Replacing short block. What would you replace?

[desmocruiser]

Replacing short block. What would you replace? New Pics of stage 1 & 2 resto complete

Replacing the 2f short block in an 87' 60, bought it with a thrown rod. What are the items that you would replace as you put the truck back together? Definitly will replace all belts, hoses, and gaskets. What about the oil pump and those type components?

Truck has 128k and the potential replacement short block has ~140k.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[alaska60]

If you are going to have it open..... I would do it all while it is apart. rods rings bearings.....
If $ is not an issue.....do it all for piece of mind.

 

[desmocruiser]

-Is there a big difference in the quality of OEM and aftermarket gasket kits?

-Would you replace the water pump?

-Would you replace the fuel pump?

-Would you replace the Oil pump?

Thanks,

 

[desmocruiser]

Going to replace the rings, bearings, gaskets etc.

Is OEM worth the money difference or are there good aftermarket equilv?

No opinions on the oil pump, water pump, fuel pump?????????

 

[Darryl W]

I spent 3 years going through my 60. removed head had valve job done. installed h55f etc.
I didn't replace the water pump. I got to drive the truck for about 7 months before the water pump started leaking.
I would go ahead and do the water pump. fuel pump is easy to change, run it until it quits. Don't know about the oil pump
Darryl

 

[Elbert]

IF you are going through the trouble of replacing the short block I would do the fuel pump, water pump and fan clutch, plus hoses, belts....etc. Toyota makes good stuff, it is expensive at times but has good quality and lasts. Call Dan at American Toyota for OEM parts.

I would replace the oil pump and all related gaskets with toyota stuff too, beyond what you mentioned. Its very easy to get to most of that stuff when the engine is out of the vehicle... I would have the cylinder head worked and cleaned up.

 

[lucasfj60]

im currently tackeling the same project that you are tackeling. i had my block bored so i had to get pistons. but im running hastings chrommoly piston rings and clevite bearings. i got the melling oil pump also my cam looked good but i hear that they tend to go bad so im gonna run my cam for now. but ive talked to several cruiser guys and they recommend all of these parts manufactures for extreme quality over stock toyota parts. My head is currently getting done right now, and i just told the machine shop to grind the valves and replace the guides, and if anything else is worn out replace that too. Also i was told to run a stock toyota head gasket, there expensive but i hear there worth it. make sure that you have a solid transmission and transfer case. im gonna rebuild the transfer case because i could hear the bearings grinding when i was driving it. but u might as well check the t case and tranny just because if ur tearin it all apart u might as well make it to where u dont have to tear it apart again for a while. u need to kno anything else let me kno and keep me posted on ur progress

 

[desmocruiser]

Sending off to the machine shop this week. Went with Toyota complete gasket kit, as`well as the belts and hoses. Will likely source the water pump, fuel pump from Toyota as well.

Leaning towards the Aisin oil pump

ALL-FOREIGN CAR PARTS - Import & Domestic Car Parts, Import & Domestic Truck Parts, Brakes, Rotors, Distrubutors

Who/where is the best source Clevite and Hastings products for the rings and bearings?

Are there any modifications that I should do while this far in?

 

[lehiguy]

I used an after-market oil pump once, I wish I had not. The pickup tube was too long and had to be cut down in order to have proper clearance with the oil pan. It had less pressure than the stock unit had at 235K, until I shimmed the blow off valve spring. Years prior, a friend had the same issue with an after-market pump. They are junk, do not buy one. You would be better off to keep the stocker and reverse the gears inside so they contact on the opposite side. I have seen this done and it works. (Or just pop the $300, IIRC, for a new one.) If I had not been an idiot and tossed my original pump, I would have done it. I was used to domestic stuff and thought that the pump would be an easy thing and the old one was of no value. Oops.

 

[Trollhole]

I used an after-market oil pump once, I wish I had not. The pickup tube was too long and had to be cut down in order to have proper clearance with the oil pan. It had less pressure than the stock unit had at 235K, until I shimmed the blow off valve spring. Years prior, a friend had the same issue with an after-market pump. They are junk, do not buy one. You would be better off to keep the stocker and reverse the gears inside so they contact on the opposite side. I have seen this done and it works. (Or just pop the $300, IIRC, for a new one.) If I had not been an idiot and tossed my original pump, I would have done it. I was used to domestic stuff and thought that the pump would be an easy thing and the old one was of no value. Oops.

You did see what he linked too?

