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Is your control arm cracked?I added two additional spacers and it fit in easily.
View attachment 3475862
View attachment 3475863
That was and is my concern! How many, is to many spacers.I’m not sure that number of spacers is optimal for the integrity of that bushing to mount seating. It leaves more bushing outside the mount which might be a stress point for failure of the mount. Time will tell.
I didn’t see any. That grey is anti seize.
Correct!I've been trying to wrap my head around the spacer issue - the above picture seems to clarify:
There is no spacer under the left (front?) of the bushing, so it protrudes too far through the frame for the LCA to clear it. By adding spacers the bushing can be less deeply seated, so it protrudes out the back less, and a LCA with a slightly smaller spread can be mounted.
Correct?
A number of us have done the same thing. You’ll be fine.2003 LX470 here.
Just finished up replacing upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints. Toyota bushings and 555 ball joints. I understand why we torque the control arm bushings with the rig on the ground. I tried a different approach and wanted to see if anybody thinks it was foolish.
Part of the issue with torquing with the rig on the ground is accessing the number two LCA bolt behind the torsion bar. To overcome this, I left the torsion bar disconnected, put my floor jack under the lower control arm, and jacked up the spindle until the center of the CV was 19 3/4 in from the wheel arch. At this point I aligned my paint pen marks on the upper control arm bolts, and torqued everything to spec. Then I lowered the spindle back to full droop and attached the torsion bar and cranked it to the spot I measured before removal.
I'm curious to hear thoughts about if my bushings could be stressed in some weird way I'm not thinking about right now? I've only done the passenger side, will be doing the driver's side in a couple weeks and want to do it a different way if there's a potential problem with my first method.