Replacing lower control arm "No. 2 Bushing" (1 Viewer)

[learning]

We are replacing the upper and lower control arms.

Upper Control Arms -- We did those with no problems.

Lower Control Arms -- We have taken the lower control arms off. But, we can't get the "No. 2 Bushings" off of the frame so that we can replace them with new ones. The "No. 1 Bushings" come off with the lower control arms, so those were no big deal. But the "No. 2 Bushings" stay on the frame. (See attachment for picture from the FSM).

We found a pipe of the correct O.D. and tried pounding on the metal sleeve that forms part of the bushing, but it won't budge. We sprayed it liberally with PB Blast, but still no luck.

Any ideas from people that have removed it before? Or from anyone else?

Thanks.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can always torch them out. Had to do that with some bushings on my 60.

Why are you having to replace both arms?

 

[spressomon]

When we completely rebuilt the front end on my '99 2-1/2 years ago I wanted to replace the same #2 lower control arm bushing. But the damn thing wouldn't budge. The next step would have been to flame them out...but then my front end specialist wasn't sure how he'd (read: affordably ) get the new bushings pressed back in.

So...given the fact there was zero play in that bushing we left well enough alone. And with over 200k hard tough miles its still tight sans play.

So unless you've got a worn bushing I'd suggest leaving it for another day.

 

[learning fj62]

I am not the poster of this thread but i am helping my father do this, We had chose to replace the lower control arms, because we were already in their doing new uppers, and decided it would be a good time. I don't know how the torching method would work due to the fact the outer side of the bushing is metal. I had never really thought about how we would go about reinstalling them, but that is a good thing to think about. Thanks for the replies.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Was something wrong with the arms?

 

[MilkmanVX]

Most bushes with the outer metal shell need to be pressed in/out... some are easy to push out without a press.

For removal without a press, take a hacksaw and cut the inner metal tubing first... then chisel out the rubber (or continue with the hacksaw). Finally, cut the outer metal tubing (try not to cut into the arm itself ). It works like a charm ...

Torching it works wonderfully too, and is quicker than the chisel and hacksaw method. Also, the new bushing should go in without issues post torching.

Goodluck...

 

[matt 105]

I pressed mine out and the new ones in with a long 1/2" (or so) bolt and 2 sockets- no cutting.
I bent over the flange on the old bush so my larger socket would better sit against the chassis.
They pressed out and in easily.
Once the old ones were out, you could see how fatigued they were.
Set the arms at ride height before tightening the bolts.

 

[learning]

Thanks for all the ideas.

Why am I replacing the LCAs? Good question. The UCA ball joints were squeeking, so we replaced those. While we were there, we figured that if the top ball joints were bad, the lowers would soon go as well, so we wanted to replace those. We could have just replaced the ball joints in the LCAs, but I (stupidly) thought it would be easier to just replace the entire LCAs (rather than having to press out the ball joints, etc.), and that way I could replace replace the bushings as well. That way, I would have all new bushings in the uppers and lowers. Obviously, I did not realize what a pain it was going to be to remove those No. 2 bushings. In retrospect, it would have been easier to just replace the ball joints. As someone said, I could leave those No. 2 bushings in there and move on. But, now that everything is apart, I hate to put it all back together to one day have to do it again. So, I am leaning toward trying to get them out.

Thanks to everyone for their ideas. We will try some of them over the next few day.

 

[matt 105]

I used a 1/2" x 9" bolt, but some threaded rod would do. The sockets were 3/4 drive - 41mm and 35mm with a 54mm OD and 46mm OD.
You just need to destroy the flanged end of the old bush (or use a bigger socket) but Im sure you have a new bush ready to fit.
This job really was not a big deal - in my driveway.
The FSM only gives it 1 picture, and says "using SST (which looks like 2 sockets and a bolt) , remove bush"
Every time your front suspension moves, that bush twists.
As I said, mine were buggered. I think they are designed to last as long as the ball joint.

