Thanks guys. And I paid a shop to do the #1 bushing and the ball joints. Money well spent.
Replacing lower control arm "No. 2 Bushing"
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Kofoed
SILVER Star
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Have you tried doing the No1 bushing? I had the control arm off, working on the bench... the things just do not want to come out. I ended up cutting it up with a sawzall and still had to pound the thing out with an air chisel. Dealerships won't replace the bushing because it takes too much effort to get it out.
The replacement OEM LCA with the bushing installed is around $350 if I recall.
Kofoed
SILVER Star
I've done the No. 1 and 2 twice (I remove and replaced all four at once.) I drilled around the bolt sleeve, to remove all the rubber. Then it was easy access with a sawsall. If you make two cuts, lengthwise, about 1/4" apart that strip comes out and the shell is really easy to remove after that. The second time I chucked up a 1 3/8" hole saw IIRC in the drill press and that made short work of the other side.
if you have a press, you can press out the cylindrical sleeve inside the rubber without having to drill. I found that takes less time. Sometimes you will be able to press out some of the rubber with it. leaving the shell, which I cut out with a hack saw with two lengthwise cuts, followed by hammering with a chisel. Make sure to use lots of lubrication ( i used WD 40).
So if I want to refresh all of the lower control arm bushings, all I need to buy is the whole arm (48640-60010, and 48620-60010, then 2 of the 48655-60010 bushings?) Yes, I know I can just buy 555 ball joints and save a little money. But the whole arm comes with one bushing (front) but does not come with 48655-60010
Yes, it's a sht design. The 48655-60010 bushing is in the frame, not in the control arm. I'd also buy new bolts and nuts in case you have to cut them. And there are two-two spacers as well 90560-49001. Also don't forget new castle nuts and cotter pins for the lower ball joints (those doesn't come with the control arm assy)
90171-18003 and 90252-04009
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I have a leaky lower ball joint and I’m still trying to decide whether I should replace my entire control arms or just do the new ball joints and new bushings. It seems either way I will have to get the #2 lower bushing out of the frame. Is that correct?
Yes, correct. I’d get the new LCA, it’s not that expensive (in land cruiser world at least)
That’s what I’m leaning towards so that I get the OEM ball joints. And adding up the cost of the LBJs and the bushings it’s not too much more expensive to just get the entire OEM control arms. Considering they lasted 190k miles before they went out, not a bad investment. Does the OEM LCA come with a replacement bushing no. 2?
Here's the thread start page @JunkCrzr89 was a big help with the idea to remove it. I just happened to have some sockets that were the exact size I needed to press out the old bushings.
forum.ih8mud.com
Front Lower Control Arm Romoval/Replacement
I’m not aware of a how-to thread, but it may exist. The lower frame bushing is easy to do with a 1/2” threaded rod (>8” long), some big washers, couple of nuts, and a couple of sockets. The bushings in the control arms are a pain in the ass, though. Multiple methods to get them out. I heated...
forum.ih8mud.com
Did this job this weekend (replaced both control arms and #2 bushings). Ill preface this with my truck isn't an east coast rust bucket, but does have some corrosion on the undercarriage. I got the drivers side out with the socket/bolt puller setup, the passenger side however was a major PITA. I broke 2 bolts, and stripped some all thread with just hand tools. Used some heat, PB blaster, etc. Finally just ended up using air hammer to get it out by starting with the side that has the spacer. I think the difficulty of getting the passenger side one out vs the driver was based purely on that A/C drip line making the passenger side a lot more "stuck" in there.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Around $170 total from Cruiser Outfitters to refresh one LCA, which includes new 555 LBJ and new OEM Toyota bushings for the LCA and frame. Cost for a new OEM Toyota LCA is $350 + $65 for frame bushing = $415. And no, a new LCA does not come with the frame bushing (no. 2), so you have to buy that bad boy regardless of which path you choose.
$170 vs $415 was a no-brainer for me, but to each their own.
A significant part of my decision was time and work space—I street park in DC so I have to drive 3.5 hrs to my dad’s place and his big ol’ garage for any significant work. So if, due to my noob mechanic skills and my truck’s corrosion, I cant get a bushing or bj in/out, I don’t want to have a brick on jack stands sitting in one of my dad’s garage bays. I’m already taking one up with a bass boat so I don’t want to wear out my welcome!
I also factor in OEM bjs and saving money for the DIY. Mud and YouTube have definitely been great resources.
Yes, that AC drip also caused my frame passenger sway bar bracket to shear off the frame on the same trip that my ball joint and tie rod boots sprung leaks. Bootleg design.
I’m going through the diagrams and trying to figure out all the bolts I’ll need because I’ve got some new carbide tipped sawzall blades on the way if I have to cut them out. Going to go ahead and do the front UCAs, too. All this time on Mud and my wife must think I have an online girlfriend LOL.
I had a bad lower ball joint, so I bought a Beck Arnley LCA form Rock auto for about $100. Beck Arnley stuff is almost always OEM parts in a different box. This thing looked absolutely identical to the one I took off, minus the bad ball joint of course.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Yup, I think I managed to get the parts from autonation in tempe for cheaper too (minus the 555's). I ended up chiseling and cutting out the #1 bushings and the #2's managed to come out pretty easily with my rigged set up. The trick is to get some grade 8 FINE threaded rod from mcmaster... and then get creative with the the cups. Welding stacks of washers together works surprisingly well.
Those are notorious for failing. I wouldn't suggest anyone run those.
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