 

[Aseif007]

I put an Aisin oil pump into my 3FE rebuild with no problems 4 years later.

 

[desmocruiser]

I certainly don't want to skimp on such a vital part. But I found this over in the 40 section and some pretty knowledgable folks seem to like them.

There is some really poor quality aftermarket products out there, but also a few good ones, some even equal to OEM, just not many.

Any bad experiences with the Aisin aftermarket oil pump??

 

[desmocruiser]

As I am gathering parts and preping to send off to have the machine work complete, I have a choice to make:

a) Having the used block built, has slight piston scoring and will require .30 over pistons.

b) Having the original block rebuilt, have come to learn after a post mortem that it was a seized crank bearing that locked up ,not a thrown rod as the po had thought. The piston walls look great and would not require new pistons. I assume I will have to use the crank from the donor. How about the connecting rods?

My goal is to have a good original 60 with a 2f, I don't want to cut too many corners, don't want to spend needlessly either.

Which block would be the best????

Would you reuse the pushrods from either engine?

Any other advice would be appreciated?

Thanks in advance.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Bore the one block .30 over, use forged pistons, get the specs for the SBC stainless valves, deck the head, get a bit of a hotter cam, rebuild the carb and have a hot rod.

If not, then rebuild the block that does not need to be bored out. Less money spent in the end.

 

[desmocruiser]

Bore the one block .30 over, use forged pistons, get the specs for the SBC stainless valves, deck the head, get a bit of a hotter cam, rebuild the carb and have a hot rod.

I think this is the way I will go. If I can't find a REALLY good used 2f engine for a fair price.

Now where is the best place to get these parts. I have looked at the Man-a-fre pkg., looks a little pricey.

Any better alternatives for the needed rebuild parts?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Pighead got a really nice rebuild done locally, and his FJ55 runs really strong. I don't think he went hard core, just "normal" I would not go too fancy. A mild re-bore, matching pistons, good quality parts. This is a tractor motor, not a race motor, don't get too fancy and ruin it's basic robust goodness.

I would replace everything you mention while it's apart. Skimping on things like oil pump, water pump cam etc, would make no sense to me.

These motors in close to stock form, if kept cool, will run basically forever. Don't over think it.

 

[fliphkd778]

Any bad experiences with the Aisin aftermarket oil pump??

Aisin is the OEM manufacturer for 2f oil pumps.

Bore the one block .30 over, use forged pistons, get the specs for the SBC stainless valves, deck the head, get a bit of a hotter cam, rebuild the carb and have a hot rod.

I think this is the way I will go. If I can't find a REALLY good used 2f engine for a fair price.

Now where is the best place to get these parts. I have looked at the Man-a-fre pkg., looks a little pricey.

Any better alternatives for the needed rebuild parts?

As for the cam, delta cams can do a regrind on your oem and lifters for around $130, fast turnaround I hear. There is a post in the FAQ on camshafts where a member installed one. I plan on sending mine there soon.
As for other rebuild kits, I've been looking into the 2F forklift rebuild kits going on ebay, I've heard of other members using the forklift kits before. As a matter of fact, I saw a 2f on ebay today for like $300.

Here is a good thread where Fj40Jim speaks about what's involved with SBC valves.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/248052-giving-head-work-over-whats-required.html

 

[desmocruiser]

Can't believe it has been 6 months already update:

Toyota is certainly proud of the pistons and rings...

 

[desmocruiser]

Almost to the point of putting the engine back in the 60!

Engine-Finally back together using 100% OEM Toyota parts:
.20 Pistons & Rings
Cam
All Bearings
Lifters
Oil Pump
H2o Pump
Fuel Pump
Crank Pulley
Thermostat
Hoses
Belts
Gaskets
Oil Pan
Etc.

Had Jim C. rebuild the Carb and recurve the dizzy for desmog.

Still need to hang all of the accessories, I went ahead and powder coated the brackets etc

While the engine was out I couldn't resist repainting the core support and fender wells in the original OEM beige metallic and getting a good coat of primer and chassis black on the frame.

I need to stop saying while I am here I may as well go ahead and.........

But after realizing that the truck was a rust free, straight, non molested beige 60 I just couldn't resist a semi restoration!

However, I do sometimes regret no exploring the diesel conversion.

I will try to post up some pics over the weekend.

 

[desmocruiser]

Finally had a moment to post up a few pics, can't ever say complete but at least stage 1 (engine rebuild) and 2 (lift, wheels, tires and few other cosmetic improvements.