 

[learning]

Mission accomplished! Thanks again to everyone for their advice.

We opted for the "make something like the SST" approach. We could not find sockets of the correct OD and ID, so we built our own contraption. Basically, we built a box that acted as the big socket (to go around the flange end of the bushing), a pipe that had roughly the correct OD (to push on the back side of the bushing), and a long bolt.

In the picture, we were using the threaded end of a pipe. Although the threaded end of the pipe had the right diameter, it did not seat well against the end of the outer metal sleeve of the bushing. So, we cut the pipe in the middle (which was a little too thick), and ground it down to the correct diameter. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze.

Don't laugh at the welds -- we are new to welding and had no shielding gas.

 

[APKhaos]

Mission accomplished! Thanks again to everyone for their advice.

We opted for the "make something like the SST" approach.

Love it! Some of my 'special tools' don't rate a pic, believe me!
How did you go with pressing in the new bushing? Any special trickery required?

 

[learning]

Love it! Some of my 'special tools' don't rate a pic, believe me!
How did you go with pressing in the new bushing? Any special trickery required?

APKhaos -- we just reversed the tool (so that the large end was on the back side, and the pipe end was pushing on the front of the bushing -- the end with the flange). It was a breeze. Really, once we got the diameter of the pipe just right, pressing the old bushings out and the new bushings in took a total of about 5 minutes. Having the "right" tools, whether purchased or home made, really makes all the difference!

 

[uzj100]

How hard is to remove the No. 1 Bushing? I need to travel and don't want to mess with No. 2 bushing right now.

 

[saucebox]

How hard is to remove the No. 1 Bushing? I need to travel and don't want to mess with No. 2 bushing right now.

No 1 is killing me right now. No 2 (the frame-mounted one) was easy as pie. Length of all thread, a few nuts and washers, and some pieces from a rented ball joint press kit. 20 minutes total to pop out old ones and install new ones, once you've got the assorted pieces placed.

A 35mm impact socket from one of the local auto parts places (don't remember which) is the same OD as the bushings. Made pressing out really easy.

Edit: Hah, @matt 105 described the process already. Instead of destroying the flanged end though, we used a large OD piece from the ball joint press kit.

 

[uzj100]

My number 1 bushing looks super loose and does not sit flush. May need a new lower control arm.

 

[Roosevelt T]

I am having a ton of trouble with this, if its not one thing its another.

I built the tool like @learning above, but without welding. I used some pipe and assorted pieces from a ball joint press kit. However as he noted, that galvanized steel threaded end doesnt apply even pressure. I dont have a way to cut it and then grind down the flat part to the correct diameter.

So I figured I'd try the 35mm socket method like @saucebox. However a 35mm 1/2" socket doesnt fit through the 1/2" rod (duh on my part), and I cant seem to find a 3/4" 35mm socket locally, so I would have to order it. Not the end of the world, but I want this thing done at this point!


Any other solutions I have not thought of? Anyone take a sawzall and heat to this thing? That kinda scares me to be honest, but I am not sure what the hell else to do.

 

[saucebox]

I used a sawzall on the No. 1 bushings (the arm-mounted ones, if I don’t have the numbers right).

I’m not 100% certain of the rod I used, but I think it was 3/8. It just did clear the 35mm socket (like yours, also 1/2”).

 

[Kofoed]

Even in SoCal, my No. 2 was corroded in place. I need to drill a bunch of hole thru the rubber bush to create enough remove to get a sawsall blade of the shell. I cut two almost-thru-the-shell grooves down teh shell, then took a chisel and tapped along the two grooves and folded the shell back. I didn't damage the frame, and was able to salvage one shell to use as a punch to help remove the other side.

Upon close inspection, the bushing had a crack in it.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I have nightmares about the No1 bushing.

 

[saucebox]

I have nightmares about the No1 bushing.

Same. No matter what the cost, never again.