in an automotive paint store and they can advise. DON'T use 2 stage base coat by itself. basecoat and clearcoat are designed to be used together. One reason why 2 stage paint is so popular is because it is easier. I mean it sticks good, runs less etc.

 

[OSS]

The original solid color paint of FJ60 was single stage paint and this type of paint isn’t just 1/2 of two stage paint. It’s a completely different formula.

To put true single stage paint into perspective, it is illegal to sell or buy or apply single stage automotive paint in California. The Air Resources Board has black listed it because of its impact on air pollution when it’s being applied and curing.

But two stage paint? They don’t care. Every shop uses it.

With all that being said, guys have painted their old cars with rattle can rust oleum and it has turned out pretty good, so just using the first stage of a two stage paint would be an upgrade from rustoleum for sure - but not as durable as a true single stage paint.
The clear coat of two stage paint is there to protect the base layer color. Without it, the paint won’t be as durable.

 

[Baron]

Its PPG. cant see any reference to single or 2stage. the tech document has no mention of later clear coats. Might need to talk to hi again.

625 Polythane. https://www.ppgcpc.com.au/images/up...25_POLYTHANE_CPC_Colour_TDS_PR_29-09-2021.pdf​

 

[diesellibrarian]

I am using a single-stage acrylic enamel to repaint my FJ62. As a true single-stage, it has UV protection built in to the base coat - something that is normally part of the clearcoat on a 2-stage paint system.

Be careful when spraying modern 2-stage polyurethane products. Many are designed to be sprayed in a proper booth while wearing a supplied air respirator. They contain isocyanates that are *very* bad for you and can cause permanent damage to your lungs. A normal paint respirator does not filter out isocyanates.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The original solid color paint of FJ60 was single stage paint and this type of paint isn’t just 1/2 of two stage paint. It’s a completely different formula.

To put true single stage paint into perspective, it is illegal to sell or buy or apply single stage automotive paint in California. The Air Resources Board has black listed it because of its impact on air pollution when it’s being applied and curing.

But two stage paint? They don’t care. Every shop uses it.

With all that being said, guys have painted their old cars with rattle can rust oleum and it has turned out pretty good, so just using the first stage of a two stage paint would be an upgrade from rustoleum for sure - but not as durable as a true single stage paint.
The clear coat of two stage paint is there to protect the base layer color. Without it, the paint won’t be as durable.

Wrong...

033 just a few months ago. Single stage no clear over.... Redding, CA

 

[OSS]

Wrong...

Wow!
I was given bum information! (From a paint shop)

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Wow!
I was given bum information! (From a paint shop)

Unless it is lead based... Single stage is allowed. Sprayed several vehicles.

Most shops only spray bc/cc because they can charge more for labor and have a lesser experienced painter apply. Shpps can actually provide a sub par initial coating and let laborers repair for less but charge a higher price.

 

[Baron]

Wow, thanks for the inspiration, that 60 look lovely, and even the wheels are great.

 

[carlosfj80]

So it sounds like single stage enamel is the way to go? In the process of rust removal and then to paint. This will be an at home job, trying to figure out how many coats of primer and paint. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[Baron]

yea. follow the TDS for the paint, most say 2-3 coats, I'm doing three. I'm painting the entire car, inside and out in dismantled pieces. (inc under it, where I put colour over rockprotection). I dont recommend doing it separated, so lesson learned. (the thing I would change is to do it panel by panel (repair/rust on the way, primer etc), but the final solid colour, either do the insides panel by panel, but re-assemble everything and paint the externals in one go.

Its a bit tricky to figure out how much paint I used for Primer, as I made many mistakes on the way. Overall I used 2.5 x 4L tins of Epoxy Primer (with prob 1/3 tin left). And 3/4 of a 4L tin of high-build primer. Thing I mainly learnt was that Epoxy Primer is a good sealer to put on as soon as you finish welding/body work, but before filler, as it prevents further rusting. Then use high-build primer on anything that needs work (filler etc)- (you need the depth to be able to work, and epoxy certainly does not give it). Te definition of 'needs work' is any panel that needs repairs or metal sanding/rust removel. The only panels I did'nt use it on where doors, where I stripped the paint chemically, so the underlying metal was perfect.

But for the solid colour coat, I've used 1 and 1/4 Tins so far, with likely another 1/2 tin on the weekend, so 2 x 4L tins. Might be a bit less, as I get wastage with the 3M PPS system, as I do only enough for one cup.